'99 Alero - Help With System - Page 2

jamcllw · 03-28-2005, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jiffy@Mar 28 2005, 05:00 PM
Don't forget the cost of a box, amp install kit, and (possibly) installation. Those are mostly small potatoes at the $$ you are spending already, but if you are maxed out at $2000, don't forget to include everything you are going to need.

Also...shipping if you buy online.

Quoted post

Yeah your going to need to run at least 2 guage power wire then get some distribution blocks to separate into 4 guage. If you build the box yourself look to spend about $50 in materials. If your not building it yourself your going to spend a lot. I've had one box built for me and it ended up costing me $500. After that I decided to build my own.

violentrapture · 03-28-2005, 05:17 PM

That's one of the good things about where I work - I have access to our shop, including tools, materials (both MDF and fiberglass construction) and the like. Won't cost me a penny as far as the box - but yeah, I did completely forget about wires and all of that - shouldn't be looking at more than a couple hundred though, right? I probably will need some more help from you guys when I start designing the box though. I downloaded that WinISD program I've seen mentioned, but all of the math stuff is way over my head.

jamcllw - I know I definitely want two subs, so I think my plan is now to go ahead and get the 1000/1 and at least one of the subs. If I can't swing the second at the time of purchase, I'll do as you said and turn the amp way down until I get the second.

I guess that's my next question now - I've read about using both MDF and fiberglass to build a box from. Which of the two is better, and why?

You guys are great - thanks for all the input so far.

jamcllw · 03-28-2005, 05:25 PM

MDF is great for building boxes. If your building a basic box and not trying to go all out with the design use MDF. Fiberglass gives you many options on how your box will look and if done right will get tons more attention then plain MDF but it involves alot more work and may not sound as good.

mikegett · 03-29-2005, 12:02 AM

Go with the eclipse SW7124 dual voice coil. It retails for about 30 below the JL and is a better spl subwoofer. You might concider putting the 30 into upgrading the front speakers to the eclipse point source. They have a crossover built into the speaker for handling higher volumes of wattage. I currently have the three way point source in back and eclipse components in front.

violentrapture · 03-29-2005, 02:19 PM

mikegett - I've read a little bit about SPL and SQ - you mention that the SW7124 is a better SPL subwoofer - how does it compare for SQ? I'm not really too concerned with the "boom boom", per se, but I'd rather have better quality (sound reproduction) than just loudness. That being said, if the ecplise is indeed a better sub, by all means I'll get it. Another question - where the heck do you get them? I did some searching but can't find all that many places that sell eclipse stuff - cartoys is where I found the head unit.
Thanks!

violentrapture · 03-29-2005, 04:31 PM

Hey everybody,
I talked to a friend of mine here at work - it's been awhile since he's done the car audio thing, but apparently he used to be into it pretty big. He recommended these subs:
Audiobahn AW1206T. He said they're only $199 each, and handle 1100 RMS, which is good.

I've read conflicting views regarding Audiobahn stuff on here, so I ask y'all - given that they're almost half the price - is the power handling mispresented, or would these be decent subs at not quite half the price of the JL Audio ones I was looking at.

Thanks!

jamcllw · 03-29-2005, 04:46 PM

I used to have Audiobahns. Then I bought some JLs and would never own another Audiobahn. I personally think they don't sound good. Have you ever heard of a company called Resonant Engineering? There relatively new to car audio. I own a pair of there lowest line 8" subs and they sound fantastic. I give them about 45% SQ and about 55% SPL. Give these guys a call and tell them you were thinking about buying some W6V2's and ask them what they have that's comparable. Make sure you tell them what size amp your going to be running and so forth. I know it's a long shot taking my word on it but talk to them see what they have to say.

http://www.reaudio.com/

mikegett · 03-31-2005, 12:04 AM

I have to agree, audiobahn has made it big with high spl and low prices. Unfortunately, they just don't sound good. One of the things that make high end spl subs expensive is overcoming the resonate nature of the sub (dapening) and the response time. You kind of have a trade off. Large excurssions equal more air moved but longer delays between frequencies. To put is simply, if real loud is not a concern then don't buy a spl. You can save alot of money with Sq subs. I do like the JL subs alot. I just think they are over priced compared to the eclipse. Unless you drive 100 miles to save 30 dollars. I do think you would be surprised with the eclipse. Even the 7100 subs have a remarkable response time with double the excurssion of the JL. If you aren't concerned with saving the money then you may try focal as well. They have a very nice sounding subwoofer. Not as loud, but very clean. Just be certain to listen to the subs if possible. And do not, I repeat, do not let the salesman test the subs with different amps. Only test it with the amp you want or a very comparable amp in rms wattage. I have seen the salesman tote the prefered sub with more power or a underrated amp to seal the deal.

violentrapture · 04-01-2005, 09:36 AM

Hey everybody. Quick update: got new tint, alarm, keyless and remote start put in.

I wouldn't mind using Eclipse subwoofers - however I'm having a hard time finding places that carry them (at least online). The closest place to me that carries Eclipse equipment is Car Toys - and the only Eclipse subs they have are the SW6123.4, SW6103.4 and 87121.8 - all of which are in the ~$100 range, so I'm assuming they're not so good. Unless someone here can link me to a place to get others, I think the original plan of the JL W6s will stay the subs of choice.

Cheers y'all

violentrapture · 04-15-2005, 12:04 PM

Hey there everybody!

Well, first off I'm buying xsavyor1's 2 15" L7s - not for me, but for my brother... Just think it's kinda cool.
Secondly, someone above mentioned RE, and I got to looking around the web, doing some reading and decided to go with them instead of JL for my subwoofers. I tried calling them to talk to them, but I guess because of the move they aren't picking up - sent an email to them as well. I think from looking over the ones on their site, the SX12 would be a good choice. As far as my original amp choice, would the JL 1000/1 be too much for those (can't find an rms on their site for them) or would a JL 500/1 work?
Now, as well as the subs from xsavyour1, I'm also going to get the head unit next week and wanted to get some quick opinions before I slapped down the card. My original choice for a head unit was the Eclipse CD3434. I've seen the Pioneer DEH-P8MP come up in a few conversations, and found one to buy for $250. I've always thought of Pioneer as the walmart/best buy type brand kind of thing, but between the Eclipse and Pioneer - what would y'all recommend? Also, looking at the Pioneer, it says it has 60Wx4 - I understand the comment earlier about using the amp for the cabin speakers (regulated power supply), but the JL 300/4 only does 75Wx4 - so would it be worth the... $400 to get 75Wx4 regulated vs. the 60Wx4 of the Pioneer head unit? Also, it mentions 6.5V preamp outs - is this a good thing or a bad thing? In my reading, I came across something that said you need to match the gain on your amp with the voltage of the head unit preamp, i.e. if you have 4V preamp outs, set the gain on your amp to 4. Is this malarkey, or something true?

Well, I think that's the end of my ramblings thus far. To sum up:

1. for 2 RE SX12s: JL Audio 1000/1 or would the 500/1 be sufficient
2. Eclipse CD3434 or Pioneer DEH-P8MP
3. Is it worth $400 for the JL 300/4 if the head unit puts out 60Wx4
4. What exactly does the preamp out voltage mean on the head unit, and how does it (if it does at all) relate to amp gain settings

I think I'm gonna spend the weekend out at my parent's place working on clearing my headlights - looks pretty awesome from the pics I've seen on here. After I get that done and the head unit installed I'll take some pics!

Thanks so much guys, y'all are great.
Collin

jamcllw · 04-15-2005, 12:24 PM

Eclipse owns all headunit wise. Upper end Pioneers are good and you probably wouldn't be disappointed with it.
The headunit states that it puts out 60x4 but in reality it's probably about 25-30. If you have the money get the 4 channel amp it'll make a huge difference. You can always add this later on or not if your happy with the sound from the headunit.
For 2 SX12s you should put a 1000/1 on each sub. Those subs have a RMS rating of 1000 watts with a peak of 2000. You could put one 1000/1 on both of them but they'll want more power. You could abandon the thought of getting 2 12's and get just one 15" SX and that amp and sound just as good. Or you could get the 2 12's and get a different amp that can push them. I know Directed used to make an amp that could put out around 2400 watts @ 2 Ohms which would be perfect for 2 SXs.

violentrapture · 04-15-2005, 02:37 PM

Thanks for the reply jamcllw.
What about the Orion XTRPRO2400:
4 Ohm 1 x 2400 @ 2 Ohm SIGNAL PROCESSING Variable Low-pass 45Hz to 250Hz, variable high-pass with INTELLi Q 10Hz to 250 Hz, 10dB of boost with INTELLi Q FUSE SIZE Externally Fused

I found this one for $500.

I found (I think) the Directed amp you were talking about - the Directed D2400 - only place I could find it was on ebay, with a buy it now price of $450 - but I'm rather sketchy of buying items off of ebay.
Thanks!

jamcllw · 04-15-2005, 02:56 PM

Orion is actually owned by Directed. That Directed amp your talking about isn't 2400 watts. It's only 1200. Directed is starting to do what the lower end company's are doing and jacking up there numbers for sales. 1 of them (Directed d2400) on each sub would be a good match. The one I was talking about is last years model. I don't think they have it this year.

Orion makes some badass car audio. I believe that amp was made strictly for SPL purposes so I'm not sure how it's going to sound in a daily driven car.

Can you put up the link where you found that amp.

violentrapture · 04-15-2005, 03:09 PM

http://www.woofersetc.com/product.as...9&1=705&3=3724
Cheers!

jamcllw · 04-15-2005, 03:13 PM

Yep it's the one I was thinking about. Those were built for SPL so I don't know how sound quality would be. I'll try and hunt up one of the Directed's I was talking about. Viper also make one I think it was labeled as the d2400.1

violentrapture · 04-15-2005, 03:43 PM

I found this while hunting around, but I've never heard of Kole Audio:
http://www.woofersetc.com/product.as...5&1=636&3=2521

2 ohm RMS - 1800

So, my understanding with a single amp like this, is that if you have two dual 2 ohm subwoofers, you wire the two voice coils of each driver in series (+ to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel (+ to +, etc.), and the amp will see a 2 ohm load, right? (courtesy of JL's site). So, if that is indeed the case, when looking at a 2 ohm RMS figure like 1800W - with that wiring, each sub would get 900W? If so, does everything just automagically know how to split the power, or does the 1800W just go flying about willy nilly? Sorry about not being able to comprehend how this works better, but I have a thick skull when it comes to this kind of stuff.
Thanks,
Collin

jamcllw · 04-15-2005, 03:58 PM

Yeah is sorta works automagically. Both subs would get 900 watts. And you would wire it like that to get a 2 Ohm final load.
I've never used or heard Kove amps so I can't offer any help there.

jamcllw · 04-15-2005, 04:11 PM

Forgot to mention but if your going to run that much power your going to have to upgrade your alternator. And maybe get an extra battery to put it the trunk.

violentrapture · 04-15-2005, 04:20 PM

Didn't even think about that, thanks for the heads up. I've read good things about the Optima Yellow Top battery on various forums, and it looks like I can pick one of those up for under $200, so it shouldn't be a big deal. Is an upgraded alternator something I can order from an auto parts store like AutoZone or O'Reilly's? What should I ask for? (I know *nothing* about car parts and mechanical stuff... can't stress that enough.)
Thanks,
Collin

jamcllw · 04-15-2005, 04:26 PM

You can't get upgraded alts from the part store. You can get them made but they might cost a pretty penny. You'd need at least 160-180 amps coming out of it. The factory alt has about 95 I believe. Look up the nearest alternator and starter rebuilders in your area and they should be able to built it for you. As for a battery in your trunk a yellow top would be perfect but you'd have to also include a battery isolator so you don't kill the starting battery. Your going to be spending a lot of money just upgrading your electrical system to handle 2000+ watts.