What Do You Think?

Alpine and Eclipse and Phoenix Gold are all highquality amps. you could buy some Boston Acoustics amps which would surely break your bank but common its clean power for SQ. Here is a monoblock that would more then easily run those 2 polk Momos http://www.alpine-usa.com/en/products/prod...model=MRD-M1005

[_01Alero_]

ouch.... that alpine amp is Expensive!....

I think I may have found the amp that I am going to get. the Kenwood KAC 9102D. It seems to put out what I need. Any opinions on that amp?

[violentrapture]

The Kenwood would work fine - 850x1@2 RMS for under $200 is a good deal.

~vR

[_01Alero_]

Last time I'll post on this, but Im deciding on what to go with.. It will definetly be one or the other this time....

Choices:

1) Polk C500.1 Amp (2)
Cost: $290

2) Kenwood KAC 9102D
Cost: $190



I was thinking of going with 2 C500.1's because I could power each sub with one amp and have the amps full potential going to each sub instead of having to split the amp up and have one amp supporting two subs. I know that one amp supporting two subs is fine, but I think I would get a better sounding system by getting 2 of the same amp (C500.1's) to push each sub.

Opinions.......

[violentrapture]

Originally posted by AaronKAlero@May 7 2006, 04:06 PM
[...] I think I would get a better sounding system by getting 2 of the same amp (C500.1's) to push each sub.

Opinions.......

Quoted post

Nope, doesn't make a difference - power is power. Even differences in THD (as long as it's less than say... 1-2% lol) or damping factors (as long as it's greater than about 200) will be inaudible - all hail Richard Clark?

Two amps just means more space taken up and more wiring to deal with.

~vR

[sound_xtreme]

power IS power. but power RATINGS can be very controversial. such as Company A rating their amp at 2000rms but thats at an ideal 14.4, then Company B rating their amp at 2000rms but at a more realistic 12 or 13 volts. most likely the amp made by Company A will never reach it's rated RMS.

Not to mention the methods can vary greatly on how companies rate their amps. CEA ratings should be required in my opinion, a unified rating system would sure help weed out false power rating claims.

[violentrapture]

^^ amen

[nickgonzo]

Originally posted by violentrapture+Apr 28 2006, 02:12 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(violentrapture @ Apr 28 2006, 02:12 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-AaronKAlero@Apr 28 2006, 02:08 PM
The only question that I have about that is, I have heard single channel amps that get bridged tend to overheat and tend to last shorter than a normal amp is suppose to last. Is this true?

I know I may seem like Im a complete idiot on all of this, but I do not want to rush in on buying something and it not be what I was looking for, and finding out that I could of gotten something better for around the same price! So Im just looking for all the information and opinions I can get.

Quoted post

Bridging can cause amps to run hotter, however cooled properly it doesn't necessarily shorten the lifespace. The amps I mentioned above are monoblock though - single channel, so nothing is bridged.

Quoted post

[/b][/quote]

Bridging CAN cause an amp to run hotter.. but it depends on the load really. If I hook up some 2ohm speakers to my 100x2@4ohm amp (200x2@2ohm).. I should be able to pull 400 watts in stereo mode with that amp (of course lets be realistic with the amp companies these days). Anyways lets say I bridge a 4ohm sub to those channels.. the load is very similar and I should still see 400watts at 4ohms bridged.

Where people get into trouble is when they try to bridge a 2ohm load to an amp that isnt capable of running that low.

[_01Alero_]

I hear ya....

Well I finally went out and got me an amp. I was going to go with the Kenwood i was talking about, but I got an awesome deal on an SPL amp.

I got an SPL DK2-1500

It has the specs I was looking for. And I got it cheaper than the kenwood....

Will take some pics when I get system all installed!