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Old 02-14-2004, 12:24 PM   #1
3.4Alero
 
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Edit by Naich- The Stock rotors that come on the Alero are HORRIBLE. They seem to warp between 12k and 20k... so instead of paying a mechanic to
"turn" or "cut" your rotors every year or so, it will be more cost-effective just to replace the rotors. You can buy rotors at Tirerack (click on the banner on the homepage), http://www.partsforyourcar.com, http://www.rsmracing.com, htp://www.americanperformanceofcolorado.com

1. Remove the cap from the brake reservoir They say to remove some fluid, but I never have, and have had no problems, so it's your call.
2. Put the car up on jack stands and remove the wheel.
3. Use a brake cleaner to clean off the rotors, as brake dust can cause cancer.
4. Remove the bottom caliper bolt. You will have to use an open-ended wrench to hold the slide pin while you remove the bolt.
5. Swing the caliper up away from the pads. Now put a block of wood against the caliper piston, and use a C-clamp to gently push the piston back into the caliper. While you are doing this, watch the fluid in the reservoir so it doesn't spill over the top. Also, watch the piston boot, so that it goes into the caliper evenly. If it doesn't, your best bet will be to get a new caliper, as rebuilds are pretty tough to do yourself.
5. Remove the top bolt, then use a wire hanger or piece of heavy wire to hang the caliper from your suspension. Be careful not to kink or stretch the brake line.
6. Remove the pads, then remove the caliper mounting bracket bolts, then remove the bracket itself. Be sure you know how you removed the bracket, so you put it back on the same way, and put the pads back in correctly.
7. Pull the rotor off, and put the new one on. Put the bracket back on.
8. Put some anti-squeal compoud (available at autozone, advance auto, etc.) on the back of both pads where they touch metal, and let it set up for a couple of minutes.
9. Clean the caliper slide pin and put some high temp. grease on it.
10. Put the pads in, assuring that the inner one is the one with the wear indicator, and the wear indicator is at the top.
11. Reinstall the caliper, put the lid back on the reservoir , and pump the brakes a few times to bring the pads in contact with the rotor. The pedal should feel nice and firm.

Torque specs:
Caliper mounting bolts: 23 ft-lbs
Caliper mounting bracket bolts: 85 ft-lbs
Lug nuts: 100 ft-lbs (tighten in cross pattern)

If I missed anything, someone please correct me.
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Old 02-15-2004, 12:43 AM   #2
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humph lol brake dust causes cancer? interesting, so this means that anyone cleaning there rims is at risk?
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Old 02-15-2004, 08:06 AM   #3
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Hopefully you are not using an air gun to clean off your rims. The dust is only harmful if it gets into your lungs, so once you wet it, everythings cool. It's just like asbestos. It's only bad if it is dry, and then gets airborn.
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Old 04-20-2004, 12:30 PM   #4
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hahah I was worried for a second there, I have tried changing the brakes on my car and got my hands covered in dust...good thing it can't seep through the skin
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Old 04-22-2004, 12:43 PM   #5
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Was just looking through this and it would be nice if someone had like actual pics of what parts were what since I saw a few people asked about replacing rotors. Just might be helpful for people that don't know what's what
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Old 05-03-2004, 08:55 AM   #6
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I will be changing my rotors here very soon, when i do..if nobody had posted pics yet..i will take some and post em'!

-adam-
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Old 04-10-2006, 07:20 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by 3.4Alero@Feb 15 2004, 08:06 AM
Hopefully you are not using an air gun to clean off your rims. The dust is only harmful if it gets into your lungs, so once you wet it, everythings cool. It's just like asbestos. It's only bad if it is dry, and then gets airborn.
sorry to bring up an old thread, but there is some asbestos in brake dust, and I think some cars brake lines are asbestos themselves...so it's not "just like" asbestos.

(plus, I needed a bump for this...gonna be putting in my rotors really soon.
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Old 04-10-2006, 09:47 AM   #8
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what about rear disc brakes???
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Old 04-10-2006, 11:17 AM   #9
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same principle
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Old 04-10-2006, 12:32 PM   #10
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nothing to worry about w/ the e-brake and stuff? it will be my first time changing rotors and pads this week on my rears.
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Old 04-10-2006, 01:01 PM   #11
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Just make sure that you dont have the e-brake on or else you wont be able to get the rotors off because it holds them on. Other than that it's just like the fronts.
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Old 04-19-2006, 01:30 PM   #12
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um....how do you get the caliper bolts off if the corners are rounded?
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holy crap, i just farted at work and the whole office stinks!!!!
RIP to my Alero @ 112000 miles. COD: thrown rod. TOD: 430pm, Dec19, 2011.
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Old 07-29-2006, 11:11 AM   #13
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lol u dont
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Old 07-29-2006, 08:14 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlbinoMonkeyRat
um....how do you get the caliper bolts off if the corners are rounded?

hmmm....weld a length of metal perpendicular to the bolt and twist away?
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Old 07-29-2006, 08:26 PM   #15
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hammer a smaller socket on
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Old 08-01-2006, 05:27 PM   #16
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Ok, I was going to install new pads and rotors myself, but EF that!
Pics of the process would help A LOT!
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Old 08-02-2006, 12:55 PM   #17
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FTW, it's just as easy to change the front brakes and rotors as it is to install the 12" front brakes with the camaro rotors and brackets and corvette calipers.
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Old 04-27-2009, 01:10 PM   #18
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Bump for next week!
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Old 04-27-2009, 01:52 PM   #19
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Yeah cut a coat hanger in half first, a metal one. and make sure you got some 1/2 hardwood lying around.
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Last edited by Ghadsphi : 04-27-2009 at 02:18 PM. Reason: Sorry didn't realize Peeps.
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Old 04-27-2009, 01:57 PM   #20
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And FYI, the bolts are

13mm on the caliper 15mm on the bracket

or in my car's case one side is 13/15 and the other side is 12/13 I really have no idea how that happened
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