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Old 05-08-2014, 06:12 PM   #21
negolien
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I run dual MTX JH45's



http://www.crutchfield.com/S-JYsjJy1...H4512-X2D.html

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Old 05-08-2014, 06:28 PM   #22
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It was mentioned earlier, but welding wire is considerably cheaper than sky high wire, knukonceptz, etc. Just be sure to find the wire with the most strands you can find since it's less restrictive on current flow. You could run 0 gauge welding cable from the front to the back, then get a couple feet of more expensive 4 gauge to run to the amps.
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New System in Progress...Mids/Tweets: 2 Skar SPX component sets powered by a Skar 85.4. Subs: Hybrid 15" DD/AA, Amp: Skar SK3500, 2 runs (power and ground) of Knu OFC 0 gauge, XS d3400 up front, 2 Deka g31s in the trunk...more to come
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Old 05-10-2014, 01:04 AM   #23
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The best single din imo after searching Head units for a long time was the JVC arsenal I think they ran around $170. It comes with everything at the cheapest price. My Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS was the cheapest DD that came with everything but Nav . I'd probably ask s8track16 your audio questions he's the one I go to for audio questions and he's super helpful. I think the two of us are the ones that actually have systems and are currently active on the board atm. Oh and one other bit of advice and I' am going to sound like a douche so forgive me but....

Please for the love of god stop putting screws where they don't belong I think your the third gold package I have seen here besides myself and one other guy if that's what that is. That's a nice ride try and avoid zip tying things, putting screws into your center console if that's what you did there with the bass knob and other areas that they weren't originally meant to go . Don't put any huge ghetto side skirts on it lol...

I included a picture of my amp and wiring it's easy to make it neat and go under the carpeting and down the sides. Just remember to do the power and RCA's down different sides.


Why am I quoted if you were talking ton JonStoltz?

Last time I checked, I don't own a gold package Alero.

BTW I agree with the Arsenal. Kenwood has a similar "eXcelon" line, which BTW if you didn't know, JVC and Kenwood are owned by the same people.


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It was mentioned earlier, but welding wire is considerably cheaper than sky high wire, knukonceptz, etc. Just be sure to find the wire with the most strands you can find since it's less restrictive on current flow. You could run 0 gauge welding cable from the front to the back, then get a couple feet of more expensive 4 gauge to run to the amps.


I should also add that the o.p. should be wary of different jacket sizes. Some places will have a thick jacket size and thin copper strands. This is normally true for cheap cable brands like Cadence. KnuKonceptz Kolosus is usually beefed up for its size. My KnuKonceptz wire is more in line with 2awg than 4awg.

Also, make sure that the wire is OFC (oxygen free copper) and not CCA (copper clad aluminum). CCA is more resistant to current than OFC, and you don't want resistance in the amp's power line.

I should also add, some welding wire may seem a size below, so they say it's better to get one size up than you need. So if you need 0, then get 2/0 (00) gauge wire.

Google how each cable should look and that will give you an idea.
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Old 05-10-2014, 01:30 AM   #24
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you guys are freakin wise men lol so much detail, love it
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Old 05-10-2014, 01:32 AM   #25
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negolian i was expecting stronger subs, great brand tho, they'll last forever. love mtx
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Old 05-10-2014, 05:40 PM   #26
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Yup MTX is a great brand imo. I have had them for about 6 years and beat the hell out of them. I think I paid $150 for em. You should see the size of them Jackhammers they are ginormous.I paid about the same for the KAC-8105D. Probably going to go with a new pair of subs next year. We'll see. Kinda tired of all the audio headaches right now but I' am almost done. Everyone gets fatigued at the end of any kind of build
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Old 05-10-2014, 06:16 PM   #27
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Trust me, audio never ends lol.
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Old 05-10-2014, 09:01 PM   #28
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Its a hate love relationship.
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Old 05-10-2014, 11:08 PM   #29
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I am waiting to get my car back to rip out my system and start over... im in the process of fiberglassing the wheel wells for my subs, then have to rewire all my amps and upgrade the front door speakers... I have everything here to do it... with the exception of my car
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Old 05-11-2014, 01:04 PM   #30
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Be sure to put up some picks when you get her back interested to see the wells.
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Old 05-17-2014, 07:27 AM   #31
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After my install i was getting a terrible rattling from my rear deck. This is going to seem very cheap and barbaric and im aware of it but im hoping to trade in for a Golf eventually, so for the time being instead of buying brand name sound dampener like dynamat, etc. i used an old towel. But my god, what a difference! i forgot to take pics of the finished deck but heres what i did...

This towel is thick and tightly wound so it was ideal for this bargain project. I cut strips and put them where i thought they needed to be especially focusing on the back that touches the rear window.



I then cut a long strip, about an inch wide and tucked it behind those thick set of cables running down the C Pillar, caulked where i fealt needed and put the covers back on. Those big factory insulation pads you see next to the speakers i just cut out a piece to throw on top since the top was kinda solid and thought that might be a rattler.



Wish i had pics of the results but it came out pretty clean looking and the bit sticking out the back actually looks a lot more flush than i thought it would and not obnoxiously sticking out




No more noise coming from the deck anymore. Obviously theres still more stuff to insulate
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Old 05-17-2014, 12:34 PM   #32
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What speakers did you wind up getting?
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Old 05-17-2014, 01:30 PM   #33
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Another very cheap option people have used is peel and seal used for roofing. It works not too bad for the price and since you may buy another car, it wouldn't put you back too much.
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Old 05-17-2014, 03:34 PM   #34
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Sound Ordinance 55 watts and MTX 40 watt 4x6s. Got them before i even opened this account.
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Old 05-17-2014, 03:35 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S8track16 View Post
Another very cheap option people have used is peel and seal used for roofing. It works not too bad for the price and since you may buy another car, it wouldn't put you back too much.

Thanks ill look into it
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Old 05-17-2014, 03:42 PM   #36
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Nice idea way to think outside the box.
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Old 05-17-2014, 05:44 PM   #37
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Nice idea way to think outside the box.

Thanks, did it to a Jetta before too. I'm sure the fabric will slowly unravel and make quite a mess underneath but for a quick, free and temporary fix can't complain.
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Old 05-25-2014, 08:02 PM   #38
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Nas i took your advice on the Jensen amp and Rockford high level to RCA converters. But since i installed the speaker amp, now i can hear my RPMs through my speakers. Help!



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Old 05-26-2014, 08:24 AM   #39
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Did you run all your wires down the same side of the car? your rpms are transfer from a crossover somewhere of the rca's and the power wire... you have to keep them separated as much as possible...
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Old 05-26-2014, 11:13 AM   #40
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Yea i ran all the power down the other side of the car this morning. Fixed that thanks. Except when i was tuning my amp again today i fried my sub. Completely seized! Lol i guess the 40 hz excursion was too long. luckily though crutchfield is getting another one shipped out tomorrow
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