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Old 01-14-2010, 01:35 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by AleroDrime View Post
cherry thats how my led needles r dont but how are yall getting the prnd321 to light blue, is there a way to change the color of ur miles too?

Not sure how it is in the Alero, but most vehicles use a vacuum display for the mileage (green display). The answer is no, you cannot change the color using an easy method - other than replacing the board. You can lay a tint film over it, but you'll always have the green mixing with the color.
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Old 01-26-2010, 02:46 AM   #22
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so what did you wire these to? did you wire them to a separate switch or did you wire them in so that they come on when you turn the headlights on?

also. on the oznium site, i did not see a 220 ohm 1/4 watt resistor. im guessing that you can use a resistor with a different ohm rating, same watt rating, with either more or less led's, correct? and since ohm is a measure of resistance, and the higher the ohms, the more resistance, would i be correct in assuming that if 220 ohms is good for 3 leds then something like 560 ohms would be good for 1? 2 maybe?
i guess im led-ignorant. school me if you will.
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Old 01-26-2010, 08:29 AM   #23
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i've done this as well.... and am able to help anyone... i've gone LED nuts... PM meh if ya need halp
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Old 01-26-2010, 11:13 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by white04alero View Post
so what did you wire these to? did you wire them to a separate switch or did you wire them in so that they come on when you turn the headlights on?

also. on the oznium site, i did not see a 220 ohm 1/4 watt resistor. im guessing that you can use a resistor with a different ohm rating, same watt rating, with either more or less led's, correct? and since ohm is a measure of resistance, and the higher the ohms, the more resistance, would i be correct in assuming that if 220 ohms is good for 3 leds then something like 560 ohms would be good for 1? 2 maybe?
i guess im led-ignorant. school me if you will.

its two wires that are coming out the harness for the gauges, a gray and a gray striped one it think, you solder into those, id have to look to make sure its gray wires though
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Old 01-26-2010, 12:40 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AleroDrime View Post
its two wires that are coming out the harness for the gauges, a gray and a gray striped one it think, you solder into those, id have to look to make sure its gray wires though

DO NOT SOLDER!!!!!

Use quick taps or w/e, those are reversible
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Old 01-27-2010, 10:33 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Nate's Alero View Post
DO NOT SOLDER!!!!!

Use quick taps or w/e, those are reversible
Also unreliable..they will eventually separate or cause an intermittent issue. Fused links always work the best.
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Old 01-27-2010, 10:41 AM   #27
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Also unreliable..they will eventually separate or cause an intermittent issue. Fused links always work the best.

yeah, never had an issue with taps if the area is not submittable to movement... when behind the gauge cluster, i think not lol
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Old 01-27-2010, 11:45 AM   #28
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solders fine if you want to reverse it cut off the free wire and tape it up

+even red wire taps arent that effective on some of the factory wiring
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Old 01-27-2010, 03:15 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate's Alero View Post
yeah, never had an issue with taps if the area is not submittable to movement... when behind the gauge cluster, i think not lol
Even though you haven't had a problem yet still doesn't make it a good idea. All vehicles have movement, I've seen plugs that plug into an outlet back out alittle bit over time with slight vibration..and that was in a tower building with just radios in it....even a small amount of vibration that you may not feel could cause a problem, so yes there is still vibration behind the gauge cluster. Nothing beats a fused link, or the piece of mind that comes along with it. To each his own everybody is going to do things the way they see fit. You would rather use taps...I would rather solder!
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Old 01-27-2010, 07:18 PM   #30
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i solder.. but i'll admit, i just recently changed all my gauge lights to one giant twisted wire connection w/ decent tape.

I got tired of soldering them all together, then soldering them all.. (7 (+) wires now with 1 common ground) It has been flawless for now, and it makes testing each easier, as well as pulling the unit out MUCH easier.

I would not recommend this for anyone though. Solder, or use wire connectors.
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