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Old 09-08-2010, 08:35 PM   #1
[ion] C2
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The head gasket slayer!

In case anyone is interested, I made another gasket leak coolant into my engine.

First build on the engine when everything was revamped (forged, all new gaskets etc.) was with a Fel-Pro gasket and Fel-Pro bolts torqued to stock spec (something like 40 lb-ft). After 5,000 miles of moderate boost (10 psi), the gasket leaked coolant into cylinder one severely after some tuning runs @ 14 psi from the Garrett T3 50 trim .48/.42 turbocharger (baby).

Replaced that head gasket with a factory GM gasket along with ARP head studs torqued to 75 lb-ft (but left the 2 small studs near cylinder 1 @ 40 lb-ft, my mistake). After 10,000 miles of moderate boost from the same turbo and then 18 psi from the GT3076R, it finally became significantly noticeable over the course of the past 6 months that the head gasket was leaking into cylinder 1. The car has been having odd vibration/stumbling upon startup, and definite cooling system oddities and slight overheating even before ASS. Even quite a bit before ASS. I remember me leaking coolant from hose connections significantly more when I went under high throttle since the compression in cylinder 1 was leaking into the cooling system. So this has been going on for a while, slowly getting worse and worse. What's funny is I beat a Corvette last week, on a leaking head gasket.

This time I ordered a Cometic. I'm going to drop off the head to D&S Engine Specialists to ensure the head is perfectly flat and the roughness specification is satisfactory for the new head gasket. I will also torque every nut/stud to 85 or 90 lb-ft.

From j-body.org, replies to a similar post I made:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boosted2point4
my felpro leaked at 14lbs too... cometic with arp studs tq'd to 85lbs held 25psi of gt35r fury

im pretty sure i tq'd the small ones to the same 85ft lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by WHITECAVY
So did i.
Quote:
Originally Posted by john317(AKA Gary the Old guy)
As did I.
So once this thing is back together, the engine will finally be rock solid and I won't have to worry about boost pressure anymore. And then I'll finish my suspension stuff and head out to the Cherohala Skyway and Tail of the Dragon for 60 miles of mountainous twisty road with beautiful landscapes. Oh, and go to the track and run some times.

The beginning.


Yummy stuff on the timing chain cover. Always seems to collect there when a head gasket goes.


The camshaft sprockets and chain still had the markings I put on it last time the gasket blew, ha.


Time to take off the turbo then head.






Similar damage as the Fel-Pro before.


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Old 09-08-2010, 09:22 PM   #2
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and THIS is the primary reason I won't touch engine mods. the car spends as much time, down, as it does up.

not worth the money/effort, if its not reliable.
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Old 09-08-2010, 09:41 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [ion] C2 View Post
In case anyone is interested, I made another gasket leak coolant into my engine.

First build on the engine when everything was revamped (forged, all new gaskets etc.) was with a Fel-Pro gasket and Fel-Pro bolts torqued to stock spec (something like 40 lb-ft). After 5,000 miles of moderate boost (10 psi), the gasket leaked coolant into cylinder one severely after some tuning runs @ 14 psi from the Garrett T3 50 trim .48/.42 turbocharger (baby).

Replaced that head gasket with a factory GM gasket along with ARP head studs torqued to 75 lb-ft (but left the 2 small studs near cylinder 1 @ 40 lb-ft, my mistake). After 10,000 miles of moderate boost from the same turbo and then 18 psi from the GT3076R, it finally became significantly noticeable over the course of the past 6 months that the head gasket was leaking into cylinder 1. The car has been having odd vibration/stumbling upon startup, and definite cooling system oddities and slight overheating even before ASS. Even quite a bit before ASS. I remember me leaking coolant from hose connections significantly more when I went under high throttle since the compression in cylinder 1 was leaking into the cooling system. So this has been going on for a while, slowly getting worse and worse. What's funny is I beat a Corvette last week, on a leaking head gasket.

This time I ordered a Cometic. I'm going to drop off the head to D&S Engine Specialists to ensure the head is perfectly flat and the roughness specification is satisfactory for the new head gasket. I will also torque every nut/stud to 85 or 90 lb-ft.

So once this thing is back together, the engine will finally be rock solid and I won't have to worry about boost pressure anymore. And then I'll finish my suspension stuff and head out to the Cherohala Skyway and Tail of the Dragon for 60 miles of mountainous twisty road with beautiful landscapes. Oh, and go to the track and run some times.

Very good info and documentation, I'm sure it will get stonger every time out, and you will take it to another level.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cherrington17 View Post
and THIS is the primary reason I won't touch engine mods. the car spends as much time, down, as it does up.

not worth the money/effort, if its not reliable.


It's called research and development, and he's pushing the build to the limit so it can be improved upon. In case you didn't notice, he's taking steps to make it reliable.
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Old 09-08-2010, 09:46 PM   #4
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Be careful with the Cometic gaskets. Not only must the head be flat, but the head surface and also the block surface needs to be prepped properly; 50RA or better on the surfaces.
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Old 09-08-2010, 10:03 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cherrington17 View Post
and THIS is the primary reason I won't touch engine mods. the car spends as much time, down, as it does up.

not worth the money/effort, if its not reliable.

i'd rather spend my time boosting than wiring up all those led's.
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Old 09-08-2010, 10:04 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfuller View Post
Be careful with the Cometic gaskets. Not only must the head be flat, but the head surface and also the block surface needs to be prepped properly; 50RA or better on the surfaces.
It said 80RA somewhere for this application, but I'll double check the numbers before I have them smooth it up. I'm sure D&S knows what to prep it to.
Edit: Cometic states right on their website a maximum of 50RA is recommended for proper sealing, and I found references to that number on j-body.org. Cool.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AleroB888 View Post
It's called research and development, and he's pushing the build to the limit so it can be improved upon. In case you didn't notice, he's taking steps to make it reliable.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cherrington17 View Post
and THIS is the primary reason I won't touch engine mods. the car spends as much time, down, as it does up.

not worth the money/effort, if its not reliable.
Nah it's called I was in a hurry the first time and didn't want to wait to order a gasket. I expected this to happen. Also the car is only down for a week usually when something like this happens, and this is the only time this year. My car is VERY reliable, except for the head gasket. So this time I'm ensuring it is perfect. The rest of the engine always was built and perfectly fine to handle anything, but the gasket is something I cheaped out on, not realizing how easily composite/graphite gaskets blow out with high boost/combustion pressures. Once the Cometic is on and the head is clamped down at 90 lb-ft.. it will never leak again and I'll go back to boosting.
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Old 09-08-2010, 10:26 PM   #7
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try to get the most top rated and highest pressure rated gasket you can find.
there a little thicker but it's the only way you can handle boost without have to change it all the time. the thin ass forged ones get alot more horspower cause theres less room from the head to the block but that's mainly for strictly racing
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Old 09-08-2010, 10:27 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris2000 View Post
i'd rather spend my time boosting than wiring up all those led's.

haven't done any led work in quite some time.... i barely do maintenance now.
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Old 09-08-2010, 10:36 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tunerkid View Post
try to get the most top rated and highest pressure rated gasket you can find.
there a little thicker but it's the only way you can handle boost without have to change it all the time.
Metal gaskets work far better than graphite/composite factory style ones for increased combustion pressures. I'm using a multi-layer stainless steel gasket from now on.
Quote:
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the thin ass forged ones get alot more horspower cause theres less room from the head to the block but that's mainly for strictly racing
Oh yeah? They make forged gaskets?
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Old 09-08-2010, 10:43 PM   #10
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Damn I thought u had a cometic when the engine was built. How much boost are u shhotin for?
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Old 09-08-2010, 10:45 PM   #11
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Same as before.. 18-20... HPTuners and my 2 bar MAP sensor can only utilize up to 210 kPa before it just copies the last cell of the table and uses the same values for fueling etc. beyond that. So up to 20 is still safe enough. Should be fine for low 12s/high 11s.
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Old 09-08-2010, 11:36 PM   #12
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yeah me too I tought that.... what did you do with the cometic that I sent to you ???
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Damn I thought u had a cometic when the engine was built. How much boost are u shhotin for?
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Old 09-09-2010, 12:16 AM   #13
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Hmm I think I sold it a long time ago. Wish I'd've kept it. Stupid gaskets are made to order and Jeg's said it was supposed to ship out on the 6th.. still hasn't shipped.
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Old 09-09-2010, 05:32 PM   #14
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well that's what i meant. using the multilayer ones are thicker for giving up a little less horsepower but can handle more boost pressures.
forged is another word aluminum. hence forged pistons
some racing style spoon engines used forged pistons for more power and those engines always have to be gone through
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Old 09-09-2010, 05:37 PM   #15
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Do you think before you type?
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Old 09-09-2010, 06:16 PM   #16
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Screw it Chris.....just O-ring the block.
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Old 09-09-2010, 06:42 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tunerkid View Post
well that's what i meant. using the multilayer ones are thicker for giving up a little less horsepower but can handle more boost pressures.
forged is another word aluminum. hence forged pistons
some racing style spoon engines used forged pistons for more power and those engines always have to be gone through

You have just proved you are a moron. Go do some research and then come back to this thread. Until then GTFO.

I wish I had your patience Chris, I am nearing the stopping point with mine. Want a carbon fiber hood for cheap?
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Old 09-09-2010, 06:48 PM   #18
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WTF ?? how can be FORGED mean the same of ALUMINIUM.... '' I dont use FORGED foil to cook potatoes on the BBQ ???

And a thicker gasket gives a little less "compression"... not horsepower... and you can even have the Cometic MLS gasket in stock thickness !! he's already got low compression forged aluminium pistons
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Originally Posted by tunerkid View Post
well that's what i meant. using the multilayer ones are thicker for giving up a little less horsepower but can handle more boost pressures.
forged is another word aluminum. hence forged pistons
some racing style spoon engines used forged pistons for more power and those engines always have to be gone through
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Old 09-09-2010, 06:49 PM   #19
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what do u expect the kid has been posting shit all over threads he is a moron i would go with the MLS headgaskets.
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Old 09-09-2010, 06:50 PM   #20
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Sorry to threadjack... but I do want a cf hood
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Want a carbon fiber hood for cheap?
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