l7 or type x?

[Ryan from Ohio]

I remember paying $300 for a W6 V1...

They aint worth it no how no way, not in this market.

If the current "classic W6V1" is over $100 you are being severely ripped off.

[lil.red.alero]

im on ebay looks like i can get some for about 90 each..u think these would hit way harder then w3s?

[DansGen1Alero]

brand new they were 300, but went down to 250 shortly after. They have been discontinued since 2003. Yes w-6s version 1 DVC hit harder then w-3s, If they are version 2 maybe not as much, I beleive the version 1s were 6 ohm??? (needed to run in 1's and 3's)

[DansGen1Alero]

If its this one, Id say thats good, seller looks good too

http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-AUDIO-12W6-TH...item27ac3f00ef


heres 3 for 325, thats a good deal

http://cgi.ebay.com/3-JL-Audio-12W6-...item45eef8ae90

[lil.red.alero]

ya thats the one i was lookin at u said u had three of these in an alero?

[DansGen1Alero]

yes 3 side by side, as well as 3 in my lexus, I have the alpine runnin the 3 in the alero, and a JL 1000/1 runnin the other three. I am satisfied, I hit about 143.1 or 141.3db in the alero.

[Ryan from Ohio]

http://americanbassusa.com/front/sho...aspx?fileid=67

^ That is BETTER than a W6V1 and is cheaper to. Brand new, w/warranty.

W6V1 was a technological break through- in 1996...

Its 2009 now...

BTW the American Bass DX12 runs $75

[DansGen1Alero]

Its all about personal preference, yes JL had a break through with them, and I personally haven't found anything that I like better and can stand the test of time. I believe they handle more watts RMS as well, and I dont think those are cheaper then the W-6V1's you can find now that are new $90 they are just an older model, but selling as new

[Ryan from Ohio]

Watts RMS dont determine what subs better.

That DX will outperform the W6V1 any day.

[DansGen1Alero]

IM not saying the rms does determine whats better, I still would pick the JL over some brand I have never heard of

I do see that they are WAYYYY cheaper but they only have 1 voice coil (if thats something you are looking at), they are like 60 bucks, so dude by all means if you are looking for cheap then do it. I just learned the hard way you get what you pay for. Again its personal preference and I know the JL

[Ryan from Ohio]

Well if your just using one sub then you will have some goofy Ohm load...

3 Ohm load or 12 Ohm...

So be very aware of that.

The novelty of the W6 was to run them in 3's to produce a 4 ohm load. Which was low for 2 channel amps back then- before Class D...

American Bass is a reputable company well know to the competition circuits. Used in the lanes.

The JL is a good product, not knocking it. But the DX is simply a better product at a lesser price. You will get more out of it.

[DansGen1Alero]

Very true the v1w6s were meant to be run in 1's or 3's not many to my understanding caught on to that, 1 reason they were discontinued. the last 6 i purchased were the AE versions thinking the only main dif was the surrounding.

I am not knocking the DX either, but I am also not a dealer so I have no reason to push one over the other. This one shop out by me pushed lanzar and soundstream (granted this was over a decade ago) and I gave in to soundstream, and they were POS's lol. I even had their mono amp (the affordable one) and I blew every cap in that thing. You would think it was the 4th of July in my trunk. thats what turned me onto the Alpine V12

[AleroB888]

Originally Posted by Ryan from Ohio

Well if your just using one sub then you will have some goofy Ohm load...

3 Ohm load or 12 Ohm...

So be very aware of that.

The novelty of the W6 was to run them in 3's to produce a 4 ohm load. Which was low for 2 channel amps back then- before Class D...
...................

All this talk of subwoofs is getting me interested in audio projects again.

What I don't see in any of the literature on these, or any other units, is the plot of complex impedance vs frequency, as mounted in an enclosure. They show some TL enclosures on that American Bass site, and some others, but I don't see data for the speaker/box combos. You are aware that in vented designs the impedance rises and falls with 2 peaks and generally a trough between those peaks, and the cabinet tuning and damping will determine the magnitude and frequency of the peaks. That is not usually as much an issue for overall listenability, but I would guess it would be critical for competitions, where the minimum impedance needs to be close to the frequency where max output is desired.

Normally woofs with as high a Qts as they show there would only be used in a large sealed box, or a TL (where damping would usually be needed). Vented boxes are much more tricky to achieve a decent impedance curve, which is critical to getting the most power out of the amps. Amps are a lot better than they used to be as far as stability, but clipping at some ranges in the bass is more likely unless the enclosure is correctly damped. The impedance plot is one indication of how well that is done.

[Ryan from Ohio]

American Bass does not list or give box recommendations in their literature or website.

You can call them up though and get box recommendations.

Impedance rise is always a factor but given a properly designed box its never been an issue.

As far as amplifiers go, if you have a proper amplifier of good quality you shouldnt run into problems.

Selecting a vented or sealed enclosure is based off the EBP. It can be slanted. The 10" DX was slightly slanted to sealed if I remember correctly. It works well still in vented, it was just a slight slant.

[2000aleroff]

if your going to go with kickers you should definatly go with kicker cvx 12". 2 of those would be extremely loud in the right box. i have the cvr 12's and they kill my alero. so a custom box with ports would probs flex your roof, shake the heck out of your trunk, and blur your eyes when your driving =P

[Cashdollar2009]

Originally Posted by 2000aleroff

if your going to go with kickers you should definatly go with kicker cvx 12". 2 of those would be extremely loud in the right box. i have the cvr 12's and they kill my alero. so a custom box with ports would probs flex your roof, shake the heck out of your trunk, and blur your eyes when your driving =P

Have you ever had your car metered before?

[2000aleroff]

you mean like a db meter?

[colonel6632]

Originally Posted by 2000aleroff

if your going to go with kickers you should definatly go with kicker cvx 12". 2 of those would be extremely loud in the right box. i have the cvr 12's and they kill my alero. so a custom box with ports would probs flex your roof, shake the heck out of your trunk, and blur your eyes when your driving =P

i've got 2 12" cvrs. it's true. they can hit pretty hard. i can feel my hair shaking under my hat at times. sometimes not so much. depends where they are in my trunk, and which way they are facing. but ya. they push alot of air. my trunk flexs and shakes like crazy

[2000aleroff]

ya, cvrs are so sick, and cvx's are a step up. they will probs go up to about 140 dbs if you do it right and they will shake every part of your car, doors, windsheild, roof, trunk, heck proly even the front bumper hahah

[2000aleroff]

another thing about the cvx's is that if you get an infinity 1211a amplifier(about 300 and change) plus the cvx's about 300 also, and the wiring kit another 50-100 depending on what you go with.. you wont have to buy an extra battery, cap, or alternator. it should run on the stock battery just fine. so your looking at about 700-800 for a system that you will never have to upgrade. even if you did want to upgrade you would have to go very comp to do so. like jl 13w7's or solo x's. but thats an extreme. so sticking with the kicker cvx's would be plenty.

this is just my suggestion. its what i want to upgrade to and i have done all the research for it already. just kinda stopped because of money issues...but its a great idea.