21" sub in my Trunk - Page 2

Ryan from Ohio · 01-08-2010, 06:58 AM

Unless you got 150 Sq Inches of port forgetaboutit.

Build the box in the trunk and make the port external, like a separate box... Thats will give you enough room then, I think. Like the box could take up the entire trunk, then the port "box" could like connect where the seats fold down and take up the rear seat area. With that kind of port area the port will be long... So its gonna be folded up and probably the size of a 15" pair sub box...

Go sealed. The MF'er is still going to be loud. Sheer cone area will show you that.

AleroB888 · 01-08-2010, 09:17 AM

I would give a damped internal port a try in that situation, get it to load better to the amp, tighter bass, probably, if done right.

JLw7123 · 01-08-2010, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by heineck

1500 wrms

that is it for a 21 inch sub i was thinking of like 6000 watts rms.

worknprog.99 · 01-08-2010, 09:44 AM

this has fail al over it... the car is going to look like a ford taurus driving around cause his uspension will be shot and the trunk scrapping the ground lol

AleroB888 · 01-08-2010, 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AleroB888

I would give a damped internal port a try in that situation, get it to load better to the amp, tighter bass, probably, if done right.

Or try a passive radiator system

Fi-Alero · 01-08-2010, 11:44 AM

I got a feeling this build is going to turn out extremely inefficient.

In order to even mount this sub, it will have to fire up. Firing up in our trunks DO NOT work out for the best. It is somewhat impossible to get the correct size box and the right port area for a 21" sub in our trunks.

On a side note, take pics lol. I want to see how this turns out.

Quote:

that is it for a 21 inch sub i was thinking of like 6000 watts rms..

Size of a sub has nothing to do with rms lol I know of a few 10" subs that could take 28,000 watts rms.

Ryan from Ohio · 01-08-2010, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AleroB888

Or try a passive radiator system

Good luck finding a 21" passive radiator.

AleroB888 · 01-08-2010, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ryan from Ohio

Good luck finding a 21" passive radiator.

I was thinking two 15's, if there's room.

Ian 2000GL LA1 · 01-11-2010, 09:15 PM

damn some of you guys need to look at the trunks again. lol sorry for my absense, yes i know firing in to the trunk lid isnt the best, but i have no choice i cant stand it on its side. as for the port, i have no idea yet, if i could do a passive radiator even a single 15" and knew a way to calculate it , the radiator essentiall acts as a box volume "extender" it causes the 21" to react as if it were in say 10 cubes, only problem with that is the radiator causes more terible ineficiancy with the introduction of bass cancelation, i would do a back seat port but i already went without a back seat when i had my pioneer and it was gay. plus with the 21" the car wont squat too much the pioneer box weighted abot 280 + the 95 lb sub and all the wood i added around it to seal the trunk off. if i did the port in the back seat it would also bump me up a class. i can only run up to 5000W and an equivelent of a kinetik 2400 size aux battery. im going to try to stuff a kinetik 1800 under the hood, now that i have a CAI it might be do-able. ill keep u posted, i just e-mailed a box builder on my perdicament, he should have a solution for the port.

AleroB888 · 01-11-2010, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ian 2000GL LA1

damn some of you guys need to look at the trunks again. lol sorry for my absense, yes i know firing in to the trunk lid isnt the best, but i have no choice i cant stand it on its side. as for the port, i have no idea yet, if i could do a passive radiator even a single 15" and knew a way to calculate it , the radiator essentiall acts as a box volume "extender" it causes the 21" to react as if it were in say 10 cubes, only problem with that is the radiator causes more terible ineficiancy with the introduction of bass cancelation, i would do a back seat port but i already went without a back seat when i had my pioneer and it was gay. plus with the 21" the car wont squat too much the pioneer box weighted abot 280 + the 95 lb sub and all the wood i added around it to seal the trunk off. if i did the port in the back seat it would also bump me up a class. i can only run up to 5000W and an equivelent of a kinetik 2400 size aux battery. im going to try to stuff a kinetik 1800 under the hood, now that i have a CAI it might be do-able. ill keep u posted, i just e-mailed a box builder on my perdicament, he should have a solution for the port.

There is no free lunch on the port size. Passive radiators will not cause cancellation if done correctly, but they would most likely need to be mounted on the side opposite the woofer. Just cave in and go sealed box at this point, it's the most expedient option. Fool with the ports later.

I'd like to know what the Qts of that woof is.

Ian 2000GL LA1 · 01-11-2010, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AleroB888

There is no free lunch on the port size. Passive radiators will not cause cancellation if done correctly, but they would most likely need to be mounted on the side opposite the woofer. Just cave in and go sealed box at this point, it's the most expedient option. Fool with the ports later.

I'd like to know what the Qts of that woof is.

me too or any other spec on it but they wont post it on there site, becouse its the big daddy next to their neo, warden series.

Ryan from Ohio · 01-11-2010, 10:04 PM

You remind me of a guy I built a box for over the summer. 2 15" American bass HDs without enough room. His trunk is way larger than the Alero's.

Good luck on your dream, but I dont see it happening.

Its been my experience not to buy speaker I cant power or fit.

AleroB888 · 01-11-2010, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fi-Alero

..................
Size of a sub has nothing to do with rms lol I know of a few 10" subs that could take 28,000 watts rms.

What would be the cone excursion at that point? Link to one of them, sounds interesting.

Ian 2000GL LA1 · 01-11-2010, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ryan from Ohio

You remind me of a guy I built a box for over the summer. 2 15" American bass HDs without enough room. His trunk is way larger than the Alero's.

Good luck on your dream, but I dont see it happening.

Its been my experience not to buy speaker I cant power or fit.

dude don't be a dink. it's about a balance of ports size velocity and tuning it can be done. your just mad becouse u wouldn't try.

and when the f*** did i ever say i didnt have the power? i have enough batteries to run a 3500W amp, im getting the amp in two weeks.

the SUB IS 1500W RMS. RMS is not based on size it is based on the susspension, and thermal handling capabilities of the coils. almost any sub can do over RMS, it just depends on how long.

i know a guy throwing 15,000W to each of his DC LVL 5 10's and yes i have seen them with my own eyes, the suspension failed and he contacted the owner of the company and they changed stuff.

i guess i won't go into detail too much if this baffles some people, this shit is why i only get on here about once a month becouse of the BS.

/rant

Ryan from Ohio · 01-12-2010, 07:28 AM

My statement was a blanket statement.

I dont suggest people buy subs they cant properly power OR fit.

In your case its fit.

Im well aware of what it would take to fit that sub, I build and design boxes for well over 14 years now.

The bottom line is you need approaximately 250 Sq Inches of port (maybe more even) otherwise you run the risk of port whistle. With that size of port its going to be long. Also the box will need to be big.

Whats the largest box you have fit into an alero? Through the trunk a 2.8 Cubed 12" box with 44 sq in of port was a tight fit... Hell my 6th order Bandpass took up alot of space even.

I cant see you milking much more than 7 cubes out of the Alero trunk.

I know you have a dream, but its seemingly impossible.

That why I said, go sealed. You should be able to fit that in there...