Twincharging...

[[ion] C2]

It's an SRT-4 powertrain... how the heck would that help you turbocharge yours? Displacement means nothing when comparing engines for compatibility. The 2.4L in that is NOTHING like the 2.4L in this, besides that it moves the same volume of air per revolution.

PT Cruisers are nasty, ugly cars and should never have come factory with a turbocharger. Sickening.

[NickAlero2000]

lol
just a thought...i dont know much about turbo's, so I'm just looking for starting points and trying to find a place to learn about them...this is one spot, "the dark Z" is another inspiration point I'm using.

[BlackJack]

Originally Posted by [ion] C2

PT Cruisers are nasty, fugly cars and should never have been made

Fixed

[[ion] C2]

That too.

[Spilner521]

Originally Posted by NickAlero2000

i dont know much about turbo's, so I'm just looking for starting points and trying to find a place to learn about them

What do you want to know? Ask questions, there's some knowledgeable people here that can help you understand how it all works.

[NickAlero2000]

I need to know how to size my turbo.
I need to know basically, what all the turbo measurements mean, like all the turbo specs, and how it affects the turbos performance.
I need to know everything there is to know about turbo's.
S/C is my specialty, passed down from my dad and what he did with cars.
I know little to nothing about turbo's, I've been too busy with school to really do much research on them.

[BlackJack]

To be honest, you will be fine with a S/C as long as you aren't trying to build a 10-sec monster. If that's your specialty, then roll with it.

[Spilner521]

Originally Posted by NickAlero2000

I need to know how to size my turbo.

Sizing a turbo to your engine is based mainly on how much power you're looking to make and how quick you want that turbo to spool. The turbos that put out gobs of power won't spool super quick, and the little turbos that do spool super quick won't make a ton of power, so you have to find a happy medium that you're comfortable with.

Which brings us to...

I need to know basically, what all the turbo measurements mean, like all the turbo specs, and how it affects the turbos performance.

...turbo specs. Let's take a look at a turbo and it's specs:

Garrett GT3076R


GT3076R means it's in the GT family of turbos, has a T30 style turbine housing, has a 76mm compressor wheel, and the R desigantes it as having a ball bearing center section.

This turbo has the flow capcity of 500-525hp. This is hp rating at the crank/flywheel not at the wheels. You can probably push ±475whp out of it depending on engine, drivetrain (FWD, RWD, AWD) and supporting mods.

Compressor
-Wheel: 76.2mm
-Housing: .60 a/r

Turbine
-Wheel: 60mm
-Housing: .63 ar, .82 ar, 1.06 a/r

The A/R ratios on the housing tell you how big the opening is inside the housing, the higher the number, the larger the opening. On the compressor side, the wheel sucks in the air, then forces it through this opening before it's actually flowing through the "snail" housing. On the turbine, the exhaust flows into the "snail" housing, then through this opening before it hits the turbine wheel.

Usually turbos come with only one A/R size on the compressor for that given wheel/housing combo. The turbine A/R is the one you can usually pick yourself. It acts as sort of a nozzle to shoot the exhaust gasses at the turbine wheel. A .63 A/R housing will shoot the exhaust at the turbine wheel at a high pressure and therefore will spool the turbo considerably faster than a 1.06 A/R housing, but the 1.06 will flow a lot more exhaust in the high rpms and will have less backpressure than the .63.

On a small/medium displacement engine, a .63 A/R would be best to keep a quick spool since there's not a whole lot of exhaust volume to cause much backpressure. On a medium/large engine, a .82 would be a balance of both good spool and top end flow. On a large engine modified for a lot of head flow, the 1.06 housing would be good since the amount of exhaust flow will spool the turbo decently quick and the huge volume of exhaust won't see much backpressure with the huge turbine housing.

I need to know everything there is to know about turbo's.

Check out www.howstuffworks.com and look up turbochargers. It really helped me to understand a lot about the whole system and how everything works together.





So now I'll ask you a question...

I need to know how to size my turbo

How much power do you want to make? With your power goal I can give you a few turbo options to choose from.

[BlackJack]

Originally Posted by Spilner521

So now I'll ask you a question...

How much power do you want to make? With your power goal I can give you a few turbo options to choose from.

And likewise, you should ask yourself when you want most of your power to come on, at low-end, midrange, or top end.

Personally, I have a T-70 (the "T" stands for Too F'ing Big). With the specs I chose, it's weak sauce on low-end and doesn't even start spooling until 2500 RPM. On the other hand, it hits 18psi by 3500 RPM, so what I sacrifice in low-end power, I gain in off-the-line traction. Another nice thing about it, it won't fall on it's face when I hit 5k-plus on the tach. It's still pushing plenty of flow all the way to red-line.

If you're wanting something for good street power, I would not recommend the size of turbo I'm running. It's best used for the track.

[Cliff8928]

But do you really need that much more low-end on the 3400?

[Spilner521]

Originally Posted by BlackJack

it's weak sauce on low-end and doesn't even start spooling until 2500 RPM. On the other hand, it hits 18psi by 3500 RPM

Spooling by 2500 and full boost (I'm assuming) by 3500 is actually a pretty quick spool, especially on an automatic transmission that doesn't spend much time below 2000rpm, especially on that big of a turbo, and especially since the 3400 has some good low end torque to begine with


...especially..

Speaking of...you ever get that thing healthy and down the quarter mile yet BJ?

[BlackJack]

Originally Posted by Cliff8928

But do you really need that much more low-end on the 3400?

Originally Posted by Spilner521

Spooling by 2500 and full boost (I'm assuming) by 3500 is actually a pretty quick spool, especially on an automatic transmission that doesn't spend much time below 2000rpm, especially on that big of a turbo, and especially since the 3400 has some good low end torque to begine with
...especially..
Speaking of...you ever get that thing healthy and down the quarter mile yet BJ?

This ought to cover both questions. Don't forget....4t65HD swap....2.93 gears. 60' times REALLY suck. That's why while I'm gone, a buddy is helping me get some more work done on it. In goes the 3000 stall TC. Bye bye slow launches.

And it's healthy now, but I'm not taking it back to the track. I'll be in Iraq by November, and if I blow the engine again or anything else, the wife will have to deal with a non-running car to have to move around. Just have to wait until I get back in Dec '09.

[kwhauck]

damn Blackjack, you are gonna be gone for awhile!!! I'll pray for your safety, i have lost some good friends overseas the last couple years. Hey you going to SEMA? How far are you from Vegas?

Originally Posted by Cliff8928

But do you really need that much more low-end on the 3400?

Depends on wether you are built to handle the launch or not, me the 3.94 FDR coupled with the whipple that will make full boost at 1800 with be fun to say the least but, my cam i built for top end, and i have a built tranny and real stiff suspension to hopefully help launch me into the 1.7 60ft range

[BlackJack]

Thanks buddy.I'm not going to SEMA. I don't do car shows. I hate ricers, and imports in general (which shows are usually full of) and I really don't care for being surrounded by women dressed like whores. So that kind of leaves me with nothing of interest for money spent.

[kwhauck]

yeah i'm just gonna enjoy my time and try to talk to as many reps as possible for products that are yet to me installed on my car.......plus i'm not spending any money basically other than plane ticket to get there...

[Spilner521]

Originally Posted by BlackJack

Don't forget....4t65HD swap....2.93 gears.

Ah that's right, forgot about that.

[CiscoPath]

Just going back to the original topic for a minute. Larger turbos mean solely depending on the engine from launch until full boost. Depending on whether the engine/tranny are built for the hit and able to get a good launch, instead of a supercharger, wouldn't it be more cost effective and easier to tune with direct port nitrous oxide? You can find a decent kit for under/over a G. And if big hp is what you're going for, only place you'd be able to display it "legally" is at the track, so it's not like you're gonna be filling the nitrous tank every week. And if you are filling the tank each week, cost most likely isn't a big concern to you if you've invested in this setup to begin with. Sure, you have to invest in parts to regulate the bottle temperature/pressure, but you'd still come out cheaper than trying to install a supercharger/turbo combo and the custom piping/tuning to make them work together. Please fill me in if I missed some important factors. This was the setup I planned on running...............whenever

[NickAlero2000]

I'm going to have the supercharger providing immediate boost, then the turbo kicking in for high end power.
I want a big turbo, because the manifold pressure created by the supercharger will allow for it, and having the supercharger will allow the turbo whatever time it needs to spool.
I want fast, reliable power.(select 2 of 3 lol)
As over the top as it seems, I want to make 400-550 horsepower at wheels.
What do you guys think for a turbo?

[Spilner521]

Originally Posted by CiscoPath

Just going back to the original topic for a minute. Larger turbos mean solely depending on the engine from launch until full boost. Depending on whether the engine/tranny are built for the hit and able to get a good launch, instead of a supercharger, wouldn't it be more cost effective and easier to tune with direct port nitrous oxide? You can find a decent kit for under/over a G. And if big hp is what you're going for, only place you'd be able to display it "legally" is at the track, so it's not like you're gonna be filling the nitrous tank every week. And if you are filling the tank each week, cost most likely isn't a big concern to you if you've invested in this setup to begin with. Sure, you have to invest in parts to regulate the bottle temperature/pressure, but you'd still come out cheaper than trying to install a supercharger/turbo combo and the custom piping/tuning to make them work together. Please fill me in if I missed some important factors. This was the setup I planned on running...............whenever

Nitrous is a very doable setup and big power can be had if the engine is built for it, especially if you're only worried about having a fast car at the track. Your best bet is to get a wet nitrous kit that injects nitrous and the right amount of fuel at the same time. You can change the jets to produce how much power you want out of it. The draw to other power adders over nitrous is that you get a fast car all the time and you don't have to refill a turbo or supercharger.

[Spilner521]

Originally Posted by NickAlero2000

I'm going to have the supercharger providing immediate boost, then the turbo kicking in for high end power.
I want a big turbo, because the manifold pressure created by the supercharger will allow for it, and having the supercharger will allow the turbo whatever time it needs to spool.
I want fast, reliable power.(select 2 of 3 lol)
As over the top as it seems, I want to make 400-550 horsepower at wheels.
What do you guys think for a turbo?

GT3582R with a .63 A/R turbine - 600hp turbo

On a stock engine with little to no headwork, it'll take a good while to spool. With the supercharger helping, it should spool pretty freakin' quick.

I honestly don't know if the supercharger can flow that much air past the blades to make that kind of power, but there's one way to find out...