trunk latch

shonky_alero · 09-25-2009, 04:25 AM

has anyone ever had their trunk latch rust all the way off the body? I love my alero but its falling apart time for some major tlc.

[ion] C2 · 09-25-2009, 07:28 AM

I actually just experienced this. Was wondering why my trunk didn't seem to close all the way. Part of where the trunk latch attaches to the body was rusted out and it allowed it to bend. I used two heavy duty cable ties and was able to secure it strongly until I get it fixed. The trunk closes solidly now.

bdyman · 09-25-2009, 08:49 AM

its very common for the rear body panle to rust out by the striker
the only repair that i have been able to do is replace it with new metal, one customer loved and i mean LOVED his alero and paid for a new rear body panle, that was alittle extreme but the customer is always right and i guess in a way he was right
it is a better repair, but i never had a problem with just repairing the affected area
so bring me the car and i`ll fix it for ya

whiterider00 · 09-25-2009, 10:47 PM

mines been like this for couple years now, and i just havent gotten around to fixing it permanently. mine, the entire plate of metal that the striker is attached to is rusted out, so i had pretty much a softball size hole there, with the metal piece kinda floating around in it.its kinda fixed now, but not as good as it could be. bdyman, any idea on what it would cost to have it repaired professionally? it looks like something i may be able to do, but if not, id just like to know what it might cost.

Kilroy · 09-25-2009, 11:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdyman

its very common for the rear body panle to rust out by the striker
the only repair that i have been able to do is replace it with new metal, one customer loved and i mean LOVED his alero and paid for a new rear body panle, that was alittle extreme but the customer is always right and i guess in a way he was right
it is a better repair, but i never had a problem with just repairing the affected area
so bring me the car and i`ll fix it for ya

Same thing happened to me bdyman. The body shop said it would cost way too much to replace the whole back clip, and I said that since you can't see the part anyway, I don't care as long as the trunk closes. So, they just welded a plate and the latch in place. Now the trunk closes.

bdyman · 09-26-2009, 12:05 AM

right^^^^^..............thats the cheaper alternative, is to fab new metal in its place, replacing the entire rear body panle, is a huge job, we get 8 hours=65 an hour, plus 6-7 paint at 65 an hour, plus all the removing of parts, it gets very costly

as far as a price goes the last one i did the final bill was 1,000 even
and thats cheap

AlbinoMonkeyRat · 09-26-2009, 09:00 AM

how much would you estimate that the simpler cheaper method costs? Mine is doing this (has been for years....I've kept my trunk shut with bungee cords since 2006....

Nate's Alero · 09-26-2009, 09:36 AM

mine did this,

take wood, drill holes in wood and striker to match, sandwich the rotted body panel, between the striker and wood, you now have a complete, fixed trunk... LOL

shonky_alero · 10-03-2009, 07:27 PM

i just used a ratchet strap. But every time I need in the trunk I have to get under the car and undo the ratchet strap then fix it again when im done it sucks. I have a welder im just gonna weld a new piece of metal in the rusted area.

meadus101 · 10-03-2009, 07:35 PM

This one has come up alot.

It cost me 35 bucks.

I had a guy take a stick welder, and take off the trim on the trunk where the latch comes up through. then use the stick to weld the striker in place where it is supposed to be. it worked perfectly. so instead of putting in new metal (i'm a poor college student) i just welded the edge of the striker panel thing to the inside of the trunk, it's solid and works perfectly.

This should be done as a temp fix only, until you can repair it properly.

AlbinoMonkeyRat · 10-03-2009, 09:00 PM

I'm about to do the wood thing...that's how frustrated I am. LOL just need some metal-boring drill bits.

Nate's Alero · 10-03-2009, 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlbinoMonkeyRat

I'm about to do the wood thing...that's how frustrated I am. LOL just need some metal-boring drill bits.

its very soft metal, i hit it with some WD - 40 and a wood bit, bit through nicely

what about JB weld or OuikSteel? its great shit!

Boldsmobile · 11-14-2009, 11:32 PM

I just fixed mine. Sorry i didnt think to take pics.

I will try to describe the repair.

Unbolted the hook being careful not to rip what was left of the mounting plate. My plate was still holding by the two spot welds under the trunk gasket. Pulled the trunk gasket away and I drilled the two spots welds and pulled the plate off. I used the plate to trace its shape on a piece of sheet metal. I added about 2" to each side and an inch longer. Bent a slight bend in it to match the bend in the plate i removed. I transfered the spot weld holes and the trunk hook mouting holes from the old rusted out plate to the new sheet metal piece.

I drilled several 1/4" from the inside of the trunk all around the hole left by the rust.

Used the spot weld marks from the trunk lip on my new plate to locate the new plate to the outside of the trunk. Held it with two vice grips.

Welded from the inside of the trunk through the 1/4" holes i drilled to hold attach the new plate to the outside of the trunk. Also welded the plate through the two original spot weld holes in the trunk lip.

Drilled the two large holes to mount the hook plate. Adjusted the plate to make the trunk sit tight.

Seam sealed the edges of the new plate and painted it all up.

Sorry i didnt take pics.

The original plae is a really a poor design. The plate the factory spot welds has an open back and as the water drips down it runs along the bottom of the plate and thats where the rust line in the trunk forms.

For you guys that havent had this happen yet .... Go to your rear bumper cover and pull it away slight and look at the plate on the outside of the car. Look to see how far rusted yours is. Seal the openings on the side and undercoat the hell out of it.

Cashdollar2009 · 11-14-2009, 11:52 PM

I wouldn't recommend this, but i have a wrench jammed into the gap between the latch and the plate on the body. Temporary, yet effective.

Nate's Alero · 11-15-2009, 08:14 AM

i had a brush, then i had a paintbrush, then i had a block of wood, its wearing out again, today's the day i wanna take the rear bumper cover off and go in, and clean all the area, and then weld it back to factory spec, and clean it all up

how do i remove the back bumper?

Boldsmobile · 11-15-2009, 10:40 AM

You might be able to get away with just removing the bumper cover (as opposed to the metal support). Not sure what you are calling bumper.

I did my repair with the bumper cover in place. Make sure you have a welding blanket to protect the cover and the interior trunk panels.

For the guys who dont have access to a welder you could bolt a new piece of metal in and using 1/4" bolts with large fender washers. Important to seal it all up later so now water gets in between your new plate and the trunk panel.

Wish i took some pics while it was in process.