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Old 12-14-2008, 12:25 AM   #1
whiterider00
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installing header

looking into getting the pacesetter header. i have the funds for the header, but not so much for paying someone to install it. i was wondering if anyone has done it themself and if theres any big issues with it. also, i dont have a welder, and planned on clamping the extension to my stock pipe. i assume its the same size pipe, or am i wrong? everywhere i read about them says it could attach right to factory exhaust. id really like to just have to buy a $2 clamp instead of paying who knows what to have it welded. feedback would be appreciated. thanks.
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Old 12-14-2008, 12:49 AM   #2
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fun.

you get to hacksaw off the downpipe at the right spot so that you can clamp the new downpipe to the stock pipe. the pacesetter's downpipe diameter is slightly bigger than the stock pipe so you'll need an adapter too. you get to extend the wires on your O2 sensor so it threads into the farther away location that the header has.

other than that you should be able to do it. air tools make things a lot easier... and welding is better..
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Old 12-14-2008, 09:49 AM   #3
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I just did my header on Thursday.

tools needed:
jack
4 jack stands (get the car as high as you can)
ratcheting socket wrench (with lots of extensions)
10mm socket (for the heat shield)
(IIRC) 9/16 socket (for the 10 header bolts)
hack saw (cutting torch is better, sawzall is best)
22mm crescent wrench (for the sensor on the header)
a handful of zipties (preferably black)
Liquid Wrench (or any prefered brand of penetrating oil)
the appropriate sized adapters and clamps

*****before you do any work, make sure you have the proper size adapter (or another car to make runs to the parts store*****

step 1: get the car into the spot you plan on working on it...and let the engine cool for about an hour (if you work bare-handed). Give it about 10 minutes if you have gloves.

step 2: jack the car up onto jack stands. This can be done while car is cooling.

step 3: when car is done cooling, take the heat shield off the header. (3 bolts) Discard if you like.

step 4: break the lock on all 10 header nuts. once they are all unlocked, then you can remove them. Also unplug the sensor from the header. (there is a clip on its wire, just unclip it)

step 5: this is tricky...get under the car and unscrew the 3 bolts connecting the header to the downpipe. use of Liquid Wrench is almost required here. May also need a scond person on top to make sure the bolts don't just spin. This would require a 5/8 cresent wrench. Take th header out from the top. Be careful because it is a tight fit, and you may rip the firewall fabric.

step 6: get your hacksaw (or whatever cutting tool you have) and cut off the stock downpipe. remember, the header-dowpipe assembly is about the same size stock as it is from pacesetter, so cut it nearly flush so you have room for your adapter.

step 7: Take the sensor from the old header, and put it in the new header (22mm crescent wrench). Then put in your new header and new gasket. this is also the time to giggle and stuff when you compare the openings on the old gasket to the new one. Make sure all the bolts are super tight, but do not strip them.

step 8: attach the downpipe to the header using the nuts, bolts, washers and springs that came with the new header. This is pretty tricky because the spring is a PITA. The new header should also have a diagram with it to show you the order of the washers an springs. This step also requires 2 people, just to make sure the bolts don't spin. (and for extra eyes, in case you drop the nuts, springs or washers) Don't make them tight yet.

step 9: attach the adapter to the downpipe and to the exhaust pipe, and then clamp them tight. I forget the size socket on the clamps, but if you got a full set of sockets, you have it.

step 10: tighten the header-to-downpipe bolts.

step 11: plug the wires for the sensor back together over the header. Use the zip ties to keep the wire up off the header. (I sort of had to make a chain, and hooked them onto the clips that were already in the firewall)

step 12: bring the car down off the jack stands. go from the rear first. You can get both rear jack stands out at once by jacking it up from the middle. Then you have to do the fronts one at a time from the sides.

once the jack stands are out and the car is down, you are done!

tips: when removing the old header, you may have to bend the oil dipstick tube, and unplug the air hose, just to give you clearance. just remember to plug the hose back in and do not bend the tube so much.
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holy crap, i just farted at work and the whole office stinks!!!!
RIP to my Alero @ 112000 miles. COD: thrown rod. TOD: 430pm, Dec19, 2011.
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Old 12-14-2008, 11:06 AM   #4
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that doesnt sound all that bad. few hours and it shud be done. couple questions...i know ion mentioned it, but will i definately have to extend the wires for the sensor? and how long did it take you albino?
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Old 12-14-2008, 11:18 AM   #5
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it took me 7 hours to overhaul my whole exhaust, but just the header should be about 2 hours if you have the right adapters. and you don't need to extend the wires, but it's not a bad idea to do. I untied some of the knots of wires next to the IDI cover, and made some slack, then tied the sensor wire up to keep it off the exhaust.
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holy crap, i just farted at work and the whole office stinks!!!!
RIP to my Alero @ 112000 miles. COD: thrown rod. TOD: 430pm, Dec19, 2011.
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Old 12-14-2008, 02:16 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlbinoMonkeyRat View Post
I just did my header on Thursday.

tools needed:
jack
4 jack stands (get the car as high as you can)
ratcheting socket wrench (with lots of extensions)
10mm socket (for the heat shield)
(IIRC) 9/16 socket (for the 10 header bolts)
hack saw (cutting torch is better, sawzall is best)
22mm crescent wrench (for the sensor on the header)
a handful of zipties (preferably black)
Liquid Wrench (or any prefered brand of penetrating oil)
the appropriate sized adapters and clamps

*****before you do any work, make sure you have the proper size adapter (or another car to make runs to the parts store*****

step 1: get the car into the spot you plan on working on it...and let the engine cool for about an hour (if you work bare-handed). Give it about 10 minutes if you have gloves.

step 2: jack the car up onto jack stands. This can be done while car is cooling.

step 3: when car is done cooling, take the heat shield off the header. (3 bolts) Discard if you like.

step 4: break the lock on all 10 header nuts. once they are all unlocked, then you can remove them. Also unplug the sensor from the header. (there is a clip on its wire, just unclip it)

step 5: this is tricky...get under the car and unscrew the 3 bolts connecting the header to the downpipe. use of Liquid Wrench is almost required here. May also need a scond person on top to make sure the bolts don't just spin. This would require a 5/8 cresent wrench. Take th header out from the top. Be careful because it is a tight fit, and you may rip the firewall fabric.

step 6: get your hacksaw (or whatever cutting tool you have) and cut off the stock downpipe. remember, the header-dowpipe assembly is about the same size stock as it is from pacesetter, so cut it nearly flush so you have room for your adapter.

step 7: Take the sensor from the old header, and put it in the new header (22mm crescent wrench). Then put in your new header and new gasket. this is also the time to giggle and stuff when you compare the openings on the old gasket to the new one. Make sure all the bolts are super tight, but do not strip them.

step 8: attach the downpipe to the header using the nuts, bolts, washers and springs that came with the new header. This is pretty tricky because the spring is a PITA. The new header should also have a diagram with it to show you the order of the washers an springs. This step also requires 2 people, just to make sure the bolts don't spin. (and for extra eyes, in case you drop the nuts, springs or washers) Don't make them tight yet.

step 9: attach the adapter to the downpipe and to the exhaust pipe, and then clamp them tight. I forget the size socket on the clamps, but if you got a full set of sockets, you have it.

step 10: tighten the header-to-downpipe bolts.

step 11: plug the wires for the sensor back together over the header. Use the zip ties to keep the wire up off the header. (I sort of had to make a chain, and hooked them onto the clips that were already in the firewall)

step 12: bring the car down off the jack stands. go from the rear first. You can get both rear jack stands out at once by jacking it up from the middle. Then you have to do the fronts one at a time from the sides.

once the jack stands are out and the car is down, you are done!

tips: when removing the old header, you may have to bend the oil dipstick tube, and unplug the air hose, just to give you clearance. just remember to plug the hose back in and do not bend the tube so much.

This would be pretty helpful in the How-To Archive & FAQ for other people who want to do this in the future.
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Old 12-14-2008, 03:50 PM   #7
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Thanks. I'll C&P it over there.
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Originally Posted by black View Post
holy crap, i just farted at work and the whole office stinks!!!!
RIP to my Alero @ 112000 miles. COD: thrown rod. TOD: 430pm, Dec19, 2011.
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Old 12-14-2008, 06:48 PM   #8
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thanks for all the info, should help a lot. how much power u think you gained from it? was it noticable, or not make much of a difference?
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Old 12-14-2008, 09:16 PM   #9
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Worth it to go have it welded?
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Old 12-14-2008, 10:01 PM   #10
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i was thinking the same thing. i know it wouldnt cost a lot to have like 1 seam welded, but if i can get away with just clamping it, then i will.
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Old 12-15-2008, 09:47 AM   #11
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I don't know how much power it gave me, but it is very noticeable. my 0-60 is definitely a shorter distance.

and it is very worth it to get welded. it will ensure you that there isn't a leak. leaky exhaust isn't a HUGE issue on NA engines, but it will eat up your mileage, depending on the size of the leak. When I was running straight pipe (stock header), I was getting 120 miles to the tank, granny driving, and 80 miles hot-rodding it. You need to keep the back-pressure.
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holy crap, i just farted at work and the whole office stinks!!!!
RIP to my Alero @ 112000 miles. COD: thrown rod. TOD: 430pm, Dec19, 2011.
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Old 12-15-2008, 02:00 PM   #12
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alright, ill look into going somewhere or finding someone with a welder. thanks for all the info, ill post something when i get it and get it installed.
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Old 12-15-2008, 02:13 PM   #13
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I went to my local custom exhaust place and they estimated about $100 to install a header.
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Old 12-15-2008, 02:57 PM   #14
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sounds pretty fair. since most places charge 60-90 dollars per hour for labor.
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holy crap, i just farted at work and the whole office stinks!!!!
RIP to my Alero @ 112000 miles. COD: thrown rod. TOD: 430pm, Dec19, 2011.
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Old 12-15-2008, 06:09 PM   #15
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probly be around that price here too...which is why im going to do as much as possible myself. i hate paying people to do something that i could do myself.
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Old 12-15-2008, 06:13 PM   #16
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I wouldn't work under jack stands!!!
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Old 12-15-2008, 06:59 PM   #17
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is it the safty issue or the pita issue Lonnie?
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Old 12-15-2008, 08:23 PM   #18
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Quote:
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I wouldn't work under jack stands!!!
Jack stands are perfectly fine if you place them in the right spot. I wouldn't work on a car supported only by a jack.
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holy crap, i just farted at work and the whole office stinks!!!!
RIP to my Alero @ 112000 miles. COD: thrown rod. TOD: 430pm, Dec19, 2011.
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Old 12-15-2008, 09:56 PM   #19
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think i would have enough room with it only lifted up in the front? only have one pair of stands.
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Old 12-16-2008, 12:11 AM   #20
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the exhaust system is composed of header, cat, catback, muffler and piping?

the piping should be 2.5-3" for a non turbo or s/c?
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