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Old 08-21-2009, 04:25 PM   #21
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the famous 5-cylinder, 14 sec run I made was at a official track weight (with driver) of 3649 lbs. That's me, toolboxes, jack, spare tire, extra helmets in the back, etc. Car has power EVERYTHING. windows, locks, tilt, cruise, a/c, power steering, power seats, and weight was actually added pretty far over stock. What is this desire of yours to shave weight rather than make power?

I know she'll run sub 12 now, with all 6 firing, and tossing the loose goodies out.
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Old 08-21-2009, 04:36 PM   #22
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I know she'll run sub 12 now, with all 6 firing, and tossing the loose goodies out.
Go run it. When you get back?
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Old 08-21-2009, 06:06 PM   #23
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Obviously this appeals to those of us without forced induction. My desire to "shave weight" is practical.

I am not looking to reduce my weight "rather than make power". I am simply trying to help that power drive less weight.

Again to clarify, I can easy slap a turbo granted the funds were available. Or merely add a shot of NOS as a quick option. Yet I am trying to build a full "ALL MOTOR" project.

So tell me who has the quickest time all motor in a N-body? I can assure you weight reduction was listed on the build. Then once I hit that mark I will then utilize the nitrous everyone is fond of.

Only issue with my build is I began the project to see boost. Then personal matters changed in my life and I had to get the car back on the road quick. But now that I have my GTZ I can continue the efforts of all motor or boost. But I am extremely curious to see what higher compression pistons, bigger cams (HG2), and a good tune will do.

Just a thought if I decide to finish this project or just stop all together and refrain from spending money on the Alero as many have advised me.

So guys simple question.....is it worthless to build an All Motor Naturally Aspirated engine in a N-body due to weight?
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Old 08-21-2009, 06:13 PM   #24
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So guys simple question.....is it worthless to build an All Motor Naturally Aspirated engine in a N-body due to weight?

I think it would be a cool wow factor like i ran xx.xx all motor but if you want a fast n-body you deff need some sort of boost or a large shot of nitrous.
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Old 08-21-2009, 06:46 PM   #25
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N/A = Not Acceptable

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Or merely add a shot of NOS as a quick option.
NAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHS
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Old 08-21-2009, 08:23 PM   #26
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it depens on how extreme you want to go like bj said, you can always start sectioning out pieces of metal thats not critical to the overall structural integrity of the car. As for the issue of the trunk being heavy, consider some kind of a custom job, or just remove it on track days.
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Old 08-21-2009, 09:16 PM   #27
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lol remove the trunk and create a pocket that would slow you down?? Whats his time in the track anywayz?
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Old 08-21-2009, 09:30 PM   #28
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lol remove the trunk and create a pocket that would slow you down?? Whats his time in the track anywayz?

No idea. And I have no idea about the aleros aerodynamics, but I did not consider that.
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Old 08-22-2009, 12:29 AM   #29
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N/A = Not Acceptable

Let us know when you ge that turbo tuned right

There's nothing wrong with n/a and it is true a fast street car can have a full interior and still be fast.

My goal with the engine rebuild is in the 13's which personally I think is very doable. The car runs 14.53 and (14.69 on youtube) with full interior, no jack or spare, and 3/8 tank of gas
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Old 08-22-2009, 06:30 AM   #30
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As for the issue of the trunk being heavy, consider some kind of a custom job
custom job = remove trunk lid, fill trunk with styrofoam, shave to look like trunk, coat with light film of bondo LOL
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Go run it. When you get back?
Not till late october, and even then I have a few things to do before she's ready to run the track again, like the 3250 stall TC, and a few surprises with the fuel system. Parts cost money and money takes time, on my budget.
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Old 08-22-2009, 12:07 PM   #31
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I have read smaller diameter wheels (15s) are not only lighter, but provide less reciprocating mass than a bigger wheel. While for handling, a slight increase in diameter will help, for the quarter mile, smaller diameter wheels are better.
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Old 08-22-2009, 12:15 PM   #32
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Quote:
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I have read smaller diameter wheels (15s) are not only lighter, but provide less reciprocating mass than a bigger wheel. While for handling, a slight increase in diameter will help, for the quarter mile, smaller diameter wheels are better.
this is correct. smaller sidewalls are better for handling, but smaller wheels are better for acceleration.
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Old 08-22-2009, 01:06 PM   #33
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And they dont nag, or get preggers. WIn win.

or hit you with a car.

Right Alerodrime?
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Old 08-23-2009, 12:47 AM   #34
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Let us know when you ge that turbo tuned right
Oh I will. I'll be tuning tomorrow and likely racing this week.
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Old 08-23-2009, 03:24 AM   #35
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swiss cheese all you inner interior metal panels then cover them with your interior peices. lol. Wouldnt reconend it but my buddy did it on his teg and there aint no one laughing at the amount of pwnage that thing distributes.
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Old 08-23-2009, 04:15 AM   #36
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If that's what you dictate is a "true" street car, fine. Removing the carpet is for true "race" cars maximizing their power to weight ratio. I would never do it but a lot of the old muscle cars running really low times are doing all the weight reduction they can get... I didn't know they were ricers.[/quote]

did i mention muscle cars being ricers? NO! its an alero not a track car or a muscle car , but removing ur carpet etc etc on a daily driven car isnt goin to make a huge difference, im more impressed by a car with every option and all the goodies runnin fast like bj's then a some car that u cant even use the AC on
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Old 08-23-2009, 02:50 PM   #37
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Quote:
99-Alero: did i mention muscle cars being ricers? NO! its an alero not a track car or a muscle car , but removing ur carpet etc etc on a daily driven car isnt goin to make a huge difference, im more impressed by a car with every option and all the goodies runnin fast like bj's then a some car that u cant even use the AC on

Whether it be a big time muscle car or a tuner (which you called a ricer), 100 lbs of weight reduction is .10 seconds on the quarter mile. So the fact that its an Alero, and not a corvette, is no excuse to avoid weight reduction if you want to get good track times.
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Old 08-23-2009, 02:59 PM   #38
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Is there a weight difference btwn the 2 door and 4 door aleros?
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Old 08-23-2009, 03:26 PM   #39
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Is there a weight difference btwn the 2 door and 4 door aleros?

ya the sedans are like 40-50lbs heavier
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Old 08-23-2009, 04:43 PM   #40
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difference between tuner and ricer: ricers tend to have more invested in looks, and not as much in performance. Even if you do the same to an American car....you can call it a show car, but if you brag about it being fast because you have a spoiler and some decals, you're a ricer. Weight reduction is merely one aspect of tuning.
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