08-14-2008, 10:42 AM
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#41
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GLS member
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Location: NY
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not only that but y does the car not overheat either with no fans keep in mind i have new water pump new thermo new guage cluster new resivor tank. um alls i kno about the upper radiator hose caves in when completely cold when car hasnt run for a day.
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08-14-2008, 05:55 PM
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#42
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Location: NY
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pics of radiator hoses
Last edited by irondiezl3 : 05-10-2009 at 11:14 AM.
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08-14-2008, 05:56 PM
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#43
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more pics
Last edited by irondiezl3 : 05-10-2009 at 11:14 AM.
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08-14-2008, 06:12 PM
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#44
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on vacation
Join Date: Aug 2006
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WTF. I have never seen a hose collapse like that before.. there is something wrong with your cooling system lol.. it takes a bit of vaccuum force to make the hose suck in like that.. unless that hose is extremely worn out.. which for some reason I doubt. check the Tstat, i'm not sure how you'd check to make sure its flowing right.. could be your water pump too.. water pumps are like 20 - 30 bucks.
replace them both if you have to lol.. shouldn't total more than 50 bucks if you do it yourself. water pump is -*PIE*- to replace.
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Last edited by Midgear : 08-14-2008 at 06:14 PM.
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08-14-2008, 06:30 PM
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#45
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hoses were fine until i had coolant flush thats when they started doing that. yea this cars a piece of sh*t always sumthin broke just went outside started waxng bam fog light shattered everyweek sumthin new. so maybe i should try new hoses first since the thermo and pump are brand new.
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08-14-2008, 06:38 PM
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#46
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Trying to get it together
Join Date: Aug 2006
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you got air in the system. IE the coolant temp sensor is measuring air temp and not engaging the fan to active. You are not seeing the temp of the actual coolant but the air. When the engine cools off air contracts which creates a vacuum. A collapse hose is the result. Have your system properly bled of air.
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08-14-2008, 06:46 PM
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#47
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on vacation
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^^ there you go..
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08-14-2008, 07:51 PM
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#48
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how is that done can i do it and is it too late cAN there be major damage done? i thought u just take the bleeder valve open it and once coolant comes out steady ur done?
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08-14-2008, 08:09 PM
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#49
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on vacation
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I dont know how its done.. i've never had to "bleed" my system before.. the cooling system on my car has never ever given me any trouble.
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08-14-2008, 09:25 PM
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#50
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Trying to get it together
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gravity fill is the best and cheapest way, the draw back is a long time.
The other way is the bleeder valve located near the belt on the valve cover. theres a small hose running from that to the reservior. With the engine running fill the reservior up, and open the valve, there should be coolant coming out once the eninge starts warming up. continue to monitor the temp and add coolant as necessary. If the stream coming out is solid ie.. no spurt but continuous, then the system has been bled. Be careful since the engine is running, do not wear loose fitting clothes and use a socket, you can use a wrench but the fluid is hot when the stream is continous, if you drop a tool and the belt catches it, you may have to replace the belt and/or pulley(s).
The safest and most reliable way is to create a vacuum in the system using that same valve and suck in the fluid, this may take 1 hour but its the safest way.
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Last edited by super white alero1 : 08-14-2008 at 09:29 PM.
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08-14-2008, 10:15 PM
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#51
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i have done that and there is a constant flow of fluid wtf!!!
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08-14-2008, 10:16 PM
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#52
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on vacation
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^^^ I dont know who's car that is.. but for the love of God clean that engine bay
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08-14-2008, 10:53 PM
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#53
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How long do u have to be sitting at a light before u notice a rise in engine temp. also does it drop down after u start driving again? its not uncommon for a car to experience this rise in engine temp after long idling times. I would have a certified mechanic take a peek at your water pump but I really dont think anything is wrong. my alero has always done it and I have never blown my engine lol
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08-14-2008, 11:36 PM
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#54
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it rises instantly as soon as i stop within 2 minutes usually a minute is all it takes. but again it never oveheates and fans never come on. um after about 3 minutes of driving it goes back don under halfway. but from what ive heard with a 180t it should be between 1/4 and 1/2 and im just peekin below half and thats at highway speeds.
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08-15-2008, 12:30 AM
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#55
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Now a Ford Traitor.
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stuck closed t -stat HAVE T-STAT REPLACED!!
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08-15-2008, 12:35 AM
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#56
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so its either a bad tstat or somehow air in the system?
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08-15-2008, 12:40 AM
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#57
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GX Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: nj
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uhmmm
uhhh yea theirs supposed to be pressure in the tanks the cap should basically pop off when u like get it half way off get a coolant pressure gage and screw it on the tank and put pressure in the system and get a light and check around the motor if u see any leaks or hear air then u kno whare the problem is if it keeps over heating just replace the rad. isint going to hurt anything to just replace the radiator if i ever replace a water pump i usually try to replace the rad. and double check the hoses make sure they arent kinked or anything.
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08-15-2008, 12:44 AM
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#58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irondiezl3
so its either a bad tstat or somehow air in the system?
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ok Its a T - Stat! or a clogged RAD!
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08-15-2008, 12:50 AM
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#59
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ill bring it to my shop tomarrow and post what we found
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08-15-2008, 01:15 AM
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#60
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Now a Ford Traitor.
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kk sounds good
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