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Old 01-13-2006, 05:20 PM   #1
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well i was thinking since the original 8 gauge from alternator is too thin, and seems almost impossible to do a factory replacement and it remain easy......what i was thinking is, is it possible to run a 4 gauge directly off the alternator and put a fuse inbetween? i mean thats the same thing the oem cable is doing and there should be no problem running the extra cable cause schematically its just like adding a thicker wire......the other cable upgrades are pretty simple, this was my only curiosity.........anyone is welcome to answer but mikegett usually seems like hes got all the answers.......

thanks guys
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Old 01-17-2006, 05:44 PM   #2
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I haven't upgraded my alero, so I wouldn't be the best choice. In the past, I simply added a new wire opposed to replacing the factory. It made for a easier job.
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Old 01-20-2006, 09:07 AM   #3
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its not so much an alero question.........its more of a general one, all i need to know is that its do-able, the original wiring would be a pain to replace with a thicker cable so what about adding an extra piece, fusing it, and running it to the battery, thats what the original cable does and it also distributes power to all the underhood fuses, but basically its just fused from the alternator to the battery........
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Old 04-23-2006, 06:53 PM   #4
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hey bigd, i'm doing this in a day or two... i got a 2ga wire and some connectors.... i'll let ya know how it turns out.
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Old 04-24-2006, 01:28 AM   #5
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Yeah, that would totally be fine. There wouldn't normally be a fuse there either, but then again it won't hurt to have one.
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Old 04-24-2006, 03:08 PM   #6
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just finished.... and for a first timer, 2ga wire is NOT easy to work with.... :shout:

i didn't voltmeter it before (digital readout) so i can only go from what my gauge tells me and that i was around 14V at idle. after the accessory cable was installed, i'm not at 14.9V (w/ meter)

Everything seems to be running great, so i'm happy. for like $13, i added a full volt on my battery.

i didn't put a fuse inline. i talked to a friend who has done this before, and its a good safety measure... but there normally wouldn't be one there, so why bother. if i get some cash later, i'll put one in.
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Old 04-24-2006, 03:26 PM   #7
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Just curious bigd6983 why are you adding the extra wire?
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Old 04-24-2006, 03:46 PM   #8
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if you guys ever need any car audio help- go to www.carstereo.com theres a lot of great knowledge floating around there and theres thousands of installs to give a lot of different ideas.
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Old 04-25-2006, 12:37 AM   #9
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racin4jc, this thread stems from the alternator change "how to" thread.

basically, if you upgrade to a high output alternator, the stock wire going to the battery, is very small (12 gauge maybe?) and is not meant to handle the kind of amps a high output, puts through it... therefore your car isn't getting the full effect of the alt swap. Putting in an accessory power wire from the alt to the battery 8 gauge or better, essentially gives you the extra power the alt already produces.

make sense?
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Old 04-25-2006, 12:43 AM   #10
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Ya, it makes sense I didn't need an explanation of how it works I was simply wondering (and you did anwser my question) what he was adding to the car. I was thinking if he was having current issues or something that he should put in a surepower isolator. (but thanks for the kind explanation cherrington!)
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Old 04-25-2006, 12:44 AM   #11
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i will be needing to do this very soon as well. thanks for the info.
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Old 04-25-2006, 02:41 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by cherrington17@Apr 24 2006, 10:37 PM
racin4jc, this thread stems from the alternator change "how to" thread.

basically, if you upgrade to a high output alternator, the stock wire going to the battery, is very small (12 gauge maybe?) and is not meant to handle the kind of amps a high output, puts through it... therefore your car isn't getting the full effect of the alt swap. Putting in an accessory power wire from the alt to the battery 8 gauge or better, essentially gives you the extra power the alt already produces.

make sense?


It probably even helps with the stock alt. You will get some amount of voltage drop across the wire in all cases, however the better the connection and larger the wire, the less drop you have. This would be especially good for reducing the amount that the lights dim with a big stereo, etc.. If you really want to go nuts, you could even add in an auxiliary ground from the alternator casing to a good ground point on the body.
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Old 04-25-2006, 09:08 AM   #13
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the alternator is grounded right to the engine block. i dont think adding another wire will help there.... you cant really beat whats already done.
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Old 04-25-2006, 11:26 AM   #14
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When u upgrade the positive wires.. make sure to do the grounds also. or you'll f*** something up.

I had this done up long time ago.


^ damn thats an old pic. LOL
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Old 04-25-2006, 12:37 PM   #15
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looks like top notch work my friend. ^
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Old 04-25-2006, 04:36 PM   #16
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I think that everything Aftermath does is topnotch.
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Old 04-26-2006, 02:22 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by cherrington17@Apr 25 2006, 07:08 AM
the alternator is grounded right to the engine block. i dont think adding another wire will help there.... you cant really beat whats already done.

I actually helped a guy who had a corroded ground on the alternator. Somehow the corrosion got between the alternator and bracket and/or the bracket and engine block. He was actually quite irritated that i wouldn't sell him an alternator, however he thanked me when he got it fixed.
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Old 04-26-2006, 09:42 AM   #18
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^interesting.....

and i also have a top notch battery now. (optima redtop, and like a douche, i now realize i should have spent some more and gotten a yellow.. but oh well)

and aftermath, where do you get something like that done, and how much does it cost?? I know your pulling more power then most people, but DAMN. lol
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Old 04-26-2006, 01:10 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by cherrington17@Apr 26 2006, 07:42 AM

and aftermath, where do you get something like that done, and how much does it cost?? I know your pulling more power then most people, but DAMN. lol

I do everything on my car myself. 100% Only thing it cost me is for parts (the power wires and ring terminals,etc) and lots of time!

Any custom audio shop can do it, but they prolly won't want to do it and quote you a large sum of money.
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Old 04-26-2006, 02:25 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by cherrington17@Apr 26 2006, 07:42 AM
and i also have a top notch battery now. (optima redtop, and like a douche, i now realize i should have spent some more and gotten a yellow.. but oh well)

Why? Planning on killing/recharging it every other day? The only advantage of the Yellow over the Red is that is that the Yellows are deep cycle... Reds have quicker response to power loads, and Yellows can just be drained and recharged with no ill effect.

If you want to go for the big boy batteries look at the Odyssey, Kinetik (HC 2400 anyone? ) , Northstart, Hawker/EnerSys or Deka

I went with dual Yellows just for the bling factor

~vR
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