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Old 01-02-2007, 10:59 AM   #1
billytheman1188
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Optima Red or Yellow

Well i have christmas money to spend and i was searching on this site on info for the yellow top, I WAS planning on taking out the old battery and put in the yellow top, but after i read up on them on here, people said to get the red top instead of the yellow. I mean i have a decent system, 1100 watts, but what do you guys think? should i get the red or yellow?
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Old 01-02-2007, 11:19 AM   #2
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I have red in my car, but I'm not running, or plan to ever run a system in it.

With a system, I suggest a yellow top
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Old 01-02-2007, 01:12 PM   #3
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yea i was leaning toward the yellow but people were saying to get red, diff reasons. But now i think i might lean towards getting front and rear strut bars or a front strut bar and a new wireless internet card for my laptop cause the one that came with it is...... a.)2 yrs old, b.)it sucks
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Old 01-02-2007, 01:54 PM   #4
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i run a yellow top, 2600 watts, never have a problem.
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Old 01-02-2007, 03:09 PM   #5
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can sumone explain the difference to me..im also looking to get one but i can only find the red tops around here..is there a price differance also cause the red top here is 200$.
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Old 01-02-2007, 03:30 PM   #6
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check ebay for the yellow top, i got mine for 180.00 shipped from ebay.


yellowtop is a deepcycle spiral core, redtop is a standard spiral core.
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Old 01-02-2007, 04:06 PM   #7
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I have a system and a Red Top and it works/has worked for 4 years fine.
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Old 01-02-2007, 06:12 PM   #8
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I have the red one
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Old 01-02-2007, 07:15 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jabartram View Post
yellowtop is a deepcycle spiral core, redtop is a standard spiral core.

?????? OK, I'll ask. What does that mean?
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Old 01-02-2007, 09:53 PM   #10
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The yellow top is a deep cycle battery. It will provide less over current, but the current it will provide is over a longer period of time.

The Red Top is more of a car starting battery. Provides good CCA, but not long term current.
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Old 03-10-2007, 10:59 AM   #11
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I sucked a red top dry once. I use Kinetik Power cells now. Great power comp. to the red top
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Old 03-10-2007, 11:53 AM   #12
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Billy, they make a blue one too








































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Old 03-10-2007, 02:33 PM   #13
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Old 03-10-2007, 05:01 PM   #14
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deep cycle are typically marine batteries. even if you kill them, you can throw a charger on them and they will be good again. Which means yellow top can be drained, but revived.

red top, if you kill them, your only going to get a fraction of the power back... but it does provide better cold cranking amps (cca's) which is good for us, in the frozen tundra months...

i wish i had known that when i got my redtop... 2 years ago. i thought red WAS deep cycle. (knew yellow was) now i keep fighting myself to get a yellow, since i accidentally killed my red twice.
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Old 03-10-2007, 05:23 PM   #15
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i have 2 Stinger SP1000's in my car, they are deepcycle drycell and run like $225 or thats what they were when i got mine with a 1.0 cap and my lights still dimmed with my system
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Old 03-10-2007, 08:25 PM   #16
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should be red for starting yellow for extra
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Old 03-11-2007, 08:58 PM   #17
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I have yellow and no complaints
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Old 03-11-2007, 10:23 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xsavyor1 View Post
I sucked a red top dry once. I use Kinetik Power cells now. Great power comp. to the red top

Ya I guess Pat has some good batts.

Anyways my SPL friend prefers the DEKA batteries. I think we got 3 of the intimidators in the Buick...

Seems you didnt pick the right battery for the job
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Old 03-11-2007, 10:30 PM   #19
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yellow ftw
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Old 03-12-2007, 05:15 PM   #20
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I pretty much agree with most everybody else, red for starting yellow for a longer lasting power for a system, I put two yellow tops in my diesel truck first but they had a harder time starting it but when i switched to red they started it much easier, no system in the truck though.
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