STUMPED...whats next HELP!

[MMGT1]

Have you had the rad out at all yet? The design of our rad to evap leaves enough room between them to cause build-up between them, not allowing air to flow through there properly causing high temps. Once teh temp gets hot enough there is jsut too much pressure in there and the rad cap is gonna let it bleed off. Might want to check that out if you havent already

[MMGT1]

Sorry, you did say "cleaned it off", but did you actually remove it when you did this?

[TxAlero]

Originally Posted by MMGT1

Sorry, you did say "cleaned it off", but did you actually remove it when you did this?

Yes I removed the radiator and completely cleaned the outside of it and flushed it out then replaced it. So its a real possible that I just need a new one and see what happens then?

[zzyzzx]

Interesting commentary on the radiators, but I would figure that as a general rule, radiators have a leak when they go bad.

[Hellfire5670]

Take it to the shop and let us know what they tell you before they try and screw you over

[MMGT1]

And the condenser is clean right? That would sure mess things up if it was stopping flow on you. Your AC working fine?

[a.graham52]

water will boil at 212 degrees at atmospheric pressure. pressurizing your coolant will raise the boiling temp. i dont rember how many degrees per psi but i know its true. having a proper mix of coolant and water also helps (too much coolant and not enough water wont cool well enough etc). have you pressurized the radiator cap yet just to make sure thats working? iv bought 3 caps in a row before that have failed. i know from experince that once you start getting coolant boiling in the engine its hard to get it to stop. let it cool down, fill the cooling system to the proper level (the seam on the over flow tank) and pressurize the system with a pressure tester. bleed the system, and let it run for a little while. run the HEAT in yoru car, that will slow warm up a little bit and will also tell you if you have proper coolant level everywhere. its a good palce to start.

[TxAlero]

AC is running fine. I've pressure tested the system and cap. Both are holding at 15 psi well. No drop in pressure. I'm getting the boil over like I said after its warmed up and its on the upper hose connecting to the thermo, that's where the noise is coming from.

[Nate's Alero]

Originally Posted by TxAlero

AC is running fine. I've pressure tested the system and cap. Both are holding at 15 psi well. No drop in pressure. I'm getting the boil over like I said after its warmed up and its on the upper hose connecting to the thermo, that's where the noise is coming from.

Right there that says junk rad. It's not able to flow freely. Mine did that, new rad, no problems.

[03glgold]

if I remember right don't the radiator hoses on the alero have issues with getting weak and collapsing

[Nate's Alero]

Originally Posted by 03glgold

if I remember right don't the radiator hoses on the alero have issues with getting weak and collapsing

Not exactly. What happens is the cap fails, so when the pressure drops when the engine is cooling, the cap wont let in air and the hoses collapse because there's a slight vacuum.

[zzyzzx]

Originally Posted by Nate's Alero

Right there that says junk rad. It's not able to flow freely. Mine did that, new rad, no problems.

I still think it's rather unusual to have a radiator go bad without any leaking.

[xXManwhoreXx]

One word.. Dexicool

[a.graham52]

Originally Posted by xXManwhoreXx

One word.. Dexicool

two words with a hyphen: "dex-cool" and if i recall... there was no complaint of the engine overheating (according the the gauge)... i would think that would be a HUGE indicator of a bad radiator.

[Nate's Alero]

Originally Posted by zzyzzx

I still think it's rather unusual to have a radiator go bad without any leaking.

Nope. the smaller aluminum rads nowadays have such small passages that stuff can either get caught, or corrosion/rot can clog the small tubes.

Originally Posted by xXManwhoreXx

One word.. Dexicool

....was made for a purpose. the OAT Technology (Organic Acid Technology) Was designed for GM for the type of radiator and metal cast engines they were using, also to keep it maintenance free for 100K Miles. It was engineered for the vehicle. It should be used in the vehicle. I use it still, all i did was swap the defective gaskets over, and not a drop gone in over two years. ('cept when my rad clogged, and i changed it")

Originally Posted by a.graham52

two words with a hyphen: "dex-cool" and if i recall... there was no complaint of the engine overheating (according the the gauge)... i would think that would be a HUGE indicator of a bad radiator.

The main reason i keep saying rad is i've seen enough radiators in my life, look perfectly fine on the outside, but be hideous with calcium buildup and rot. the small tube and fin design clogs easily, and inhibits flow of coolant, even slightly, the coolant will backflow through the bypass and back at the pump, without being cooled, therefore i see why he hears that noise, and why it's boiling over at the cap. All makes sense. OP needs a new cap and rad.

[01GrandAm]

Stupid question but did you bleed the air out of the coolant system?

[xXManwhoreXx]

Lol

[TxAlero]

Originally Posted by 01GrandAm

Stupid question but did you bleed the air out of the coolant system?

Stupid answer--yes
Oh and buying a new rad for a 100 shipped from buyaradiator.com .

[sleepyalero]

Originally Posted by xXManwhoreXx

Orly?

yeah lol just lettin you know

[TxAlero]

Finally got my radiator installed today, but guess what it still over heats!!
When I had it ideling without the cap on it was purring like a kitten temp guage just under half and blowing hot air. I had bleed the system etc. I went for a drive with the cap on and by the time I got back the temp guage was in between half and three forths and I opened the hood and could hear the coolent boiling in the engine...
F u d g e , I'm clueless now, guess its off to the shop.