Well they took off the throttle body and hogged out the area around the IAC valve, apparently the small opening left from MaxBore's sleeving job wasn't ideal. Now idle control is very good, I'm told. Boost controller relocated to hopefully provide better control without hysteresis.
It would've been on the dyno today if they didn't run into a weird starting issue. Half the time it only cranks and afterfires and half the time it starts up and runs. There's an issue with the cam/crank sync. Now we have to wait until Link can determine the cause of the problem, and fix it. Sigh..
It's so hard to have an opening for the dyno (because tuning is booked up for the next 2 months) so my car can only get on if someone cancels. Once they fix the cam sensor issue I'll have to find out who's next on the dyno and offer them money to reschedule.
It's been almost a year. I haven't heard my car run for more than 3 seconds. I just want to video the dyno run and order my new license plate (dependent on the results).
The amount of torque that was made seems to indicate that the WHP will be much higher than I expected as well. We might need to tone it down a bit for the sake of these basic Eagle rods lol.
I've got a Cometic .051" MLS on order, and an SCE ICS Titan on order. Not sure which to use. Will have to consult with UMS.
The ICS Titan has seemingly better tech for ensuring a seal with the built in wire ring. However, it requires retorquing after the engine idles to operating temp... so double-work on teardown/assembly...
But the ARP Custom Age 625+ studs might allow for much higher clamping load anyway and keep things sealed on the MLS just fine... I dunno.
I suppose the only other questions are - any worries about putting the power to the ground, or turning the chassis into a pretzel?
Hmm I didn't think about bending the body with FWD, there's j-bodies launching with slicks at high power without issues.
When it's time to configure the body for AWD/RWD it will be tubed and reinforced, so no worries there. As of right now, it's flexible. I figure the axles/trans will break before anything crazy happens to the body.
It already handles amazing, but the bodywork involved in the AWD configuration will massively stiffen the chassis and allow me to use completely new suspension components that will make it even better.
The power is going well, once we button up the head issues.
I have TPMS, a digital customizable screen display, great headunit, etc. on the interior. Once the body work is done it will be fully caged and sound dampened, and I want to have someone do some work on the interior to make it look even more high end.
It's out of the ordinary, but it's fun to drive and fun to continually improve.
I've been thinking about how best to keep the head sealed. I pretty much settled on using the Cometic MLS gasket and using ARP Custom Age 625+ (extremely high tensile strength) studs. My intention was to torque those things like crazy (75% of their yield strength) which as far as I know is something like 120 ft-lb or more. I figure this clamping force and preload will keep things snug.
However, I've read/seen some interesting things about tightening the head down with higher torque and causing distortion in the head and block, causing the cylinder walls, valve seats, etc. to be misshapen. I've seen pictures and videos of cylinder bore wear being incorrect even on iron blocks from people using higher torque on their head studs.
As power levels increase you need more strength in the stud, but you DO NOT need or want a similar major increase in preload, all you will do is distort things so they'll never seal.
When you go way over the OE torque numbers, it distorts the cylinder head
When ARP calls back with the CA 625+ cost and timing information, maybe we can ask them about their thoughts on torque/preload for this application. The assembly manual for the engine only specifies 40 ft-lb on the long head bolts, and 30 ft-lb on the short head bolts as factory specs (but that's for an engine making factory wimpy torque). I torqued all of them to 85 ft-lb when I switched to ARP 8740 studs, because that's what everyone said to use on j-body.org.
Maybe that's why I had so much crankcase pressure after this engine was built: the cylinder walls were distorted and had blow-by. Over time it sealed itself up. Who knows.
Maybe distortion isn't a big deal and the clamping force is really necessary to keep things secure. I know some 1300+ whp 4 cylinders in this shop have head studs torqued to like 140 ft-lb.
I have the highest torque LD9 ever made as far as I know, so it's uncharted waters.
After a couple weeks of trying to get answers, it's going to be $1500 for custom studs from ARP. At least when the head gasket manufacturers were talking about doing a special run, they were including like 25 head gaskets in the cost. With ARP, you get one set.
After a couple weeks of trying to get answers, it's going to be $1500 for custom studs from ARP. At least when the head gasket manufacturers were talking about doing a special run, they were including like 25 head gaskets in the cost. With ARP, you get one set.
Commitment right here!
Quote:
Originally Posted by [ion] C2
All torn apart. Hopefully the parts get here soon. I heard Cometic is taking like 6-7 months now to fulfill orders.
Oh no!!!!!! I hope not but being a one off custom I fear for you
Well, I got a Cometic .030" gasket from a fellow LD9 modder so I don't have to wait 7 months for Cometic's manufacturing lead time.
But ARP is still dragging their feet on the studs. Shop is still struggling to get the order going for some reason. It's been weeks. Like I don't understand, give them sizes and tell them to make it using the CA 625+ material and process.
I reached out to ARP directly to ask them what we need to do to get moving on this order, because UMS Tuning has reached out over two months ago and even though we're waving money around we can't get anyone to reply after the initial confirmation that they can do it.
I immediately got an answer from one of the employees who requested the measurements and said it's 8-12 week lead time. That sucks and if we would've had this rolling in the beginning it would've been done by now. Now once they finally figure out what's going on and actually send us an invoice that we can pay, it will still be 2-3 months until we get parts. Meanwhile my car is just sitting there. I would like to use my expensive toy.
I am not a patient person, especially when the delay is related to people not using every tool at their disposal to accomplish a task. Why email ARP once a week and have no reply when you can call them? Tag them in social media? Email a different person?
I'm just someone who happens to get shit done. I've said it in interviews and people just brush it off, but seriously, if there's something that needs to be done, I will get it done the most efficient way possible. So many people just drag their ass and I hate it. If I leave things up to others, play the waiting game, nothing gets done. Just how it is. With business relationships with suppliers, too. If I'm not there micromanaging them, things just do not get done. It's sad.
I think we're close to getting the stud order officially entered, and the 10-12 week lead time on manufacturing started!
$2,000 - $2,500 for the set of studs though. Hoping I can get two sets for that price, as I plan to build a second engine while the main one still runs.
$2,000 - $2,500 for the set of studs though. Hoping I can get two sets for that price, as I plan to build a second engine while the main one still runs.
Jesus, making that kind of horsepower is expensive however it will be rewarding in the end for sure.
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