secret cam swap advice - Page 4

heineck · 09-13-2011, 02:52 PM

that little one runs off ur FPR on the fuel rail on the 2.4

whiterider00 · 09-13-2011, 05:01 PM

What happens if its not connected? Theres no spot for it to plug onto on the 2.3tb i put on.

whiterider00 · 09-13-2011, 05:13 PM

Nvm. Cant run with out it. Gonna hav to find somewhere to tap into for vacuum.

colonel6632 · 09-13-2011, 08:28 PM

weld a bung onto your intake, and use a small rubber line

whiterider00 · 09-13-2011, 09:09 PM

Doesnt it hav to be after the tb, or no? If not, ill just put it into the rubber coupler at the tb.

Papa Rad17 · 09-13-2011, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whiterider00

Doesnt it hav to be after the tb, or no? If not, ill just put it into the rubber coupler at the tb.

I wouldn't think it would matter if it's before or after. I would say the rubber coupling would be best though.

Philbar71 · 09-13-2011, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whiterider00

Doesnt it hav to be after the tb, or no? If not, ill just put it into the rubber coupler at the tb.

Go to an autoparts store and get a Vacum T-line and use the vac lines thats already there. that what i did

[ion] C2 · 09-13-2011, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whiterider00

the bar i used to keep the crank pulley from moving while tightening the bolt is somehow stuck and i cannot get it loose. the bolt backs out before the whole pulley moves.

Torque it to spec (127 ft-lb I think) and it will rotate the pulley backwards as intended... I got my jam-bar stuck a few times too..

Quote:

Originally Posted by Papa Rad17

I wouldn't think it would matter if it's before or after.

*INSERT FACEPALM*
Hell yes it matters, it's supposed to be sensing the amount of vacuum. Every fitting on the throttle body can be considered "post-TB." They're all on the intake manifold side of the throttle plate.

Use a plastic T fitting and tee it off another hose... how was everything connected fine before and now it's not?

[ion] C2 · 09-13-2011, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whiterider00

i was happy for about 2 min. until i tried to bolt on the engine mount. i have no idea how i got it off, but there is no way the bottom of the 3 bolts is going back on. there isnt enough space btwn the engine and side of the engine bay for the bolt, let alone a ratchet to tighten it. i really dont know how i got it off, or how im gonna get it back on.

Jack up the engine like you're supposed to (assuming it's got a jack under it, which it should right now if the mount is not bolted on.. and the engine will quit leaning to the passenger side.. and give you enough room to insert the bolt.

Once I got the timing cover off and out I always reinstalled the mount so I wouldn't have to have the jack under there forever.

Quote:

Originally Posted by whiterider00

well, got the cam housings all back together. but not after 3 tries for the exhaust, including dropping half the lifters on the ground.

You thoroughly cleaned them and then soaked them in oil before reinstalling them right? Since they probably aren't in the same spot as before, you might have a minor tick. I dropped a couple first time I did it.

Don't forget to unplug the IDI and pull the fuel pump relay and crank it a lot before deciding to fully start it.

heineck · 09-13-2011, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by [ion] C2

Jack up the engine like you're supposed to (assuming it's got a jack under it, which it should right now if the mount is not bolted on.. and the engine will quit leaning to the passenger side.. and give you enough room to insert the bolt.

Once I got the timing cover off and out I always reinstalled the mount so I wouldn't have to have the jack under there forever.

You thoroughly cleaned them and then soaked them in oil before reinstalling them right?.

i hope so

whiterider00 · 09-13-2011, 11:12 PM

T fitting. Why the hell didnt i think of that. So simple.

Ion: i tried jacking up, lowering, doing everything with the engine. Still no room. Ill try again later. I did clean them really well, but didnt soak them in oil. There was a ton in tge cam tower tho. Hopefully enough to get everything lubed.

Pulling the relay and idi plug while cranking, just to get it lubed with out fuel or spark?

Im praying to god i can drive to work tomorrow.

whiterider00 · 09-14-2011, 04:20 AM

so i finally got the bar free from the crank pulley, and got the pulley torqued down. got the serpentine belt back on (which was harder than getting the bar free), and got the motor mount bolts all in. the wheel is back on the car, and oil is in the engine. i pulled the idi harness and fuel pump relay like ion said and cranked it for about a minute. ill do more when its not 4 a.m. i double checked, and i dont have any extra nuts bolts or other pieces. and im not missing any. not even for the fender liner or shit like that. the only bad thing, is when that bar got stuck in the pulley, it completely crushed the aluminum a/c line behind it. im debating weather to replace it, or do away with the whole system and get the a/c delete pulley. my compressor clutch already rattles like hell, and i rarely if ever use the a/c, so its a thought. anyway, im done rambling, heres a couple shots of the somewhat cleaner bay, enjoy:

[ion] C2 · 09-14-2011, 06:20 AM

A minute is long enough lol, I think I usually crank for like 10 seconds just to make sure oil is circulated a bit, otherwise you get a nasty noise for a split second. I had that happen once too..

whiterider00 · 09-14-2011, 02:03 PM

its alive! started it up a little while ago. took a few seconds, but fired up with out any issue. i let it get up to operating temp then took it for a short drive. theres a lot more vibration because of the filled in mounts, but everything feels pretty good. didnt get on the gas, so i dont really know the performance increase yet.

couple things that arent so great. the crank pulley seems to be ever so slightly warped or bent cuz it wobbles maybe 1/16 in off center. also, i have a ses light on. getting it scanned later. at least its drivable. yay!

Papa Rad17 · 09-14-2011, 05:25 PM

Just wait, the light is for intake air sensor, if forgot to plug that thing in sssooooo many times. Should defiantly get a vid up though once you get on the gas.

whiterider00 · 09-14-2011, 09:07 PM

No, the code was p0107. Something about map sensor pressure. I cleared it and hasnt been back since. Drove a bit more, and everything seems good. There was a spot on the ground directly beneath the oil pan, but i cant see it dripping from anywhere. For all i know the spot was already there. Lol. Ill try to post a vid tomorrow.

heineck · 09-14-2011, 09:15 PM

^ make sure ur MAP sensors plugged in tight n right. that can really eff shit up. it made my car miss like mad and almost made me doubt my timing Glad it worked out for you though. and of course the obligatory

whiterider00 · 09-15-2011, 12:28 AM

ya, everything is plugged in good now, and it runs really good. actually starts quite a bit smoother and quicker than before. only issue i have is oil leaking out of the lift bracket thats on the exhaust cam tower. the gasket might not be in right or something. ill have to check it out in the morning. i am so glad its finally done tho.

Philbar71 · 09-15-2011, 03:58 PM

Hows it feel? Any major difference?

zearchyo · 09-15-2011, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Philbar71

Hows it feel? Any major difference?

x2