Milan 10.22.2010

[[ion] C2]

13.5 @ 107


Link to video.



Reasons:

• Can't launch worth shit.
• Low spark advance and high knock retard.

All 2.4 sec 60 foot times. Need something better than street tires, something much wider than what I have now. Also it's been a long time since I've raced. Spark advance was in the range of 9-13, was stupidly low. Had 3-6 degrees of knock retard too for 75% of the run. I'm going to consult Speed Industry's amazing tuner and do some proper dyno tuning, because this sputtering, knocking, high boost, low power stuff has to go.

I should've just filled up with C16 at the track and been done with it, lol.

[cherrington17]

car would be faster, if the driver was lighter

[[ion] C2]

That too. I need to find a skinny chick who's good at driving.

[cherrington17]

Or a way to not eat stick of butter between launches.

Last time I chatted with Nate, he said hes lost 100lbs. So... do whatever hes doing to keep active.

[heineck]

^ a stick of butter ? dood thats baaaaad.

[AleroB888]

Originally Posted by [ion] C2

Reasons:

• Can't launch worth shit.
• Low spark advance and high knock retard.

All 2.4 sec 60 foot times. Need something better than street tires, something much wider than what I have now. Also it's been a long time since I've raced. Spark advance was in the range of 9-13, was stupidly low. Had 3-6 degrees of knock retard too for 75% of the run. I'm going to consult Speed Industry's amazing tuner and do some proper dyno tuning, because this sputtering, knocking, high boost, low power stuff has to go.

I should've just filled up with C16 at the track and been done with it, lol.

Nice run!

Still pretty good, if not exactly what you were expecting. Sometimes wheelspin will make the PCM pull timing even if you have the trac control set to "off," depending how you have your Torque Management set. So simply getting a good solid launch may help that situation.

What run of the day in sequence was that, and did you get a chance to cool down the engine?

[BlackJack]

Three things reference the KR:

1. 2 steps colder than stock on plugs, and gap?

2. Cool your charge a little more (water/meth or nitrous cooler)

3. Increase your octane.

One of those should do the trick. I had mad KR when I was running 91o pump gas. Once I went to a mix of 60% 91octane pump with 40% E85 nearly all of it went away. That mix puts you right about 100 octane.

Beyond that, could be vibrations. Check your scans for consistent KR at specific RPM's vs. TPS.

Good run given those conditions you listed.

[[ion] C2]

Originally Posted by AleroB888

Sometimes wheelspin will make the PCM pull timing even if you have the trac control set to "off," depending how you have your Torque Management set. So simply getting a good solid launch may help that situation.

TM is set up to ignore abuse.

Originally Posted by AleroB888

What run of the day in sequence was that, and did you get a chance to cool down the engine?

First one, as usual. Engine stays nice and cool now that my cooling system is solid... (187-196 F) it never went outside that window before/during/after runs...

Originally Posted by BlackJack

1. 2 steps colder than stock on plugs, and gap?

2 step colder, .030" gap. Plug wear looks ideal.

Originally Posted by BlackJack

2. Cool your charge a little more (water/meth or nitrous cooler)

IATs maintain 60-70 F.

Originally Posted by BlackJack

3. Increase your octane.

I'm going to get 110 next fillup and see if I get any KR (pricey shit though, but it'd be nice to see how much spark I could run with that stuff and how zomgfast I go).

Beyond that, could be vibrations. Check your scans for consistent KR at specific RPM's vs. TPS.
It does seem to get the same-ish KR in the same spots regardless of lowering the advance... however last time I disabeld knock retard and ran a high boost high spark (23 deg advance + 19 psi + 93 octane) I disintegrated a spark plug's ground strap lol.

Originally Posted by BlackJack

Good run given those conditions you listed.

I expected about this time to happen. I'll get the tune sorted out and get back. I have the hardware for low 12s and beyond, just need to put it to use.

[lord2heart]

nice!

[[ion] C2]

UPDATE

So I had it tuned on 100 octane and running amazingly with zero knock and 23 degrees of advance... seriously it felt beast. Then I ran out of money. I went to the track on 93 octane today with the 100 tune and of course experienced phenomenal knock retard throughout the entire run. Still ran 13.8 with a 2.4 60'.

Going to dyno tune it and go back in the spring and finally get a 12.8 or better with 100 octane and no knock.

[Vic28]

Damn idk how I missed this thread...That 60 foot killing those numbers, get some radials atleast. I wished the video was closer or that guy would juststfu when you launched, ME wanted to hear it

[[ion] C2]

I'm not spinning, I'm rolling off the line slowly. I need to launch it, but with the way the knock is, I'm just waiting 'til I get to the track on 100 octane because the car was running insanely good with that fuel and this tune.

[xXManwhoreXx]

Do you have Anti-lag? Also are you running with full interior and spare tire etc?

[[ion] C2]

Umm no I'm using HPTuners. I wasn't even trying to launch (READ: Put pedal to floor from a stop, not a typical "hold RPM and let boost rise" type launch).

I'm not going to remove everything inside the car or unrealistically remove weight. It's a street car, not an empty shell like the Honda boys like to run. Trunk is empty.

If you looked at the datalog it would be pretty obvious why it's running what it's running. I'm running 23 degrees of advance on 93 octane and 17 psi.. it's holding the maximum knock retard of 6 degrees thoughout the run and I can feel the car struggling. Not sure if you know how seriously that affects performance.

I might go back again Sunday with 100 octane since it runs smooth and powerful with that, but after spending $40 today for one run, I'm not so sure. I'll have to make sure it's running good with no KR on the street before I go try it on the track.

[[ion] C2]

I went back today with 100 octane but the same tune and boost. I could only do one run since I had work and had to bail out quick, which sucked because I could've played with the boost and spark and shift properties a lot. I attempted to launch, pulled a 2.2 60' spinning. Once boost rose I started spinning a ton just before the 1-2 shift so that lost a lot of time there. Also had a full tank and all my tools in the car since I went alone.

Ran 13.4 @ 108. Unfortunately looks like next spring is the next time I'll have a chance to race. I'll be on slicks, with more boost and a perfect spark tune.

Edit: Well... the other drag strip north of here is open til the 28th.. maybe I'll try some stuff there. It's a POS track though.

[spyhunter]

Spy's secret to getting rid of knock retard.

Good high octane gas.

Spy's other secret for running fast.

Slicks. Drag radials are still going to be garbage for you. Grab some M&H's & rip off a 1.6-1.8 60ft and you'll be in the 12's easily, you have the traps for it. You just need to click off at least a 1.8 60ft time.

[[ion] C2]

Yup 100 octane is awesome. I added some more spark today and smoothed things out, and it just keep getting more fun to boost.

Going to run again this year if I can find slicks to borrow, otherwise it'll have to wait til next spring.

I wish 100 octane wasn't so expensive. I love the absolute zero knock, ever.

[Redog]

I have to agree, you need slicks of some kind. I understand your not spinning, but there is something REALLY wrong there dood

I had an OK weekend at the track, first time out all year. Ran a 16.01 first run, did nothing and then ran a 15.13 and a 15.42. Spun all 3 times, but the last time was the worst with the 15.42 (shoulda ran about a 15.20) and I still cut a 2.29 60 on that run.

Crappy runs. At the other track, woulda been in the 14's easy, but I want to run 14's at E-town. Could probably run a high 14 at Atco with a WAI

[[ion] C2]

Originally Posted by Redog

I have to agree, you need slicks of some kind. I understand your not spinning, but there is something REALLY wrong there dood

I am spinning, as mentioned above, during launch and when the boost maximizes at 4400 RPM. I wasn't spinning the time I went when I had full KR being pulled and running like crap. Car felt great this time I was at the track but I spun.

Today on the way home my car puked all its coolant during a WOT run showing off to some Sebring that was tailgating me. Heater went cold and the temps went up to 261 degrees. Pulled over at the nearest exit and it all came out the reservoir. It's been acting up a lot (but I've had hose leaks and things that have allowed coolant to escape/air to join in). After I sealed everything up good (so I think) it's been alright pretty much. I don't remember if I burped it or at least ran it with the cap off after I finally fixed my last hose problem. That's probably what's wrong, but what was occurring before, and occurred tonight, is it seems like whenever I do any decent throttle before the thermostat is open, my car will get hot then cool right back down (burping air or something) but if I hold it WOT it'll get hot and stay hot and burp the air as well as a good amount of coolant too. Tomorrow morning I'm going to attempt to burp the cooling system for like 45 mins just to make sure. It's stupid there's no good way to eliminate air in the LD9 besides run it with the cap off and squeeze hoses and rev it.

[guiguilandry]

Originally Posted by [ion] C2

I am spinning, as mentioned above, during launch and when the boost maximizes at 4400 RPM. I wasn't spinning the time I went when I had full KR being pulled and running like crap. Car felt great this time I was at the track but I spun.

Today on the way home my car puked all its coolant during a WOT run showing off to some Sebring that was tailgating me. Heater went cold and the temps went up to 261 degrees. Pulled over at the nearest exit and it all came out the reservoir. It's been acting up a lot (but I've had hose leaks and things that have allowed coolant to escape/air to join in). After I sealed everything up good (so I think) it's been alright pretty much. I don't remember if I burped it or at least ran it with the cap off after I finally fixed my last hose problem. That's probably what's wrong, but what was occurring before, and occurred tonight, is it seems like whenever I do any decent throttle before the thermostat is open, my car will get hot then cool right back down (burping air or something) but if I hold it WOT it'll get hot and stay hot and burp the air as well as a good amount of coolant too. Tomorrow morning I'm going to attempt to burp the cooling system for like 45 mins just to make sure. It's stupid there's no good way to eliminate air in the LD9 besides run it with the cap off and squeeze hoses and rev it.

There is a way to do it... it's called a airlift it's a tool that make a vacuum in your coolant system thet you plug a hose on the airlift cap wich hold vacuum that has been pre filled with coolant and plunged in a gallon of coolant... so when you open the valve it sucks only the coolant and all the air is out... I had to do it on my G/F cavalier to get all the air out.....