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Old 04-25-2005, 02:48 PM   #21
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3" is not necessary. 2.5 mandle bent will work good for up to at least 15 psi.

3" is only really needed for 20 psi or more.

if you plan on running no mor than 15 psi then maybe check out the reflash. far as FMU use a cartech one.
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Old 04-25-2005, 04:26 PM   #22
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Thats what i was thinking...should i split it at the back suspension, or should i just run a single pipe?
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Old 04-25-2005, 04:33 PM   #23
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Oldsman, you are correct. I re-checked what I said earlier, thought about it, looked up some stuff, and I agree- 2.5 will be just fine. My apologies.
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Old 04-25-2005, 04:51 PM   #24
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i would go with one pipe. reason being that at the point of the Y you will create a turblence and could increase backpressure. by how much not sure. but a turbo setup doesn't want backpressure being this increases turbo lag to a degree.

I have talked to a good friend that has a 10sec GN and has own a few other10-11 sec buicksover 7 years and he has gave me some good info. so this is where i get my info from.
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Old 04-25-2005, 05:47 PM   #25
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From what i remember, the stock cat will flow just fine correct?
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Old 04-25-2005, 10:40 PM   #26
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don't forget to get your crank balance'd and cleaned up and also do the ARP head stud kit! other than that your good to go! Good Luck! oh yeah your labor price should be a whole lot higher! but if you can get it for that then coo.
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Old 04-26-2005, 01:21 AM   #27
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no clevite love or ARP on the bottom end :wtf: ??

BTW unless you specifically request it they do not balance the whole assembley at speed and some shops can't do it at all.
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Old 04-26-2005, 01:54 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by AnderbrA@Apr 25 2005, 09:10 AM
Most likely for the time being.... larger injectors and Vortec FMU....as i increase boost, ill have to revisit that. I am still researching it.

any ideas?

if you can somehow get the reflash, that'd probably be the easiest way. you might have a hard time trying to find a dealer that will do it though. i know i cant find one around here.

other than that there are a few options. what i will be running if i can find a decent priced additional injector controller (AIC), is 4 additional injectors, placed just behind the stock injectors so they squirt right into the valves. car runs like stock with no boost and as soon as you hit boost, extra injectors kick in to deliver more fuel. with most AIC's you can set it to start delivering fuel at a certain rpm as well as a certain boost level, as well as modifing the duty cycle of the injectors, lengthening or shortening the injector pulses to add or subtract fuel where and when you need it.

you could also go the route of bigger injectors, adjustable FPR, cartech adjustable FMU, and the apexi SAFC. there's a bunch of boosted cavaliers running that same setup on j-body.org having great success. just remember when sizing injectors, they go by how much power you want to make, not how much boost you're running. if you're starting out with lower boost, you can get a little bit bigger injectors and pull fuel with the SAFC. then when you decide to crank up the boost later on, you have injectors big enough to support the power gain.

and of course you could always go with a stand alone unit if you've got the funds for it.

be sure to invest in a wideband o2 sensor kit if you havent already. its incredibly difficult to tune the fuel curve without it.
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Old 04-26-2005, 02:00 AM   #29
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oh yeah...as for the exhaust, bigger is better with a turbo. 2.5" may be sufficient enough at lower boost levels, but you'll benefit more from 3" piping from the turbo back, especially when you're planning on running higher boost in the future. it would be better to remove the cat, but if you want it in there, i'd suggest getting a 3" high flow cat. you want the least restriction you can possibly get. also, like oldsman said, just do a single pipe out the back, otherwise you're causing unnecessary resistance and turbulance with it split to 2 pipes.
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Old 04-26-2005, 09:23 AM   #30
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I have the Turbo hardware itself down, but im still learning the whole Fuel System deal. that seems to be the more difficult part.

I dont know if i can use the reflash for an auto. I do have a spare ECU sitting around. But i dont know if they can do it outside the car.

So, the reflash will take place of the FMU and SAFC? I would still need FPR. Am i correct in that assumption?
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Old 04-26-2005, 10:08 AM   #31
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The reflash may do some things beneficial for boost but remember its only for a S/C running 6lbs, not a crazy 20+lb setup. It is also assuming you have the upgraded injectors, 2bar map, and the other things that come in the s/c kit. That is probably why you are having a hard time getting the flash done. If you care here are the calibration numbers I have manual is 88961331, auto is 88961332.

The fuel system is not really that difficult just some math. Basically if you can figure out the duty cycle the ECU is giving to the injectors you can get injectors close to the correct size. then fine tune the system with an AFPR. Ok its more complex than that in reality but its kinda hard to explain. Use a UEGO sensor for tuning for sure tho'
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Old 04-26-2005, 10:17 AM   #32
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if you build the motor for no more than 15 psi then if you can get the reflash go for it. but you would also need 2bar MAP and 310cc injectors.

Also the ECU can be reflashed without the car. in the instruction for the s/c it states you can either bring in the car or the ECU for the reflash.

far as the cat.....well with a turbo setup i would go with at least the same size as your exhaust so if running 2.5 then go with 2.5 cat. best case is to remove the cat if you can.
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Old 04-26-2005, 11:03 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fast Eddie@Apr 26 2005, 02:08 PM
The reflash may do some things beneficial for boost but remember its only for a S/C running 6lbs, not a crazy 20+lb setup. It is also assuming you have the upgraded injectors, 2bar map, and the other things that come in the s/c kit. That is probably why you are having a hard time getting the flash done. If you care here are the calibration numbers I have manual is 88961331, auto is 88961332.

The fuel system is not really that difficult just some math. Basically if you can figure out the duty cycle the ECU is giving to the injectors you can get injectors close to the correct size. then fine tune the system with an AFPR. Ok its more complex than that in reality but its kinda hard to explain. Use a UEGO sensor for tuning for sure tho'

looks like someone is gonna be helpin with my car when the time comes!
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Old 04-26-2005, 11:07 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally posted by Oldsman@Apr 26 2005, 02:17 PM
if you build the motor for no more than 15 psi then if you can get the reflash go for it. but you would also need 2bar MAP and 310cc injectors.


Some of the Jbods over on JBO are running up to 15 with the reflash with no problems....i dont know which route i want to go yet.

I would like to run a nominal 15psi....but it would be nice to know i could go to 20+ if i wanted.
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Old 04-27-2005, 02:45 AM   #35
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the reflash will work for the automatic as a few guys here have passed along to me. if you can get it, go for it. the 2bar map and 310cc injectors are easy to find. and if you want to go higher than 15psi, you can always add more to the fuel system down the road like bigger injectors, SAFC, etc. but remember...once you start getting into the 15-20psi range you have to start thinking about your transmission and cv axles and if they can handle the power the engine will produce at those high boost levels.
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Old 04-27-2005, 03:19 AM   #36
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Trust me when i say this, its not as easy as you guys are making it out to be, it is serious werk to get these things to run right and RELIABLE! oh yeah, patience!

One thing to look into is also the motor/tranny mounts! When i was running around 7psi i managed to tear my rear tranny mount!

Regardless good luck with that! I am also assuming there is an intercooler going somewhere in there & something to tune with? I didn't really read too much! If not see if Karo is still doing the Innovative group buy, i got the LC-1 & XD-1 from him!
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Old 04-27-2005, 03:30 AM   #37
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i know what you mean! its a lot harder actually getting everything to work together than just talking about it. motor/tranny mounts are actually something i've overlooked. will the motor mounts out of j-bodys work? and nguyen, i assume you replaced your tranny mount that was torn. did you use an aftermarket one or just a stock replacement?
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Old 04-27-2005, 03:52 AM   #38
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Yeah i replaced my tranny mounts with the ones from the Jbody vehicles but with some modifications, i got them from Karo! THe upper motor mount isn't compatible.

The inserts themselves are the same its just the inner sleeve needs to be bore out a bit, Its the same if you have a stick but i think its different mount if you have the auto!

With the quik drive around the block the other night i would say the tranny mount vibrations aren't all that bad, gotta wait til this weekend to really find out though.
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Old 04-27-2005, 09:41 AM   #39
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Tony, I dont know how many times ive asked you and gotten the information, but im gonna ask 1 more time.
can you shoot me a list of the parts youve put into the kit?
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Old 04-27-2005, 12:26 PM   #40
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with the reflash it will handle up to 14.7psi

it takes some of the guess work out of it.

but for those of us who can't do the reflash then you have a lot of tuning and just trying to get it right. it is a pain.

for the motor mounts if you have the auto you can get the RSM mount for the 3400 and it works on the 2.4 with auto.
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