12-15-2010, 09:54 PM
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#1
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15.65 @ 87.3 MPH
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sarnia, Ontario
Posts: 1,189
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Possible Alernator Issues
I think that my alternator is starting to go on me. When I go in my car this morning I turned the heat to max and I turned on my defroster and the interior lights dimmed and my headlights dimmed for a second. When I rev my engine or start accelerating, everything operates normally. I'm also noticing a rough idle so I'm thinking my injectors aren't being supplied enough voltage. Isn't the battery indicator in the cluster supposed to go off if my alternator isnt supply enough current? I was thinking of getting a HO alternator soon enough anyways.
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12-15-2010, 10:20 PM
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#2
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Premier V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Oxbow SK
Posts: 1,385
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check the grounds and battery connections
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2002 Alero w/ 2.2 ecotec 5 speed
power window conversion, heated leather seats, 16" rims, high & low hids, auto dimming rear mirror, speedbuilt front and rear sway bars, poly bushings all around.
2005 Silverado 2500HD w/ 6.0l Vortec 4L80E
Tuned 6.0l, exhaust, intake, with 450000km on the odometer. Tow Rig
1985 Pontiac Trans Am GTA w/ 5.7 Vortec 700r4
mild vortec 350 with 4 speed auto. performance suspension. factory gold color. project car
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12-15-2010, 10:50 PM
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#3
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GLS member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 2,733
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Nah, if it's supplying power it won't light the battery light... obviously just not enough though.
Check your running voltage.. should be about 13.5V or above.
Otherwise getting the alt checked and properly load tested is usually pretty cheap at a shop.
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12-15-2010, 11:17 PM
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#4
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GL Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 298
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With the fans blasting all the way and the defrost on my car has been acting this way for 3 years. I wouldn't worry about it yet.
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12-15-2010, 11:45 PM
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#5
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GLS member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Baltimore, MD USA
Posts: 5,529
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Your car doesn't necessarily charge the battery at idle. When you load it down with the defrosters at idle, you are probably discharging the battery,
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12-16-2010, 12:13 AM
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#6
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15.65 @ 87.3 MPH
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sarnia, Ontario
Posts: 1,189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clutch1
Nah, if it's supplying power it won't light the battery light... obviously just not enough though.
Check your running voltage.. should be about 13.5V or above.
Otherwise getting the alt checked and properly load tested is usually pretty cheap at a shop.
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Should I get roughly 13.5V at idle with my defroster and heater on full blast?
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12-19-2010, 05:31 PM
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#7
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15.65 @ 87.3 MPH
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sarnia, Ontario
Posts: 1,189
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So I've found out that my alternator is crapping out on me. It's getting pretty hot to the point where you can't touch it for long. Whats a good amp rating for a High output alternator? I'm running a subwoofer and an amp already and I intend on getting another amp for my speakers. Also would an overdrive pulley decrease HP?
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12-19-2010, 11:18 PM
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#8
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GX Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 123
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I have a 04' with stock Alt and my car has lower heater power and light power at idle rather than 1K+ rpms even in 1st gear. This has been going on since I bought it a year ago, and I run 2 12"s constantly. I would agree your Alt. is probably going bad, but an overdrive pulley sounds out of mean for your application, I personally would get a HO alt as I will be replacing my stock Alt with one. Funny thing is I have seen TONS of stock Alts. and OEM replacements on many vehicles handle heavy, heavy loads....I'm talking about 4 12"s, 2 1K amps, LED's lighting floors, subs, dash, vents, strobe in headlamps, all running OEM replac. under the hood without illegal dimming of ext. lights.
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B4 Cleared Corners/Fog Light Removal
No More Cobalts - 2 12" Punch HE2's
1100W BOSS CHAOS Mono Amp
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12-20-2010, 12:24 AM
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#9
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15.65 @ 87.3 MPH
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sarnia, Ontario
Posts: 1,189
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Well I guess it depends on the car and the stock alternator amperage rating. I know the 3400's alternator is 105 amps. I'm just wondering if upgrading to something in the 170 amp range is too much. I'm going out tomorrow to get the alt changed just to get it outta the way. Just thought I'd do some last minute research.
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12-20-2010, 10:14 AM
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#10
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GX Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 123
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http://www.powerbastards.com/products.asp?cat=2325
That is listing a 220A for my 04' 3.4L, So I'm guessing it would have NO problems with a 170A HO Alt.
__________________
B4 Cleared Corners/Fog Light Removal
No More Cobalts - 2 12" Punch HE2's
1100W BOSS CHAOS Mono Amp
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12-20-2010, 10:44 AM
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#11
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GLS member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Valley City, ND
Posts: 999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stickybuddz420
I have a 04' with stock Alt and my car has lower heater power and light power at idle rather than 1K+ rpms even in 1st gear. This has been going on since I bought it a year ago, and I run 2 12"s constantly. I would agree your Alt. is probably going bad, but an overdrive pulley sounds out of mean for your application, I personally would get a HO alt as I will be replacing my stock Alt with one. Funny thing is I have seen TONS of stock Alts. and OEM replacements on many vehicles handle heavy, heavy loads....I'm talking about 4 12"s, 2 1K amps, LED's lighting floors, subs, dash, vents, strobe in headlamps, all running OEM replac. under the hood without illegal dimming of ext. lights.
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It would take several hundred LEDs in a car before your alt even noticed the current draw from them.
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2003 Alero GL2 LA1: pacesetter cat back, Energy Speed WAI, Magnaflow downpipe/cat, tinted tail lights, and polished letters on intake manifold.
1987 Honda Rebel 450
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