Can somebody please explain subs and amps for me?

[Ryan from Ohio]

I see what is throwing him off, but he didnt take the time to read the manual yet I see.

Its a Class D mono amp. Mono = 1 channel. There just happens to be two sets of outputs for ease of newbness. Just hook each speaker up to each output. Its bridged internally.

[Hectic]

Originally Posted by Ryan from Ohio

I see what is throwing him off, but he didnt take the time to read the manual yet I see.

Its a Class D mono amp. Mono = 1 channel. There just happens to be two sets of outputs for ease of newbness. Just hook each speaker up to each output. Its bridged internally.

I did read the manual, and also looked at specs on several websites. It was the fact that it never said bridged internally, or anything along those lines. Just wasn't understanding. So it would be like this on the speaker terminal:
+(1)
+(2)
-(1)
-(2)

Each number being a sub.

[Ryan from Ohio]

Yes

[Hectic]

What does the size of the fuse in the amp and the one in the wiring kit Gabriel with? How do I know what size fuse I need in the wiring kit?

[JLw7123]

what size power wire are u using also how many watts are u going to have

[Hectic]

Originally Posted by JLw7123

what size power wire are u using also how many watts are u going to have

The one setup I'm looking at is 600W, 4 gauge wire.

The other is a 400RMS p3, so a 400, RMS amp, looking at pioneer GM-7000 or something due to price.

Probably go with the kickers though.

[Cashdollar2009]

General rule of thumb, take the rms value of your amplifier and divide that by 10.

In theory, P=VI... Take your voltage and supplied current, given that everything is 100% efficient, the product of the two would be your wattage.

For example, 12.4V X 32.25A = 400watts.

Realistically, no amplifier is 100% efficient. Also, there are many factors that play a role in impedance rise... That's another story. Nothing for you to really worry about.

For the general rule, take 10V times Total Current to obtain your Desired RMS Value. (10V representing voltage drop, box and impedance rise, amplifier efficiency, etc.)

For you, either 600/10=60A Fuse
or
400/10=40A Fuse.

[JLw7123]

ya i am running an 60 amp fuse and i have 600 watts

[Hectic]

Originally Posted by Cashdollar2009

General rule of thumb, take the rms value of your amplifier and divide that by 10.

In theory, P=VI... Take your voltage and supplied current, given that everything is 100% efficient, the product of the two would be your wattage.

For example, 12.4V X 32.25A = 400watts.

Realistically, no amplifier is 100% efficient. Also, there are many factors that play a role in impedance rise... That's another story. Nothing for you to really worry about.

For the general rule, take 10V times Total Current to obtain your Desired RMS Value. (10V representing voltage drop, box and impedance rise, amplifier efficiency, etc.)

For you, either 600/10=60A Fuse
or
400/10=40A Fuse.

What about the fuse by the battery? Should it be slightly higher then the amps? The one on the amp is 30A, should the one by battery be 35A?

[Cashdollar2009]

Originally Posted by Hectic

What about the fuse by the battery? Should it be slightly higher then the amps? The one on the amp is 30A, should the one by battery be 35A?

If the amplifier is fused with 30A, you won't see any more than 300rms. If the amplifier overheats or something shorts it's internal fusing (30A) will go before any inline fusing (by the battery) will go. Fusing the power cable with a 35 amp fuse will be more than sufficient.

You really need to worry about inline fuse size a lot more when you are running an amplifier that is not internally bridged. In most cases you will not running into these until you start running into the 1500rms and up amplifiers.

Which amplifier are you looking at?

[Hectic]

Originally Posted by Cashdollar2009

If the amplifier is fused with 30A, you won't see any more than 300rms. If the amplifier overheats or something shorts it's internal fusing (30A) will go before any inline fusing (by the battery) will go. Fusing the power cable with a 35 amp fuse will be more than sufficient.

You really need to worry about inline fuse size a lot more when you are running an amplifier that is not internally bridged. In most cases you will not running into these until you start running into the 1500rms and up amplifiers.

Which amplifier are you looking at?

It's the kenwood kac-6104d, the one in the package on te first page from Sonic. I like doing research and asking questions before I buy, so I atleast have an idea of what I'm doing. The package comes with a 60A fuse, and judging from what you have said, that doesn't matter so much, an will still protect the battery.

Edit:

I'm still confused with how to wire the subs to the amp. But I think i got it. Since there are 2 sets of terminals, it would be one set per sub, lowering it to a 2ohm load.

[Cashdollar2009]

Originally Posted by Hectic

It's the kenwood kac-6104d, the one in the package on te first page from Sonic. I like doing research and asking questions before I buy, so I atleast have an idea of what I'm doing. The package comes with a 60A fuse, and judging from what you have said, that doesn't matter so much, an will still protect the battery.

Edit:

I'm still confused with how to wire the subs to the amp. But I think i got it. Since there are 2 sets of terminals, it would be one set per sub, lowering it to a 2ohm load.

I just looked into your setup. The amplifier is rated at 300watts @ 2-ohms. This is our goal. 600 watts is the MAX rating. NEVER go by the max point. This will be a selling point. I promise. That amplifier will never produce 600 watts clean for any extended amount of time. The circuitry will simply not handle it.

Here is a quick paint job for your wiring. Not too overly complicated my friend. Just get it for the first time and you'll be fine.

This amplifier is "Internally Bridged" which basically means that the +'s and connected and the -'s are connected to the other one inside of the amplifier to make wiring easy. This will give your amplifier a 2-ohm final load, making it safe to run.

[Hectic]

Originally Posted by Cashdollar2009

I just looked into your setup. The amplifier is rated at 300watts @ 2-ohms. This is our goal. 600 watts is the MAX rating. NEVER go by the max point. This will be a selling point. I promise. That amplifier will never produce 600 watts clean for any extended amount of time. The circuitry will simply not handle it.

Here is a quick paint job for your wiring. Not too overly complicated my friend. Just get it for the first time and you'll be fine.

This amplifier is "Internally Bridged" which basically means that the +'s and connected and the -'s are connected to the other one inside of the amplifier to make wiring easy. This will give your amplifier a 2-ohm final load, making it safe to run.

I know it was 300 RMS, 600 peak.

The 60A fuse that I asked about was the one that comes with the wiring kit in the package, that goes by the battery. Is that going to be good enough? Or would I need one closer to the amps 30A's

[Cashdollar2009]

The wiring kit that comes with it claims 4-gauge but i'm sure it's more along the lines of 6-gauge. Still more than enough. Basically, the fuse provided is in relation to the size wire. 60A is fine on the power wire. If the amplifier draws too much current through the wire (more than the wire is rated to pass) then it will heat up and begin melting the insulation and more than likely start a fire. This is what the fuse is for, to "pop" before that amount of current even has the chance to pass through. You will have no worries in this case. Just run your power wire correctly and fuse it with the provided 60A fuse. They wouldn't sell it like that if it was too high. The only time you really have to worry again is in higher powered applications and/or if you are buying materials separate in attempts to save some money. Or they simply don't provides kits for such as the two runs of 2/0 I have ran in my car.

[Hectic]

Originally Posted by Cashdollar2009

The wiring kit that comes with it claims 4-gauge but i'm sure it's more along the lines of 6-gauge. Still more than enough. Basically, the fuse provided is in relation to the size wire. 60A is fine on the power wire. If the amplifier draws too much current through the wire (more than the wire is rated to pass) then it will heat up and begin melting the insulation and more than likely start a fire. This is what the fuse is for, to "pop" before that amount of current even has the chance to pass through. You will have no worries in this case. Just run your power wire correctly and fuse it with the provided 60A fuse. They wouldn't sell it like that if it was too high. The only time you really have to worry again is in higher powered applications and/or if you are buying materials separate in attempts to save some money. Or they simply don't provides kits for such as the two runs of 2/0 I have ran in my car.

Okay, thank you so much for the help.

Only reason I'm ordering online is because I can get them cheaper from sonics, including shipping, taxes and duty, than I could buy brand new around here. I'd rather buy a kit like this as I already know it's all "matched" to run for an optimal setup.

[Cashdollar2009]

Not a problem man, just helping as I would have loved to have been helped when I first got started out.

And not a bad idea of buying a kit for your first setup. You're gonna be more than happy when all is said and done. Just take your time and do things neatly. You'll appreciate it much more in the long-run.

And ordering online is the way to do it! I have probably close to $4,000.00 retail in my car now between setups. Have I payed that much? Not a chance. I estimate it out to be close to $1500.00-$1700.00. And out of that, maybe $600.00 of it out of my pocket. Rest of it from doing close to 30 installs ranging from head units to full subwoofer/ component setups for a little profit. Check out eBay too. Sonicelectronix has an eBay store where a lot of times you can get the same packages for a little less. Good luck and keep us updated here once you get started!

[Hectic]

Originally Posted by Cashdollar2009

Not a problem man, just helping as I would have loved to have been helped when I first got started out.

And not a bad idea of buying a kit for your first setup. You're gonna be more than happy when all is said and done. Just take your time and do things neatly. You'll appreciate it much more in the long-run.

And ordering online is the way to do it! I have probably close to $4,000.00 retail in my car now between setups. Have I payed that much? Not a chance. I estimate it out to be close to $1500.00-$1700.00. And out of that, maybe $600.00 of it out of my pocket. Rest of it from doing close to 30 installs ranging from head units to full subwoofer/ component setups for a little profit. Check out eBay too. Sonicelectronix has an eBay store where a lot of times you can get the same packages for a little less. Good luck and keep us updated here once you get started!

Will do. Won't be ordering it until I find a job again, or my dad decides to get me a grad present, which probably won't happen.

Also one last question. How would I go about hooking up a second amp, that would not be connected to the first. I got an old Phoenix Gold SA1.4x laying around that might be able to give my speakers a little juice. I just don't know the exact specs of it, and can't find them ANYWHERE!

[Cashdollar2009]

You would want to look into aftermarket speakers if you would want to send more juice to them The factory ones honestly, would die on any more than head unit power. lol

Honestly in car audio, overkill is ftw. I'd look into a 1/0 kit somewhere and just do a run from the front battery to the rear. From here find a 1/0 to dual 4gauge distribution block and do a single run of positive from the distribution block to each amplifier.

[Hectic]

Originally Posted by Cashdollar2009

You would want to look into aftermarket speakers if you would want to send more juice to them The factory ones honestly, would die on any more than head unit power. lol

Honestly in car audio, overkill is ftw. I'd look into a 1/0 kit somewhere and just do a run from the front battery to the rear. From here find a 1/0 to dual 4gauge distribution block and do a single run of positive from the distribution block to each amplifier.

I do have aftermarkets. Lol. Couldn't stand the shitty quality of the GX stock speakers.

Have JL Audio Evolution TR-690's and TR-400's in place. Don't find the head unit gives them enough power. When I adjust the balance to just one side, it gets much clearer.

I've had them in for a while, and haven't really played around with the settings of the head unit on them, except for crossovers. I'm gonna adjust the gain tomorrow hen I have time and see if that helps some more.

[clutch1]

Originally Posted by Ryan from Ohio

I see what is throwing him off, but he didnt take the time to read the manual yet I see.

Its a Class D mono amp. Mono = 1 channel. There just happens to be two sets of outputs for ease of newbness. Just hook each speaker up to each output. Its bridged internally.

That's interesting.. never seen that before.

Then again I don't look around much.. good to know for the future though.