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Old 07-24-2010, 10:34 PM   #1
Cashdollar2009
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Rockford Fosgate Power Components

Well I have finally decided to take my focus off of just bass for a little while and have decided to put some time into my mids and highs. Currently I am running a pair of Alpine Type-S 4X6's up front and a set of Kenwood 6X9's in the rear, all off of head unit power. The Kenwoods in all honesty do great off of just head unit power, but it's time to step it up. I'm going to be ordering a Hifonics Hfi 55.4 to run my front and rear stage off of. This is a "budget" setup so keep that in mind.

Basically my question is: How much of a pain is it going to be to replace my 4X6's up front with a set of Fosgate Punch series components? The midrange woofer has the crossover implemented into the basket. Mounting depth of 2-1/8", cutout obviously 6-1/2. I have the gx base model so the factury cut-outs are 4X6. I want to keep glassing out if possible. If I alter the mouts in the panel does anyone see a whole lot of other potential problems?

Another note, tweeter mounting in our car. Would the sail panels really be that great of a choice? I have no holes cut out yet since mine came factory with the 4X6's.

Thanks all who respond. I'm picking up a good bit in the whole sq area, just need some words from those who may have more personal experience with OUR door panels off.

Link to equipment:

Components: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...e+P1652-S.html

Amplifier: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...s+HFi55.4.html

Oh and this, Equalizer: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...on+EQS746.html
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Old 07-24-2010, 11:08 PM   #2
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I will sell you that equalizer for 50 shipped in the box with all the stuff.

I have PowerComponents up front, but not a 6.5, its a 5.25. I used the cavalier adapter i think. So I know nothing about putting a 6.5 in.

I used to have the Punch components but I kept popping the tweeters. The amp you show does not have as much power as mine did so I think you will be fine.

As of now I have the Power components up front running actively off of my Power T400-4 and my old school Power T800-4 is running my Power 6x9's and my 2 15" P1's. Some songs the 5.25's drown out my 15's lol.
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CC & PB, Tinted Tails, 3K HIDs (Lows/Fogs), GAGT Mirrors, Flowmaster Exhaust, D/S Rotors, CAI, Rockford Fosgate T400-4 T800-4, 1 15" C3, Rockford F 5.25/R 6x9
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Old 07-25-2010, 08:06 AM   #3
Ryan from Ohio
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I tossed in 5.25's and I mounted them directly to the door panels. I had to use the plastic for the grille- but removed the grille part.

Caulked the piss out of the open areas. Man it sounds GOOD.

In the past I made some angled adapters. They came out good but didnt seal the door panel correctly/good enough. So my mid bass wasnt that terrific.

My car is a GL and as far as Im aware all Alero's came with 4x6 in the front. Some have tweets some dont.

Better off without the tweets so when you do modify you have a clean slate.
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Old 07-27-2010, 05:42 PM   #4
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Chipmunk: I appreciate the offer, but I already have one BNIB I can get shipped to me for $50.00. I figured I'd have to jump on that offer! And another question, did you run that EQ in your car? Does it fit into our little sleeve we get under the head unit? The dimensions are W:7 H:1 D:4, and it's starting to look like i'm gonna have to tear out the dash kit and start hacking into it to get it to fit. I really wouldn't mind a snug fit though.

And Ryan, what do you mean by the using of the plastic grille piece? Also with the caulk, where exactly are you caulking? And with the GOOD, I hope that's not sarcasm. lol

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Originally Posted by Ryan from Ohio View Post
I tossed in 5.25's and I mounted them directly to the door panels. I had to use the plastic for the grille- but removed the grille part.

Caulked the piss out of the open areas. Man it sounds GOOD.

After looking into it a bit more, I finally found somewhere that I can get the Punch 5.25's for cheaper than the 6.5's so I am looking to go that route. Thanks guys!
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Old 07-27-2010, 05:50 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cashdollar2009 View Post
Chipmunk: I appreciate the offer, but I already have one BNIB I can get shipped to me for $50.00. I figured I'd have to jump on that offer! And another question, did you run that EQ in your car? Does it fit into our little sleeve we get under the head unit? The dimensions are W:7 H:1 D:4, and it's starting to look like i'm gonna have to tear out the dash kit and start hacking into it to get it to fit. I really wouldn't mind a snug fit though.



No, its just a shade too wide. I wound up putting it under the steering column. But as of now its out. It was causing engine noise when I changed my older Kenwood for my 2010 Pioneer.
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Old 07-27-2010, 05:54 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chipmunk-Alero View Post
No, its just a shade too wide. I wound up putting it under the steering column. But as of now its out. It was causing engine noise when I changed my older Kenwood for my 2010 Pioneer.

Well tits, that's just a kick in the nuts right there...

I was more worried about the height than the width, I thought there'd be more wiggle room on the side. :/ Well, back to the drawing board. Maybe an EQ will have to wait til my next vehicle in a few years.
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Old 07-27-2010, 06:04 PM   #7
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No sarcasm about it.

Someone else did this and posted on it. I believe a second person did it- now Im the third.

The biggest thing with mid bass speakers is keeping the front and rear waves separated. If they mix then your sound quality goes to shit. By mounting the speaker with its face right onto the door panel and FULLY sealing off the front there is no way possible for the two waves to meet.

If you build some sort of baffle system you still will need to seal the front of the speaker to the door panel somehow. Easier said that done.

Thats why 5.25" speakers are the easiest choice for this task. They fit nicely into the area.

When you get speakers they usually come with the grille and some sort of expanded metal. I just took the emtal off and used the plastic ring as a spacer. Door panel- spacer- speaker face down (pointing out like it should) then screw from the back side into the door panel.
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Old 07-29-2010, 05:55 PM   #8
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Get the HFI 100.4!!!!!!! And step up to power components!!! LOL

I know you said it was a budget setup. My Punch separates did not like the 88 watts coming from my T400-4, or at least the tweeters didn't. But I think the 55.4 will awesome but I do suggest another set of either 5.25 or 6.5 punch components for the rear.

^^Thats my next task, well with Power ones. Then it will be mids on the 800-4 and tweets on the 400-4. Unless someone can explain to me advanced speaker wiring when it comes to 2 and 4 channels. I understand subs completely, even down to .25 ohm and how to wire them to an amp. But hooking up mids/highs I only understand 4 ohm lol. Id love to have the 800-4 at 1 ohm stereo since its very stable at 1314 watts rms.
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CC & PB, Tinted Tails, 3K HIDs (Lows/Fogs), GAGT Mirrors, Flowmaster Exhaust, D/S Rotors, CAI, Rockford Fosgate T400-4 T800-4, 1 15" C3, Rockford F 5.25/R 6x9
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Old 07-29-2010, 07:22 PM   #9
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one thing ive learned is if your buying tweeters dont cheap out buy expensive ones, everytime I hear someone with cheap ones they sound like crap and always end up distorting with an aftermarket deck however with a factory deck and no extra powering going to them their fine
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Old 07-29-2010, 09:21 PM   #10
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One thing Ive learned in 14+ years is there is NO good component sets for under $100.

The best bang for the buck is CDT CLassics with mismatched paint for like $125ish. Next up the Massives I sell for $150 shipped.

After that you get into some money for good sets.

The best damned tweeters Ive used runs $110 per set shipped. Well worth the coin- especially if you got the juice for them!
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