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Old 04-13-2010, 11:03 PM   #21
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ok dont get allstate they suck!!! the low ball insurance will fix the 1/4, and really it is fixable, no need to replace it, if you have allstate they will fix it, statefarm might put a 1/4 on the car

but even repairing the 1/4 it could be close to being totaled, but tell me what kind of insurance do you have her low ball company makes baby jesus cry in his manger
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Old 04-13-2010, 11:22 PM   #22
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they aren't.

be an adult, and get allstate

I wanted allstate or state farm, but the wife gets what the wife wants. My parents had allstate for years and had awesome service.

I have full coverage through geico. When I saw her insurance card, it was a hand written form... I'm not expecting this to go smoothly.

Of course to top it all off, I just found out my truck might need new injectors.
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Old 04-14-2010, 09:31 PM   #23
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geico isnt that bad really, and each adjustor is different, some fix some replace, some total, so it all depends on the adjustor, and their body labor is at 48, frame is at 85, its not a bad company
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Old 04-16-2010, 11:49 PM   #24
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Talked to the claims dept today. My deductible is only $100 and they are going to try and get that out of the other insurance company. I'm hoping its low enough that the company will just pay it to avoid hassle. Hell the other person would probably pay that out of pocket.

There aren't any adjusters that are local to me, so it looks like I'm stuck doing the leg work. When I bring it into shops for estimates, is there anything special I should ask or mention?
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Old 04-17-2010, 12:04 AM   #25
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well im sure in the office you will see icar gold certified, ppg certified shop stuff like that, nothing special really
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Old 04-17-2010, 06:11 PM   #26
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Silent would have done it

Hell, So would I.
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Old 04-20-2010, 12:02 PM   #27
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just dont get insurance, when you get in an accident, mug the person that you hit / hit you, and always drive without license plates.
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Old 04-20-2010, 12:28 PM   #28
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Hell, So would I.

note I never said I wouldn't
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Old 04-20-2010, 01:07 PM   #29
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I don't completely understand why you aren't dealing with her insurance company?
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Old 04-24-2010, 08:20 PM   #30
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Just have a junk yard cut off a rear quarter & use the 2 stage panel glue to put it on.A lot of work but is the car worth it? If it is totalled buy it back & fix it.
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Old 04-24-2010, 08:52 PM   #31
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just dont get insurance, when you get in an accident, mug the person that you hit / hit you, and always drive without license plates.


Yep, then go to jail when you get pulled over or get in a wreck and police ask for your license.
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Old 04-24-2010, 11:23 PM   #32
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Just have a junk yard cut off a rear quarter & use the 2 stage panel glue to put it on.A lot of work but is the car worth it? If it is totalled buy it back & fix it.

well your about 40% right, but lets mention that you have to, pre pull the sheet metal first, not to mention tear the car down, remove all the glass the interior, the seats, the 1/4 trim, package shelf

and then you spend about a good day of drilling EVERY spot weld and the using a torch to break up the panle bond, and then doing the same thing on the junk yard section

and then fixing all the dents, and then fixing all the dents your going to put in the junk yard panle from removing it from the section

and then dry fitting the panle, and then putting all the parts back on to make sure you have nice gaps, and then taking it back off, to prep the mating flanges and the junk yard panle for panle bond

and then panle bond goes on both new panle and the cars mating flanges, do you over clamp?? no you dont panle bond has glass beads in it that you hear crack when clamped to tight and then the panle bond is no goog and will not bond

and then on the d-pillar or sail panle what kind of joint is used, well you can do a open butt, open butt with backing, a lap joint, a lap joint with spot welds

so please dont make it sound so easy when its not
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Old 04-25-2010, 12:41 AM   #33
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+1 More noob Owned by Bdyman.
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Old 04-25-2010, 11:03 PM   #34
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Yea... I'm adventerous when it comes to repairs, but not THAT adventerous. Besides, my wife actually needs to use the car and she'd be pissed if I had it in pieces for the 6 months it would take me to get all of that sorted out (factoring in my typical luck).

I haven't had a chance to bring it into the shop for an estimate, but am going to try this week. The chief bodyman at the shop is my neighbor though, so I'm hoping that will help.

If worse comes to worse, ill just drill the panel, pull it back out and seal and paint the damage.
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Old 04-26-2010, 10:35 PM   #35
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well your about 40% right, but lets mention that you have to, pre pull the sheet metal first, not to mention tear the car down, remove all the glass the interior, the seats, the 1/4 trim, package shelf

and then you spend about a good day of drilling EVERY spot weld and the using a torch to break up the panle bond, and then doing the same thing on the junk yard section

and then fixing all the dents, and then fixing all the dents your going to put in the junk yard panle from removing it from the section

and then dry fitting the panle, and then putting all the parts back on to make sure you have nice gaps, and then taking it back off, to prep the mating flanges and the junk yard panle for panle bond

and then panle bond goes on both new panle and the cars mating flanges, do you over clamp?? no you dont panle bond has glass beads in it that you hear crack when clamped to tight and then the panle bond is no goog and will not bond

and then on the d-pillar or sail panle what kind of joint is used, well you can do a open butt, open butt with backing, a lap joint, a lap joint with spot welds

so please dont make it sound so easy when its not
I DID NOT MAKE ITSOUND EASY as You are not the only body repair specialist on this forum.Just the mention of rear quarter replacement would make any novice shake & I did not go through all the BS steps like You did as He will inquire if it will be done. Any idiot knows that no one would use 2 gallons of bondo to fix that or try pulling it out looking at the hit & rot.....Thanx
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Old 04-26-2010, 10:36 PM   #36
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+1 More noob Owned by Bdyman.
Not a noob as I have been on a lot longer than You wize a_ _
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Old 04-26-2010, 11:39 PM   #37
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I DID NOT MAKE ITSOUND EASY as You are not the only body repair specialist on this forum.Just the mention of rear quarter replacement would make any novice shake & I did not go through all the BS steps like You did as He will inquire if it will be done. Any idiot knows that no one would use 2 gallons of bondo to fix that or try pulling it out looking at the hit & rot.....Thanx


ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, well if you are a tech a tech would know that you always pre pull metal, and pre pull the way the car was hit, i know for a fact i can fix that 1/4, and why would we go and cut the junk yard section our selfs as you stated

when the shop calls the junk yard, they cut the section, and brings it to us, and then we get paid, clean up time, to fix any damage and or rust, well i like posting correct information, your "2 part adhessive" or whatever you called it is not informative enough for people that are not in the automotive field

so you saying your a tech and or journeyman i highly doubt it, if you are good for you then post correct info, post correct procedures, post i-car correct procsdures, for the "lament" to understand

as a matter of fact i sent this pic to a friend of mine first response from him was "ya ok its fixable" like i said from the get go, and experience also plays into that as well, me i would start at the wheel house pull there, weld one of my plates at the body line and POP watch the dent walk right back out
remove the 1/4 trim, and work the rest of the metal from behind the panle, and then apply a corrosion resistant body wax inside the panel

see stuff like that would tell anyone "hey this guy knows his stuff" you post "2 part product" hey this guys a retard see the difference
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Old 04-28-2010, 04:51 PM   #38
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I finally got a quote. $1200 to repair it minus my $100 deductable.

My wife told her dad about the wreck and he decided that he was just going to buy us a new car, so the hoe is going to be retired by summer. However, since my truck doesn't do winter, I'm hanging on to it for a winter/project car. I can tear down the hoe in the summer while I drive my truck then flip flop in the winter.

I'm going to talk to the adjustor and see how much of a difference in our rates it would make if they don't have to pay out and just live with the dent or try and pull it myself. What would it take to pull this dent out and get the panel back to ~90%? Is it something someone with no body experience could pull off?
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Old 04-29-2010, 08:51 AM   #39
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what good is a truck if it doesn't do winter?
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Old 04-29-2010, 09:14 AM   #40
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what good is a truck if it doesn't do winter?

It does summer REALLY well. Its a 2wd, regular cab 5 spd dakota, so it would suck in snow regardless. Add in the 2/3 drop, wide ass (summer performance) tires and torquey bottom end, and it is literally useless in snow. However all of that makes it a hell of a lot of fun on dry pavement.
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