Ported Trunk

[AleroDrime]

Originally Posted by Redog

I think what you should do is just cut right thru the sheet metal in the trunk and what the hell be different, cut the 1/4 panels too

lol and look like i have buick vents on the rear

[heineck]

quit naggin, do the quarter panels

[bdyman]

Originally Posted by heineck

quit naggin, do the quarter panels

dont tell him to do that then he will start a thread asking how to cut the 1/4 panels, btw i think ken was kidding, and dude did you even read my post what my grand am had??

[heineck]

u think im serious? Oh god no i dont wanna be there when someone tries to explain cuttin the 1/4s

[bdyman]

lol i knew you joking, but this kids mind doesnt work like a normal brain, so ken can you please tell him your joking

[Redog]

^^ Why?

In fact, even with the holes in the trunk as long as he drives at 56.243 MPH on the interstate when it's raining, he won';t get water in his trunk. But it HAS TO BE 56.243!! Not 57, not 55, not even 56.242!

I mean he has gotten some pretty good suggestions and he says they don't work and at the same time he says he has no experience in this area.

[Bad99Olds]

He should drill speedholes in his hood. Atts 2.049439204893 HP per hole.

[Afugy]

I will try and ask this again.

AleroDrime have you done anything to the trunk to fix any of the rattling? Anything at all?

And those "rod things" you keep talking about are what hold the trunk up then its open.

[YALEROYNOT]

cut the metal make a grill and be done with it.... or cut the holes and get some flared round ports and done. the metal rods ? you (maybe not you) but some one could take them out and put some gas shocks in there place... I saw a guy do it when he put 2 10" in the rear deck of a saturn..... you could do that to make a box mount it to the rear deck and replace the 6x9's with 10" subs








here are some pics of rear deck ports





the pics of the port thru the deck was done by steve hock, its kat von dee's cts, bob wires fron alaska did the saturn

[AleroDrime]

ya'll are too quick to jump to conclusions. I know the rear 1/4s was a joke. Those are not the rods I'm talking about matter of fact i dont see them in your picture, rods probably isnt the proper term anyways. Yaleroynot, nice!, those ports look alot like mine, i dont see any kinda cutting underneath though.
Big issue now is this, I pulled everthing to the top deck apart to day only broke one of those plastic clips. But the driverside of the rear deck wouldnt pull out, id almost have to say it was glued back there, the passengers side was free. But rather than get anxiouse, rush, and break somting i popped it all back together, and spent time wiping the door seals clean

[AleroDrime]

Originally Posted by Afugy

I will try and ask this again.

AleroDrime have you done anything to the trunk to fix any of the rattling? Anything at all?

And those "rod things" you keep talking about are what hold the trunk up then its open.

Afungy I fixed the spot between the alero emblem and the trunk, fixed the tag, and have fixed the rear bumper from rattling. The rattles back there now are the top edge of the trunk where it meets the window and the bottob on the trunk where it meets the bumper, that will be fixed by dynomat hopefully by christmas, by a professional. In the meantime, i have my bass knob adjusted accordingly, and have been planning this project to increase bass and ease the pressure.

After its all matted new rattles usually occur in wierd places, a great way to avoid that would be to give the pressure a release from the trunk

[Afugy]

Well those rods can (should) have other holes to go into to increase the up pressure on the trunk lid. I moved my'n from the bottom hole to the middle hole and it almost stopped the rattle. The only way to hear the rattle now is from the outside with the system up with the windows up and its hard to hear over the rattling of the heat shield that I still need to fix.

The only way to really relieve the pressure in the trunk it to seal the trunk off totaling from the subs, like I had in my old set up. The trunk already has a way of relieving pressure, there should be a vent in passenger side of the trunk, opens WAY easier then the trunk.

Think, does lowering your back seats really cause the that much of a change in loudness, then why would moving just the port make that big of a difference. What I am really worried about is how setting the port this way and not having a bandpass box will effect SQ and giving you unwanted cancellations (sounding like crap) and you put all that time and money into it for nothing.

[AleroDrime]

yes putting the seat down does increase the bass just like poping the turnk reduces it, illl look into what you said, about movie the supports and ill try to get a pic of what im ment by rods

[meadus101]

I've thought about this to releive the pressure in the trunk as well. stop some of the super rattling that goes on.

[YALEROYNOT]

Originally Posted by AleroDrime

ya'll are too quick to jump to conclusions. I know the rear 1/4s was a joke. Those are not the rods I'm talking about matter of fact i dont see them in your picture, rods probably isnt the proper term anyways. Yaleroynot, nice!, those ports look alot like mine, i dont see any kinda cutting underneath though.
Big issue now is this, I pulled everthing to the top deck apart to day only broke one of those plastic clips. But the driverside of the rear deck wouldnt pull out, id almost have to say it was glued back there, the passengers side was free. But rather than get anxiouse, rush, and break somting i popped it all back together, and spent time wiping the door seals clean

the rods arent there in the picture, cause he got rid of them ahd replaced them with the gas shock, as for cuttin the metal ? how do you think the port got thru the rear deck or the subs got there ? the holes arent there from the factory for 10" subs in the deck or future ports ?

before cutting and with rods installed







you gota do a little cutting









here is a link to the site/thread (you gota sign up for the site to see it)

www.fiberglassforums.com

[AleroDrime]

ok those look like the ones i meant, so what happens if those get cut for the ports, i loose the upwards pressure on the lid?

[mach3]

I'm confused with what you're trying to achieve. If you want better SQ, this is definitely not going to make it any better, if anything it will be worst.

If you're trying to get more bass, what you're doing is a lot of work for very little gain. The concept of porting is to allow the subs to work harder with less power hence more bass, but keep in mind that sound quality will not be as good as a sealed enclosure. Also, you shouldn't just create ports without consulting the manufacturer's specs for your subs. Do some research on enclosure tuning before you invest a ton of time and money into it.

At the end of the day you want to listen to music, not noise.

Originally Posted by AleroDrime

i want my car too sound good from everywhere in the car if i was focused on the drivers seat id wear a set of those bose headphones

[Afugy]

Originally Posted by mach3

The concept of porting is to allow the subs to work harder with less power hence more bass, but keep in mind that sound quality will not be as good as a sealed enclosure.

Not true, ported boxes just take more work and know how to make them sound as good as a seal box.

http://www.audiopulse.com/know-how/s...out-subwoofers

# 4 Ported boxes don’t sound as good as sealed

In most cases this is strictly a result of linear response vs non-linear response and it could go both ways. 4th order systems or “vented” boxes tend to be far more particular to volume, port size and length and the driver TPS’s rather than sealed systems. Misalignments are therefore amplified and greatly affect the frequency response. Often times in car audio, ported boxes are not tuned low enough, or the volume is too large and there is a large peak in the frequency response from literately too much sensitivity or SPL at a very narrow frequency band. The other issue is if the driver does not have enough BL or has too high of a Qts and becomes under damped at resonance. This again leads to drastic peaks at the resonating frequency; however in this case, the driver will be peaky there regardless of content and it will sound ultimately less dynamic and very bottom heavy. However, a well designed vented box may have considerably lower distortion and higher dynamics than a sealed box because of the added SPL gained from the port without increasing the active driver displacement requirements. Sealed systems evoke the most non-linear driver behavior to reach any given SPL, so in fact, they could be the worst sounding system if your SPL demands are considerable. It is important to model a ported design or ask the manufacture for a recommendation. It is also critical to include a high pass filter on the active driver in a ported box for protection.

[AleroDrime]

alright but porting the trunk is different, it creates an escape for pressure in sound, unlike porting the box it will not increase the efficiency of the sub's themselves.

[Afugy]

Wait, what? You just want a port for the trunk that has nothing to do with the sub box port? Just a place for the air to go.