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Old 02-01-2005, 12:43 PM   #1
AleroDownSouthGirl
 
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Okay, I had a lil crappy amp Legacy 600. issed: It hit the fuzz and I never sent in the warrenty. issed: Therefore, I am a grumpy young lady missing her bass!!! issed: So, I have 2 10" Infinity 1030W's, 25-250HZ. They handle 1000w peak power, 4ohms. What I want to know is......

What is the best quality, best cost amp that I should get/have? Money isn't a problem.
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Old 02-01-2005, 01:59 PM   #2
Vtolds
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Since money isnt a problem these are the 3 most expensive ones on crutchfield

Rockford Fosgate Power T15002

Rockford Fosgate Power T15004


Rockford Fosgate Power T30001bd

I hope this helps and kinda gives you a idea of how much it will cost you. You should also think about a Cap.
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Old 02-01-2005, 02:38 PM   #3
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ebay
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Old 02-01-2005, 03:16 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by VTOLDS@Feb 1 2005, 01:59 PM
Since money isnt a problem these are the 3 most expensive ones on crutchfield
i dont think she has THAT much money to spend on an amp. i cant see anyone who is not into competition buying one of those.
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Old 02-01-2005, 03:19 PM   #6
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whats the rms rating of yoru subs
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Old 02-01-2005, 03:24 PM   #7
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^^ I beleive those subs are 250 RMS.
I would suggest a Directed 600D or 750D.
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Old 02-01-2005, 03:28 PM   #8
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My sony pushes pretty hard i have the 1200W 2 channel,

But my next amp is most likely going to be this one
Power Acoustick

its pretty reasonably priced and im not goin into spl comps so i don't need a $1,000 amp.
Power acoustic, Kicker, RF (silver series), and MTX all make some pretty good amps for decent prices. Ebay is def where your going to find the cheapest prices.
goodluck with amp selection
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Old 02-01-2005, 07:54 PM   #9
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Quality of amplifiers have increased drasticaly over the past ten years. Just about any brand will have at least one good line of amps. The important things to look for is how you will wire the amp , and how much wattage will be needed. Amps will produce less distortion when wired at a higher ohm. I try to keep mine at a four ohm rating. However, it can be cheaper to buy a amp that can be lowered to 2 ohms with the same wattage. If you go below 2 ohms, stick to a class D and buy a very high quality. Otherwise the distortion tends to be excessive. I have used Pioneer, Sony, California, Nakamichi, Eclipse (I work for them), alpine, and A/D/S. I currently only have eclipse in the car. Not bad, but they are similar to Nakamichi. They tend to be directed more toward mids and highs for sound quality and lack the punch in lower frequencies. The pioneer, sony, and alpine were decent. The only one I hated was California. That amp was way over rated and filled with distortion. If you realy want a great amp then go for A/D/S. They are probably the most underrated amp I have owned. The sound quality is unmatched. It is hard to find a amp that can do mids, lows, and highs without coloring. A/D/S has nailed it. They are expensive but well worth every penny.
One other thing to concider is what Head Unit you use. What is the preamp rating? Many HU's offer four to eight volts on the preamp. Check out the amplifiers input voltage. You may need to look into the manuals. Sometimes it is printed around the gain knob. If you overpower the amp then noise (a hissing) can occur. After awhile the amps inputs will fry. Most newer amps will except up to eight volts, but if you buy from ebay it could be a older model.
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Old 02-01-2005, 08:07 PM   #10
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Man i bet i could sit you down for about 2 hrs and get a hell of alot of questions answered that i would love to know thew answers to. nudge nudge wink wink.

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Old 02-01-2005, 08:30 PM   #11
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o man we have a perv lol........just messin......

but yea id say go for a rockford fosgate amplifier putting out about 200 watts rms by 2 channels......when they say 200 its actually putting out a lil more compared to ur old amp if they say 200 rms you would be lucky if ur getting 150......

another good brand is soundstream if you check out screamin eagles post, the last link is for a soundstream that i think would be perfect for ur set up......just chill on the gain, you wont need to turn it up high like u did that crap amp u had before.....
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Old 02-01-2005, 10:07 PM   #12
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Yes mikegett seems to be the resident expert on this stuff. Certainly helped me on numerous things.
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Old 02-01-2005, 10:21 PM   #13
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No expert here. I have just learned a few things from trial and error. Mostly error. The great thing about forums is that we all can learn togeather. If you have any serious questions just ask away. Otherwise, my email is mikegett@msn.com or mikeget@yahoo.com
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Old 02-03-2005, 02:30 PM   #14
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Thanks to all of you. Certainly have helped out a lot.
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Old 02-03-2005, 02:38 PM   #15
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I gots a question about amps so hopefully this a good thread for it and maybe mike can help me here. I have 1 audiobahn 4 channel amp driving my four main speakers. 50watts x4rms. I have another alpine 4 channel amp 40 x 4rms. I now have new sub i'm going to install. My question is about power. I have just gotten a new interstate batter since my other died. Don't know the ratings, i'll have to check. But i have the stock alternator. Would it be to much load putting both the alpine and the audiobahn amps to my batter, with a splitter of course. Or do i need a new alt or some kind of capacitor for the alpine amp for my sub. Thanks
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Old 02-03-2005, 02:41 PM   #16
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I run 1100 watts RMS all day long without an upgraded alt or battery. My headlights don't dim or anything of that nature. You'll be fine with the stock alt.
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Old 02-03-2005, 02:46 PM   #17
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Thanks. I was just worried since I've heard the excess drain on the alt could shorten it's life. I also have jvc HU, Pioneer digital eq. And my indiglo gauges and needles and the two amps of course. So you think I'll be alright as far as power?
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Old 02-03-2005, 03:03 PM   #18
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You'll be fine.
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Old 02-03-2005, 08:57 PM   #19
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Wattage has little to do with it. The main factor is how many amps are being pulled at a continuous time. You will hear from many people that because they have a 1110 watt (rms) amp they are using 1110 watts. This is seldomly the case. Your wattage varies as the volume changes. In many cases these 1110 watt systems are only seeing about 300 watts. You may find it hard to believe, but your four channel driving the main speakers will probably draw a larger continuous amperage than the sub amp. A sub draws wattage in bursts while the mids are continuous. Various factors will change this for each individual. What type of music, how loud, speaker efficiency, gain setting, sub enclosure, and even wiring. In short. Your car and system is unique. The only way to know is testing your amperage draw. You can either take your car to autozone or buy a tester. Place the tester between your altenator and battery. First test your car with the radio off, car running, and ac on. This is the cars current draw. Next, turn on the radio and increase it to the loudest setting you might listen to. This will be your altenators RMS draw. As long as you keep the rms 20 percent under the altenator rating you should be fine. For example. If the altenator is rated for 100 amps. You should not pull any more than 80 amps rms without risking premature failure. I believe our altenators are rated for 145. This would give you 116 amps.
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Old 02-03-2005, 09:23 PM   #20
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no our alternators are 105 amps........but everything he said is right........i can run headlights, a/c, my ps2 and tv, underbody, 2 sets of fog lights and my 600 watt rms system and i see very little dimming, only when everything is on and my systems up and bass turned almost all the way up........i know i run a lot of crap and need the optima battery and upgraded alternator if i was to consistently run all that all the time.......i dont.......i say less than 1% of the time i have everything going, so i know im ok........

the 2 amps ur asking about will be fine though......
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