"trac Off" Header Install Problem

Well, we finally got the header put on April's 2.4L and everything is fine, except for one thing. In order to get the o2 sensor back in place, you have to extend the wires that lead to it by about a foot and a half or so. Initially, we didn't have much wire to work with and so we used small speaker wire. The Trac Off light came on after a while and so we went and ran a diagnostics check on it and it said something like "sensor 1, bank 1, o2 sensor slow response." We figured that since the wire was smaller than that of the original harness, all I would have to do is go back and pu in some larger wire. I did that, but after a while, Trac Off light came back on. It went back off for a while, so I thought the problem may have been sorted out on its own, but it came back on this morning.

I don't know if maybe I damaged the o2 sensor while it was out the first time, if it's the wiring harness, or even that maybe the o2 bung is too deep and not allowing the sensor to get a good reading. Anyone have any ideas or experiences?

[jamcllw]

I think I remember reading where someone had to move the bung to the other side of the collector for the O2 sensor to fit. I don't remember who it was though maybe Oldsman.

You might be thinking of the J-body header. They fit, but the o2 bung was moved from one side to the other for the Alero/Grand Am header, likely for clearance issues. I know someone here has the J-body header, or at least they used to.

how does the car run with the header and who is it made by
pacesetter i assume? does it pull harder in the high rpms?

The car runs fine, really. It's a Pacesetter cermic coated header. As for the power gains, I'm not sure. Our original intentions were to have it dyno'd so that everyone could see how much it actually added, but I can't afford to do research for everyone else and no one wanted to donate to the dyno fund, so we cancelled that plan. I have tried to stay off of the throttle when I'm driving (she's pretty easy on it all the time) because if the o2 is getting a slow response, then I assume it will not correct the A/F ratio in real-time, so I don't wanna push it.

I still need help!!

For everyone that just wants to know about the header, it's the Pacesetter GA/Alero 2.4 header, ceramic coated. It cost around $240 plus $9 for a Fel-Pro gasket so we didn't have to use the paper one that came with it. The one that is included is useless in the long run so srping for a better one and save yourself the trouble of changing it. Powerband feels heftier, but it may be placebo. Stock exhaust is still quiet with it on. It welds up to the catalytic converter and everything fit perfect. 13mm was the best fit we could find for the majority of the manifold nuts.

[Fast Eddie]

Where is the O2 bung located? if its not right in the collector you will have problems.

I also remember reading somewhere that the wires on some of the sensor take some kind of reading, I think its ambient temp, but not sure, point is on some you have to be very careful with the wires.

It is right in the collector. The first pic I posted shows it pretty well. I can't remember where the stock bung was. I think it was in the same place, but the collector was another foot closer to the head.

[Fast Eddie]

I found the doc I was thinking of B4, no worries on the harness wires, its the sensor wires that take the reading, not the harness

Your problem now is probably just exhaust velocity. Just to be safe try replacing the O2 sensor, they only run about $30 but only from the dealer, at least when I replaced mine.

I went back and looked through my e-mails from last summer when we actually purchased the header and found some from a guy I had exchanged e-mails with in their tech department. In one of the e-mails he said "we recommend using 16-18 gauge oxygen free copper wire and either use heat shrink butt connectors or solder the connections and heat shrink them." Maybe my butt connectors/wire nuts setup isn't sealed well enough and is messing with the reading..?