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Old 04-06-2005, 02:17 PM   #41
jiffy
 
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pm sent.

yea, i think interconnects are RCA's. Dude, my brain is fried right now, I'm talking about all the wire covers and stuff that comes with the kits.
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Old 04-06-2005, 02:31 PM   #42
tenny
 
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wire cover is called split loom, use it under the hood and wherever else you want to use it, only place it's "required" is under the hood (i didnt bother to even put it there lol
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Old 04-06-2005, 02:38 PM   #43
jiffy
 
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lol, ok still the wrong names. I got the package from the kit. Spade lugs, connectors, snap grommet, and ring terminals.

I know the ring terminals are for the + battery post and the ground. Thats about all I know.

And, this grommet thing is not happening. Gm greatfuly used the same color tape as the color of the grommet, so I can't tell whats grommet and tape. I think I kinda got the hanger in, but there is no way the 8ga wire is going with it.

issed:
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Old 04-06-2005, 02:49 PM   #44
jiffy
 
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EDIT---
potty mouth
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Old 04-06-2005, 03:17 PM   #45
tenny
 
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put a slit in it with a knife, the wires go right through the middle, just do it near the edge and you'll be fine.
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Old 04-06-2005, 04:15 PM   #46
jiffy
 
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Finally.

Only took 3.5 hours and a cut arm, but I got that power wire through the grommet. Hopefully I didn't cut any wires.

Once it was through I had to struggle for a while to get the duct tape off the end of the hanger, so I could pull the hanger back out through the grommet, but eventually I got it.

I then ran the wire along the drivers side back into the trunk. Right now the wire is loose on both ends because I didn't get a chance to solder anything to connect it to the battery, and because I'm not 100% certain where I am putting the amp, but a good idea just hit me for that.

I'd like to thank everyone so far (especially you tenny) for the help in getting this project going.

Eag - your pics were a huge help too.

I still got some work to do on my box, and then on some sort of mounting board/amp rack, but running speaker wire will be my next task.

Seeing as I had this much trouble with the grommet, what should I expect for working with wires behind the HU? Is it fairly easy to see which are the speaker wires and which are other wires?

Thanks again everyone.
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Old 04-06-2005, 07:05 PM   #47
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Just a word of advice. Soldering the power wire can actually cause more damage. You will notice that no wires in a car are soldered. This includes the high gauge power wires. Copper is very prone to oxidation. When you add heat to the joint for soldering the resin in the solder will clean the oxidation. This allows for a good joint. Unfortunately, the joint will now be three times as likely to oxidize. All soldered joints in a vehicle have to use a anti-humidity coating to prevent this. Our coating (PC1) is mixed in with the flux during the soldering process for the pcb boards. Without this coating your joint will be more likely to build up corrosion, reduce your voltage, and increase the amperage pulled. Possibly resulting in a fire. A soldered joint may also cause resistance and increase the amperage. If you do solder the joint, be sure to get a high wattage soldering iron. A 8-0 gauge wire will take alot of heat to solder efficiently. The copper has to achieve 700 degrees for proper joining, or cold solders will occur. If the sodler looks dull or pitted then get more heat and re solder the connection. It should have a very shiny, smooth appearance to it.
otherwise, invest the soldering iron money on a good crimp tool. They can be picked up at radio shack for uder ten dollars.
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Old 04-06-2005, 07:18 PM   #48
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Mike - Definitely glad you posted that. My dad will have a good crimping tool at work, so I'll probably just swing by and crimp my connections there.

Looks like it was a good thing I couldn't find my iron...
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Old 04-06-2005, 07:41 PM   #49
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No problem. I use to solder everything in my car as well. Freaked me out the first time I learned otherwise.
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Old 04-07-2005, 10:24 AM   #50
jiffy
 
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My next question is how can I tell what wires are the speaker wires, what is the + and - , and which are front/rears?

Also, is electrical tape an ok way to connect spliced speaker wire?
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Old 04-07-2005, 07:38 PM   #51
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AARRRRRRGGHHHH, I just went through and purged all the wiring data off my memory stick. Sorry, you can use electrical tape after splicing wires but two things:

1) better off to just use crimp connecters, or

2) strip back enough wire to be able to tie a reef knot in place and then pig tail back.

if you are going to do this fork over the cash for good electrical tape, I mean the $5-6 a roll (scotch super 88) not the .99$ s*** from wal mart.

have fun
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Old 04-08-2005, 12:32 AM   #52
tenny
 
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dont use electrical tape, do it properly.

solder all speaker conncetions and use heat shrink tubing on them, you only want to have to do this once!
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Old 04-22-2005, 08:09 AM   #53
jiffy
 
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School has been INSANE and I haven't had time to get this stuff installed yet. Hopefully the weather stays nice today and I will get it done today. The amp is going behind the carpet in the trunk, I cut a board to mount it to over the weekend.

There are some pieces that came with the amp kit, that I don't know what they are for, so if someone can tell me what to use these things for, id appreciate it.

Also, there are 2 O rings, one for the power wire and one for the ground. One has a larger diameter than the other, so which one do I use where?

Off the top of my head, I assume the 3 crow's feet are for the Power, Ground, and Remote Turn on (the crow feet go into the amp). I'm not to sure about the other connectors.
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Old 04-22-2005, 11:14 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally posted by snake_eyes2+Apr 7 2005, 06:38 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(snake_eyes2 @ Apr 7 2005, 06:38 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'>AARRRRRRGGHHHH, I just went through and purged all the wiring data off my memory stick. Sorry, you can use electrical tape after splicing wires but two things:

1) better off to just use crimp connecters, or

2) strip back enough wire to be able to tie a reef knot in place and then pig tail back.

if you are going to do this fork over the cash for good electrical tape, I mean the $5-6 a roll (scotch super 88) not the .99$ s*** from wal mart.

have fun
[/b]



<!--QuoteBegin-tenny
@Apr 7 2005, 11:32 PM
dont use electrical tape, do it properly.

solder all speaker conncetions and use heat shrink tubing on them, you only want to have to do this once!
[/quote]


I forgot to state that #2) is when soldering, but with little or no skill crimp connections are the easiest. Sorry for the confusion

Jiffy)

The little rubber chummies (technical name ) slid on to the wire before you crimp the temination end on to make it look all pretty like!

By Oring do you mean gromments for passing throught the fire wall?

Anyway the crimp/butt connectors are used for spicing two ends together, like high level imput from HU to high level adapter used by the amp. As an example (I have read the whole topic and know that LOC are being used :P )

When I get home I will look to see if I still have the wiring diagram from alldata and I will post in here if I do.

Just wondering I got 8 gauge wire through with out having to cut anything, am I the only one?
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Old 04-22-2005, 11:34 AM   #55
jiffy
 
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This project has been ongoing/sitting in my house for too long, so I'm determined to get it done today and unless it rains, I've got all day to do it.

I got a crimper and a borrowed a soldering iron since I lost mine.

snakeeyes - thanks for the heads up on what the pieces are for.

The O rings, are the things used to put a bolt through, like to ground one wire, and to hold the power wire to the battery. I too am using 8ga wire, and the only thing I had to cut was the tape that was surrounding the grommet.
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Old 04-22-2005, 11:59 AM   #56
jiffy
 
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ok, I was wrong about the crow's feet things. They don't go into the amp on the power/ground/remote turn on wires. What on earth are those for?
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Old 04-22-2005, 05:26 PM   #57
jiffy
 
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It's in!!! I got the amp installed today, minus the remote turn on wire. I had to buy a low voltage trigger and I didn't get a chance to install that today but that should go in tomorrow.

I still need to finish my sub box, and I'm gonna do that today. Aside from my horror story with getting the power wire through the grommet, everything else has gone very smoothly. I never figured out what those couple crow's feet things were for though...

I can't thank everyone enough, and I promise to do a real writeup to collect all the information in this post into a how to for others to read.

Thanks again (pics comming soon).
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Old 04-25-2005, 04:18 PM   #58
jiffy
 
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Mother F*cker.

It's about 35 degrees outside right now, and I'm trying to hook up my remote turn on lead to no avail.

I bought a low voltage trigger, but I need to program it first by giving it one pulse from a 12V source. Apparently the battery or the amp's power wire doesn't work as a 12V source for this thing.

I really don't want to have to be tearing anything else apart in my car, so can someone tell me what I can use to program this thing before I break the thing.

EDIT---
Maybe i just found the answer myself...
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Old 04-25-2005, 04:24 PM   #59
jiffy
 
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Also, I couldn't figure out how to get the original battery post out, so look at what the retard me had to do. How the hell do I get the post out (second pic).
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Old 04-25-2005, 07:23 PM   #60
jiffy
 
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Its in, kinda. I did a temporary install, still need to finish my box off and there is a small bit of air leaking too, but I got everything running.

Problem though, the amp shuts off when I turn the volume up. I started a new thread about it

::happy and upset::
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