05-14-2008, 01:11 AM
|
#1
|
GX Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: ohio
Posts: 66
|
battery light
When I accelerate fast like up a on ramp to the highway my battery light comes on.
what causes that?
slipping belt maybe? alternator going out? battery problem?
what do i check and how?
|
|
|
05-14-2008, 01:35 AM
|
#2
|
Aleromod's most pointless thread starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Jersey (north and south are 2 diff. states)
Posts: 2,349
|
start ur car disconnect the battery it should stay running if not ur problem is the alternator.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by adam337
whats with all the useless threads lately?..
|
New project 1992 460 big block ford notchback mustang
Goal - Mid 11s all motor.
|
|
|
05-14-2008, 09:27 AM
|
#3
|
V.I.P. Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 325
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by 01silveralero
start ur car disconnect the battery it should stay running if not ur problem is the alternator.
|
DONT DO THAT.. ur battery acts like a surge superssor... u could f**k up a few things if it is not the alternator
go to advance auto parts we do free full charging system checks usually about 5-10 min to test
__________________
2002 4door alero 2.2 ecotech Two tone Pearl White upper, Graphite Lower.
|
|
|
05-14-2008, 12:34 PM
|
#4
|
Aleromod's most pointless thread starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Jersey (north and south are 2 diff. states)
Posts: 2,349
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitetigerboi83
DONT DO THAT.. ur battery acts like a surge superssor... u could f**k up a few things if it is not the alternator
go to advance auto parts we do free full charging system checks usually about 5-10 min to test
|
no incorrect the battery is only to START the car. its not like saying keep it disconnected the whole time u go out somewhere.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by adam337
whats with all the useless threads lately?..
|
New project 1992 460 big block ford notchback mustang
Goal - Mid 11s all motor.
|
|
|
05-14-2008, 12:51 PM
|
#5
|
I drive a JEEP!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Salisbury, Maryland
Posts: 6,388
|
One Simple Battery Test:
1) Connect the voltmeter directly across the "Battery Terminals". (NOT to the Cable Clamps)
2) While watching the meter, Start the Car.
3) The Battery Voltage should Never fall below about 10 Volts.
If it does:
a) The battery is either "Low in Charge".
b) Or The Battery is "Low in Water".
(The water leven in the battery should be about 1/4 of an inch, Above the Plates.)
"DO NOT" Fill it up FULL.
c) Or The battery has a "High Internal Resistance".
(Possibly Sulfided Plates and probably Time for New Battery?)
**NOW Repeat This Test BUT:
1) Connect the voltmeter directly across the "Battery Clamps on the Battery Cables".
2) This Reading should be Within 0.1 Volt Maximum, the Same as 3 Above.
***If NOT, Clean Battery Terminals and Clamps.
2a)If Necessary, Repeat Test to Varify it is now OK.
**NOW Repeat This Test Again, BUT:
1) Connect the Voltmeter Directly Across the Positive Terminal of the Starter and it Case Ground.
2) If the voltmeter reading is More than 1/2 Volts Lower than the Previous Test,
** You Probably have a Cable or Connectorp Problem!
Check the Connections between the Cable and the Cable Connectors. ON BOTH ENDS.
One Very Simple Alternator Test:
1) Start Car and run at a normal idle.
2) Connect a Voltmeter Directly Across the battery Terminals.
3) Turn on Headlights to High Beam.
4) check the battery Voltage.
*** The Battery voltage Should read between about 13.8 to 14.2 volts. (Possibly up to 14.5 Volts.)
5) Increase motor speed to about 1500 RPM. The Alternator should now produce a battery voltage between 14.2 and 14.6
Volts.
*** If it is Lower than 14.2 volts, the Alternator probably has one or more Bad Diodes.
6) Now, Maintain the 1500 RPM and Turn off the Headlights. Run this test for One Full Minute.
"The Battery Voltage should NEVER Exceed about 14.8 Volts".
***If it Does, the Alternators Voltage Regulator is probably Faulty, OVER CHARGING the Battery.
These Test are "Meant to be a Guideline". The Voltage Measurements above may not be accurate in all cases.
For Example: "A Bad Starter Could Easily Pull the battery BELOW that 10 Volts".
It is Impossible to take into account, All Possible Situations.
__________________
|
|
|
05-14-2008, 02:15 PM
|
#6
|
GX Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: ohio
Posts: 66
|
I still don't know why the battery light would only come on at acceleration.
why does that happen, anyone seen this before?
|
|
|
05-14-2008, 02:19 PM
|
#7
|
636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,876
|
see above response? check it out and see if that tells you anything
|
|
|
05-14-2008, 02:23 PM
|
#8
|
I drive a JEEP!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Salisbury, Maryland
Posts: 6,388
|
I think either your battery is dead or you have a bad alternator. The battery light is lighting for one of two reasons. Either you have a problem with the charging system (which includes everything) or you have a problem with the associated sensor. What I would do is have my battery tested first to make sure it is in fact good. If that checks out then I would get the alternator tested. If it is bad I would go for a bigger one since you have to replace it anyway.
__________________
|
|
|
05-14-2008, 02:24 PM
|
#9
|
GX Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: ohio
Posts: 66
|
Thanks i'll have it checked out.
|
|
|
05-15-2008, 12:51 AM
|
#10
|
Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Grove, IL
Posts: 5,002
|
The official info...
Quote:
Originally Posted by GM
Charge Indicator
The charge indicator in the instrument cluster turns ON if the ignition is ON and the engine is not running. When the engine starts, the indicator should turn OFF. If the indicator turns ON and remains ON when the engine is running, there is a fault in the charging system. The charge indicator does not identify what type of fault the PCM detects. The charge indicator also turns ON while the engine is running if the system voltage is too high or too low.
|
__________________
Cliff Scott
2004 Alero GX w/sport pkg - Sold, living somewhere in WI now.
2011 Saab 9-5 Turbo4 M6
2004 Corvette Convertible M6
1994 Chevy Beretta - Quad4/M5
|
|
|
05-15-2008, 11:54 AM
|
#11
|
GX Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: ohio
Posts: 66
|
so what youre saying is when under acceleration it might be under/over charging.
|
|
|
05-15-2008, 11:59 AM
|
#12
|
636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,876
|
ya, have it checked out
|
|
|
05-16-2008, 12:39 AM
|
#13
|
Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Grove, IL
Posts: 5,002
|
or for some reason the voltage regulator is signaling to the PCM through the "f" terminal that there is a problem.
__________________
Cliff Scott
2004 Alero GX w/sport pkg - Sold, living somewhere in WI now.
2011 Saab 9-5 Turbo4 M6
2004 Corvette Convertible M6
1994 Chevy Beretta - Quad4/M5
|
|
|
05-16-2008, 08:12 AM
|
#14
|
GX Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: ohio
Posts: 66
|
took it to the zone yesterday and the battery checked out good.
he thinks the voltage regulator is going bad because it went from a peak of 140 amps to 1 amp fluctuating all through the test.
So i guess it's time to change the alternator and they aint too cheap.
|
|
|
05-16-2008, 09:24 AM
|
#15
|
I drive a JEEP!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Salisbury, Maryland
Posts: 6,388
|
The Cliffster nailed it.
Well like I said if you got to get a new one then you might as well go bigger.
__________________
|
|
|
05-16-2008, 10:23 AM
|
#16
|
Gone
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lockport Ny
Posts: 19,244
|
mralternator.com has one(high output) for i believe 250, with a lifetime warrenty...
|
|
|
05-16-2008, 01:44 PM
|
#17
|
Aleromod's most pointless thread starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Jersey (north and south are 2 diff. states)
Posts: 2,349
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by cherrington17
mralternator.com has one(high output) for i believe 250, with a lifetime warrenty...
|
thats more than at autozone.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by adam337
whats with all the useless threads lately?..
|
New project 1992 460 big block ford notchback mustang
Goal - Mid 11s all motor.
|
|
|
05-16-2008, 02:30 PM
|
#18
|
GX Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: ohio
Posts: 66
|
I don't need to go bigger, no real advantage for me.
I can spend 125 at the zone and get a lifetime warrenty.
|
|
|
05-21-2008, 07:08 PM
|
#19
|
GX Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: ohio
Posts: 66
|
today the car stalled and died while driving and i hadn't changed the alt yet, so i did today after that !
while it was off i had it checked again and this time it checked good and they told me their other machine had been acting up lately and could have been wrong the last time i had it checked.
so i put it back on and had the battery checked and it also was good.
took it to the dealer and the ehad mech said it all checked out good too.
But after i got it home i found out something very important, the light that came on before wasn't the battery light at all it was the low coolant light ( looked like a battery)
I chewcked the coolant tank it it was very low, added water to it and now i'm hoping that it's ok now.
|
|
|
05-21-2008, 07:28 PM
|
#20
|
GX Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 63
|
Ha, I remember when my low coolant came on and I looked and couldn't tell either. Took me three times to see it before I realized it had to be coolant bahaha.
__________________
There are no ceilings where we are.
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:31 PM.
|