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Old 03-26-2012, 06:58 PM   #21
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Arp head studs
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Old 03-27-2012, 01:32 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Philbar71 View Post
Yeah so I probably wont do the knife edged crank. Ive added up all the parts in a list

2.4 Engine from Pick N Pull $230
ROD, Piston combo(http://www.importperformanceparts.ne...jnw_index.html) $830
Modified 2.4 Oil pan (http://www.miller-performance.com/products.html) $190
2.3L Pump: Advance auto $130
Crank Gear for the pump: Sealed Power - Oil Pump Drive Gear, Part # 223-747 (orilleys) $17
Oil Pick Assembly: 22539133 Advance $42
Windage Tray: 22536409 (GM Parts direct) $12
Bolt To Screen: 11516802 x2 (GM Parts direct) $3
Brace: 24570677 (GM Parts direct) $9
Locator Pins For Pump: 22531530 x2 (GM Parts direct) $3
Baffle Stud: 22542521 x2 (GM Parts direct) $1
Baffle Bolt: 22540299 x2
Nut For Brace: 22535081 x2
Bolt Flange Head: 11516061 x2
Oil Pump Bolts To Block: 14050422 x2

Total ~$1500

Anything Im missing? Suggestions?

And add Clevete 77 main and rod bearings to that list. I forgot them... lol

Most of the parts for the oil pump swap are not available through GM Parts Direct anymore. You will have to search to find those pieces or pull them from a yard.
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Old 03-27-2012, 01:53 PM   #23
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Most of the parts for the oil pump swap are not available through GM Parts Direct anymore. You will have to search to find those pieces or pull them from a yard.

I had actually looked to make sure that they were in stock on line, and all of them were. Except for the bolts, but the machine shop can get those lol
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Old 03-27-2012, 08:47 PM   #24
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So where are you finding most of the parts from GM Parts Direct?
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Old 03-27-2012, 10:58 PM   #25
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http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/catalog/frameset.cfm

^ I searched by part number
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Old 03-28-2012, 01:08 PM   #26
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Got ya. When I searched their site I just put it in the general search bar on the home page with no results other than 2 of the listed parts...
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Old 03-28-2012, 04:31 PM   #27
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well with all what your doing i would do ARP main studs. You want the motor fairly bulletproof then why not.

Other than that i wouldn't do anymore on the bottom end. I would spend the rest on the head. better bang for the buck.

Just FYI, if you are going to running your motor at redline with the GM s/c at 8psi well you better figure out a way to cool the air out of the s/c. Just saying.
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Old 03-28-2012, 07:36 PM   #28
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well with all what your doing i would do ARP main studs. You want the motor fairly bulletproof then why not.

Other than that i wouldn't do anymore on the bottom end. I would spend the rest on the head. better bang for the buck.

Just FYI, if you are going to running your motor at redline with the GM s/c at 8psi well you better figure out a way to cool the air out of the s/c. Just saying.

Yeah, the GM S/C heats up like insane. Later on down the road, with good tuning too, I was planning on meth. Or maybe ditch the S/C and by then I'll be ready to tackle a turbo.

I also forgot to put the Cometec HG and ARP studs yeah... Got to find those actually.
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Old 03-28-2012, 08:22 PM   #29
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talk to Karo for the head studs.

thats at carcustoms.com
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Old 03-28-2012, 08:30 PM   #30
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Sweet.

Another question, should I overbore by .020? or just go with the stock sized pistions and have the block honed and (if need be) punched out to the new (stock bore) piston size? It should save a nice chunk of money at the machine shop if its not really needed.
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:11 PM   #31
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Sweet.

Another question, should I overbore by .020? or just go with the stock sized pistions and have the block honed and (if need be) punched out to the new (stock bore) piston size? It should save a nice chunk of money at the machine shop if its not really needed.

That depends on how many miles are on the motor and it's condition. Most people just overbore because of use so they can start with a fresh.
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:20 AM   #32
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That depends on how many miles are on the motor and it's condition. Most people just overbore because of use so they can start with a fresh.


I suppose I will go with a stock sized bore, and just get a low mileage motor at the yard. Worst comes to worst hopefully I'll be able to find a used low mileage block somewhere.
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:10 AM   #33
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I suppose I will go with a stock sized bore, and just get a low mileage motor at the yard. Worst comes to worst hopefully I'll be able to find a used low mileage block somewhere.

If that is your plan make sure to inspect the block before ordering your pistons so you dont have to order two sets...
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:11 AM   #34
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Did you try to check out after adding the items to your cart?
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:52 AM   #35
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Did you try to check out after adding the items to your cart?

Grrrr.... But your right. Thanks for letting me know now, before I got my hopes up lol.

Quote:
These part numbers were not found in our database: 24570677. The part numbers you seek have either changed to a new part number or no longer available from GM. Please email customerservice@GmPartsDirect.com to verify the correct part numbers needed.

Hell! Its going to be a bitch and a half to find those parts at my local yard too

So, after some short deliberation, unless someone can find those random parts somewhere else I most likely wont do the 2.3 pump swap.

Windage Tray: 22536409 (GM Parts direct) $12
Bolt To Screen: 11516802 x2 (GM Parts direct) $3
Brace: 24570677 (GM Parts direct) $9
Locator Pins For Pump: 22531530 x2 (GM Parts direct) $3
Baffle Stud: 22542521 x2 (GM Parts direct)

My local junkyard NEVER has any 2.3s. I check on that stuff almost daily too. When they do get the occoasional 2.3, by the time I get to it, they have been picked clean!
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:58 AM   #36
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Hell! Its going to be a bitch and a half to find those parts at my local yard too

Yup. Might want to think of buying a core 2.3L for those parts if you set on doing the swap. Found one for cheap myself.
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Old 03-29-2012, 10:04 AM   #37
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Yup. Might want to think of buying a core 2.3L for those parts if you set on doing the swap. Found one for cheap myself.

Nothing in the quad4 family is ever cheap around here :/ I figure its not even really worth the time/ effort now. Since people like [ion]C2 have been running on the stock pump with no problems, It should work fine for me too.

Edit: Even car-part fails me!

Quote:
Car-Part.com could not match your request.
You can submit your request to hundreds of recyclers who may still have your part.

Part Information

Make/Model: 1993 Chevy Beretta
Part: Engine

Ive tried multiple cars too, like a '93 Grand am and such

Looks like ditching the pump swap will save me around $500 too. So maybe that will go to a Port and Polish.
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:02 AM   #38
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Found tons of them a few days ago through Viking ( ex: $250 ). Just look for a core bottom end and ask plenty of questions if you go that route.
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:29 AM   #39
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Found tons of them a few days ago through Viking ( ex: $250 ). Just look for a core bottom end and ask plenty of questions if you go that route.

link? Whos Viking?
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Old 03-29-2012, 12:08 PM   #40
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I will look again after work and let ya know.
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