04-06-2008, 11:05 PM
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#21
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636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,875
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they have a dish in them, 9:1 compression, stock CR is 9.7:1
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04-07-2008, 01:42 AM
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#22
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Aleromod's most pointless thread starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Jersey (north and south are 2 diff. states)
Posts: 2,349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redog
^^ OK just wondering.
Sometimes you have to hone, just becuase of the wear factor. Personally I wouldn't really want to hone.
Are they totally stock pistons, or are they dished in any way?
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y wouldn't u want to hone it? it gives u more displacement not much but it does. if u put ur fingernail in the worn spots it needs to get honed plain and simple.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam337
whats with all the useless threads lately?..
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New project 1992 460 big block ford notchback mustang
Goal - Mid 11s all motor.
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04-07-2008, 02:16 AM
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#23
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Aleromod Old Fart & Owner
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Kerrville, Texas
Posts: 8,114
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Are you confused with Boring VS Honing?
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04-07-2008, 09:31 AM
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#24
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636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,875
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I think so, honing just slightly scrapes the sides to make sure things are straight. Boring is used to widen the cylinder to fit .020" - .040" wider pistons. I got a great deal on stock size pistons, so no overbore here.
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04-07-2008, 12:18 PM
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#25
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GLS member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Tx
Posts: 1,295
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yeah I noticed that too....honing and boring.....but do atleast hone the cylinders
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04-07-2008, 02:21 PM
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#26
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GL Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Howell, MI
Posts: 241
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[Ion] C2, if you need some extra hands, im just a hour or so away, id be willing to do some grunt work for ya on the weekends.
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04-09-2008, 01:59 AM
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#27
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[boosted 2.4L]
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Central PA
Posts: 1,537
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where'd you get your pistons from? need a set just like them.
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04-09-2008, 09:09 AM
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#28
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636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,875
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Karo from Car Customs, message him on j-body.org
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04-19-2008, 06:50 PM
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#29
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2Screwy
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 13,238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [ion] C2
$900, it would have been around $1200-1400 if I didn't find nice deals.
I'd love to, but I don't know how much it'd be. One of the rods needs to lose 20 grams anyway. (Stupid design change mid-production left me with 3 rods of a certain weight and one that's 20g's more).
So you've had a place build yours? Did you bring them the engine itself or have them pull/rebuild/install (everything). There's quite a few local places I know around Michigan off XceedSpeed (a Michigan based car forum).
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Sorry i've been lazy on the forums, i pulled the blown motor from the car, and then before i took it to the shop i sold it, so then I picked up a really dirty block and took it to the machine shop, hotboxed it, bored the pistons, done a lot of measuring and time work since we keep running into problems, but for a hot box it was like $45 for the first load and $30 for any additional which at this shop you should be able to do an entire motor in one load, for the bottom end to be assembled and balances it is really like port work you really just need to pick a number and stick with it, because they can get as precise as you want depending on how much money you want to spend. My motor shop told on mine though I could get assembly and a real good balance for about $600. The little shit is what gets expensive real fast though. I bet I got a good 3-4g in the bottom end when all is said and done.....
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04-19-2008, 06:58 PM
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#30
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636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,875
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Speed Industry (a MI performance place) is going to balance and install everything in the short block for about $320, then my friends (10-12 of them) are going to do an epic build on that engine, then put the supercharger and whatnot (header) on, then drop it in.
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04-21-2008, 05:04 PM
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#31
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GL Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: las vegas
Posts: 578
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwhauck
Sorry i've been lazy on the forums, i pulled the blown motor from the car, and then before i took it to the shop i sold it, so then I picked up a really dirty block and took it to the machine shop, hotboxed it, bored the pistons, done a lot of measuring and time work since we keep running into problems, but for a hot box it was like $45 for the first load and $30 for any additional which at this shop you should be able to do an entire motor in one load, for the bottom end to be assembled and balances it is really like port work you really just need to pick a number and stick with it, because they can get as precise as you want depending on how much money you want to spend. My motor shop told on mine though I could get assembly and a real good balance for about $600. The little shit is what gets expensive real fast though. I bet I got a good 3-4g in the bottom end when all is said and done.....
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for the record you don't bore pistons... you bore the cylinder where the pistons go.
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04-21-2008, 05:16 PM
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#32
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636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,875
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lol..
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04-24-2008, 02:21 PM
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#33
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2Screwy
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 13,238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spyhunter
for the record you don't bore pistons... you bore the cylinder where the pistons go.
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yes thank you i was in a hurry........
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04-24-2008, 06:02 PM
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#34
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Aleromod's most pointless thread starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Jersey (north and south are 2 diff. states)
Posts: 2,349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwhauck
yes thank you i was in a hurry........
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^excuse of somebody who doesnt build their own engine
oops got too confused with other thread
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by adam337
whats with all the useless threads lately?..
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New project 1992 460 big block ford notchback mustang
Goal - Mid 11s all motor.
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04-25-2008, 02:47 PM
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#35
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2Screwy
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 13,238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01silveralero
^excuse of somebody who doesnt build their own engine
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Ouch, oh well, i'll be the first to admint, I don't know how to assemble the bottom end of the motor nor do I have the tools to accomplish it and that is why I am paying someone to do that part of the engine build.......
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04-25-2008, 03:09 PM
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#36
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636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,875
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I found out I do have all the tools (well my friend does) to assemble the bottom end, as well as some experience. Hmmmm... I know HOW... I just don't want to.. in case something is screwed up.
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04-27-2008, 06:24 PM
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#37
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636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,875
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I just bought the engine, complete, with about 30k miles on it. Even included the A/C compressor, so my air conditioning will work now! Friend just loaded it up on his truck in OH, heading back up to MI now where we will drop it off at a friend's garage, and build it sometime soon.
Hope to have a forged engine pulling me around everywhere soon! Meth, more boost, drag radials, WOOT! Can't wait for ASS
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04-28-2008, 09:09 PM
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#38
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636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,875
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Here it is.
Hopefully that guy on j-body makes his rebuild tutorial sometime soon.
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04-28-2008, 10:44 PM
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#39
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Boost Guru
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 1,837
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Just make sure when you take bolts/fasteners off you put them all in a little bag and label the bag what they're for. Sounds kinda silly right? Wait 'til you put everything back together and you're missing one bolt for something important...
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04-30-2008, 02:08 PM
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#40
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2Screwy
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 13,238
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i know that feeling, sucks major wang.....
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