04-09-2007, 10:01 PM
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#1
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The Drunk
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Goleta, California
Posts: 770
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Problem installing leds.
Today I was installing some LEDs to replace the cubby light. I decided to use 4 of them so I wouldn't need a resistor, I wired them all in series, they're all definatly + to - . But no go. I don't have a voltmeter unfortunatly since that would make troubleshooting too easy. But I'm pretty sure all the solder joints are fine. Did I put too many in series? Should I split it down to 2 per series?
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04-09-2007, 10:02 PM
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#2
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Gone
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lockport Ny
Posts: 19,244
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what color?
If its red, your gonna need 6 in series to light up. You might have burnt up those 4 trying to do that. (red's are infamously 2.6V)
If blue, then your right w/ the 4. Double check to make sure one of them isn't reversed.... and also try reversing your wires. I've put power on the ground a few times.... just stupid mistakes, that drive you nuts w/ LEDs
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04-09-2007, 10:07 PM
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#3
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The Drunk
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Goleta, California
Posts: 770
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They're blue.
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04-09-2007, 10:08 PM
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#4
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The Drunk
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Goleta, California
Posts: 770
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Package says 3mm Ultra Bright Blue LED 15
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04-09-2007, 10:27 PM
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#5
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Gone
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lockport Ny
Posts: 19,244
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ok. look straight down at the top of them. you should be able to see a small reflective disk. If the disk, yellow/white/gold ish they are working fine, you wired something wrong. If its black, that led is dead in the water, and needs to be replaced.
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04-09-2007, 10:34 PM
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#6
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The Drunk
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Goleta, California
Posts: 770
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Lol, that's going to be a little tougher than it sounds, I got excited and glued them in before testing them. I guess I'm going to head over to my pops and swipe his multimeter...
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04-09-2007, 10:36 PM
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#7
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Gone
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lockport Ny
Posts: 19,244
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thats only really gonna help with checking the power running to your contacts. (making sure its 12V)
You can't really check continuity on them, because they are diodes. If you GET continuity... thats bad.
But i guess if your not getting 12V that would be your first problem.
And yes, you just learned a VERY important first step of any led project. TEST BEFORE YOU MOUNT! haha. ask sat about that one. I'm sure he's profanly yelled about as many times as i have.... ah well. Its a rookie mistake. We all start somewhere. lol
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04-09-2007, 10:44 PM
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#8
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GLS member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 2,733
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as Cherry said, man, testing is key! Hope you get your problem figured out, shame to burn out 4 good LEDs.
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04-09-2007, 11:18 PM
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#9
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,445
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burned out 3 once don't know why but good thing i had back-ups
__________________
DO WORK
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04-09-2007, 11:40 PM
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#10
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Gone
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lockport Ny
Posts: 19,244
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pfft. i've BLOWN UP 16, at once. scared the shait outta me. as soon as i connected power, i heard... sssssSSSSSSSS POP POP POP POP! jumped outta my chair.
to this day, i have no idea what was wired to blow that many... but it was wrong, thats for sure.
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04-10-2007, 12:03 AM
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#11
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V.I.P. Punching Bag
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Lethbridge, Alberta Canada
Posts: 4,313
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cherry is sooo right!!! ALWAYS test b4 installing. i got carried away with my LEDs in my wheel well, killed a fuse without even knowing it and NONE of my LEDs worked.......its all about trial and error......and the error will happen and they suck badly b/c they will happen at the worst possible time, for me, it was 2:00am at -10 degrees C..............ya that was fun!!
also, in my opinion, install them with the resistors......so much easier and you wont run the risk of burning them out so quickly due to the trial and error cause you'll find yourself without LEDs unless your like cherry here and carry like 100 of each damn color at all times!!
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04-10-2007, 12:18 AM
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#12
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The Drunk
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Goleta, California
Posts: 770
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Looks like I probably have a bad solder joint... that or I just couldn't see them in the light. Turns out I only get about 10.5 volts when the engine isn't running so they barely light up then.
At first test I wasn't getting continuity, turns out after a lil wiggling it that it's working again. Guess I'm going to let my poor work slide for now since my cheap soldering iron is just that, cheap... I've used it twice now and it seems to have burnt off half the tip lol.
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04-10-2007, 12:25 AM
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#13
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V.I.P. Punching Bag
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Lethbridge, Alberta Canada
Posts: 4,313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghadsphi
Looks like I probably have a bad solder joint... that or I just couldn't see them in the light. Turns out I only get about 10.5 volts when the engine isn't running so they barely light up then.
At first test I wasn't getting continuity, turns out after a lil wiggling it that it's working again. Guess I'm going to let my poor work slide for now since my cheap soldering iron is just that, cheap... I've used it twice now and it seems to have burnt off half the tip lol.
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dude, ive been using a $2.00 soldering iron and $1.00 solder, lol trust me man, save yourself the effort and just use resistors man. that way you can actually light up your leds with your car shut off
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04-10-2007, 12:40 AM
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#14
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Gone
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lockport Ny
Posts: 19,244
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I haven't really seen a problem either way... series or parallel (no resistor vs resistor) but if there is a problem w/ one of them, they all go. With the way you have it setup.
and yeah, i've been using 3 different soldering irons (3 different temps, but i have no idea which is which till i use it) and a varying degree of solder. some new, some 10 years old. That doesn't matter too much....
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