11-23-2013, 11:28 PM
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#1
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GX Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eau Claire, WI.
Posts: 110
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Ball Joints???
Okay, so I've done a lot of research and I think I may have narrowed my "popping" noise down. Just wondering what you guys think...
The popping noise happens when hitting the brakes (load shifting to front of car) and when turning the wheels to the left and going in reverse, especially when accelerating, (taking the load off of the drivers side front wheel) although the popping sound is NOT rotational. From my research, this sounds like the symptoms of a shifting ball joint.
All bushings are good, no abs lights or anything like that. No vibrations at all either. I have tried moving the tire at 12-6 and 9-3 but I can't feel any movement. Tire wear is even.
Thanks in advance for the help.
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11-24-2013, 12:49 AM
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#2
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GX Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Kansas
Posts: 37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver SLP
Okay, so I've done a lot of research and I think I may have narrowed my "popping" noise down. Just wondering what you guys think...
The popping noise happens when hitting the brakes (load shifting to front of car) and when turning the wheels to the left and going in reverse, especially when accelerating, (taking the load off of the drivers side front wheel) although the popping sound is NOT rotational. From my research, this sounds like the symptoms of a shifting ball joint.
All bushings are good, no abs lights or anything like that. No vibrations at all either. I have tried moving the tire at 12-6 and 9-3 but I can't feel any movement. Tire wear is even.
Thanks in advance for the help.
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03glgold has a popping noise on his as well, his is due to his suspension having issues if i recall correctly.
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11-24-2013, 10:40 AM
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#3
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GLS member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Kansas
Posts: 2,116
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I am fairly certain my issue is the strut mounts
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11-24-2013, 01:57 PM
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#4
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GLS member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,319
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I would guess the strut mounts or the rear bushing on control arms, closest to firewall. Check those before you go further
__________________
A SS looks like it could kick your ass if it wanted to, but a WS6 looks like it's coming over to do it
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11-24-2013, 05:13 PM
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#5
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GX Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eau Claire, WI.
Posts: 110
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Thanks for the replies.
I forgot to mention that I have brand new struts and strut mounts. I was told by GM that the popping was the result of a bad strut mount. It is not.
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11-24-2013, 05:14 PM
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#6
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GX Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eau Claire, WI.
Posts: 110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MMGT1
I would guess the strut mounts or the rear bushing on control arms, closest to firewall. Check those before you go further
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How should I check the rear bushing on the control arm? Just look for signs of wear?
Thanks.
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11-24-2013, 05:23 PM
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#7
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GLS member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,319
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When jacked up you can look for visual signs of wear. Another thing to do is this... Jack it up and get wheel off, do the usual safety stuff like jack stands not just jack holding the car, and chalk the tires so she's not going anywhere. You need a long 2x4, 6' plus if possible. Place one end under the control arm as close to the rotor as you can get it, I'm balzy and would just go under the rotor...lol You lift the 2x4 taking the control arm and strut assembly through as much of the range as you can muster. Put the 2x4 on end, face to suspension you can break it pretty easy. You should hear your noise this way and be able to pin point its location
__________________
A SS looks like it could kick your ass if it wanted to, but a WS6 looks like it's coming over to do it
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11-24-2013, 05:40 PM
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#8
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GX Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eau Claire, WI.
Posts: 110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MMGT1
When jacked up you can look for visual signs of wear. Another thing to do is this... Jack it up and get wheel off, do the usual safety stuff like jack stands not just jack holding the car, and chalk the tires so she's not going anywhere. You need a long 2x4, 6' plus if possible. Place one end under the control arm as close to the rotor as you can get it, I'm balzy and would just go under the rotor...lol You lift the 2x4 taking the control arm and strut assembly through as much of the range as you can muster. Put the 2x4 on end, face to suspension you can break it pretty easy. You should hear your noise this way and be able to pin point its location
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Ok thanks, I'll give that a try. One thing I noticed when I am jacking the car up, I hear a popping noise similar to what I mentioned. This is definitely not the jack because I tried it on the other side and it will not replicate the sound. But it will every time I jack up the drivers side wheel.
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11-24-2013, 05:49 PM
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#9
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GLS member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,319
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Then do as I suggested on the left side. Once you have that 2x4 working the suspension up and down sounds like its going to be easy to find
__________________
A SS looks like it could kick your ass if it wanted to, but a WS6 looks like it's coming over to do it
Last edited by MMGT1 : 11-24-2013 at 07:31 PM.
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11-24-2013, 06:01 PM
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#10
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GX Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eau Claire, WI.
Posts: 110
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So just to clarify, do as you suggested on the right (passenger) side and have someone listen on the drivers side?
Thanks.
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11-24-2013, 07:30 PM
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#11
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GLS member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,319
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wow, I'm stupid...lol Left side man, drivers side like you said. I'd still check both to make sure it's only one side making the noise though
__________________
A SS looks like it could kick your ass if it wanted to, but a WS6 looks like it's coming over to do it
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11-24-2013, 09:27 PM
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#12
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GX Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eau Claire, WI.
Posts: 110
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No, it's all good man, I just wanted to clarify. I appreciate your help!
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11-27-2013, 05:12 PM
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#13
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GX Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eau Claire, WI.
Posts: 110
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Well today I got a chance to take the wheel off again. I put the 2x4 where you said and I could get a little bit of noise. I also noticed a couple indentations/scratches on the sway bar right in front of the rear sway bar bushing. I'm thinking this is a result of the bad bushing?
This is not an actual picture of my car, but I drew where the indentations are. I also checked the sway bar bushings and those look good.
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11-27-2013, 05:22 PM
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#14
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3500 DONE!
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 5,915
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The scratches on the sway bar are probably from when it was installed. Mine got scratched up too.
__________________
2002 3400 & 3500 GL "Ruby"-->R.I.P. 163k. My first car. Put 130k on her.
2000 3500 GLS "Robin"-->Intake,Headers,Exhaust,H&R springs,KYB AGX,Sway bars,Strut bars and more
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11-27-2013, 05:28 PM
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#15
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GX Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eau Claire, WI.
Posts: 110
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I guess that's possible. But it is original, not aftermarket. I thought it might be from hitting something repetitively when stopping or turning because the bushing is bad.
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11-27-2013, 05:31 PM
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#16
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3500 DONE!
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 5,915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver SLP
I guess that's possible. But it is original, not aftermarket. I thought it might be from hitting something repetitively when stopping or turning because the bushing is bad.
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Ahhh ok....shoot, i thought it was aftermarket. oops.
__________________
2002 3400 & 3500 GL "Ruby"-->R.I.P. 163k. My first car. Put 130k on her.
2000 3500 GLS "Robin"-->Intake,Headers,Exhaust,H&R springs,KYB AGX,Sway bars,Strut bars and more
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11-27-2013, 09:59 PM
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#17
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GLS member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,319
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Check the hold down bracket its self, they crack over time where they attach to the car. If it's OK, you've blown the bushing. Either way, cheap fix man
__________________
A SS looks like it could kick your ass if it wanted to, but a WS6 looks like it's coming over to do it
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11-27-2013, 11:16 PM
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#18
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GX Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eau Claire, WI.
Posts: 110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MMGT1
Check the hold down bracket its self, they crack over time where they attach to the car. If it's OK, you've blown the bushing. Either way, cheap fix man
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You're talking about the metal sleeve, correct? Thanks for the help man!
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11-28-2013, 08:01 AM
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#19
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GLS member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,319
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yes, exactly
__________________
A SS looks like it could kick your ass if it wanted to, but a WS6 looks like it's coming over to do it
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11-28-2013, 09:04 PM
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#20
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GX Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eau Claire, WI.
Posts: 110
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Well I ordered a new Moog bushing last night. I'm hoping I can replace it without completely removing the control arm. I'm going to purchase an air hammer/chisel from harbor freight to push the old one out. Hopefully a C-clamp and some luck will get the new one in.
For anyone interested, I also found this. http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pd...K10_107_En.pdf
Last edited by Silver SLP : 11-28-2013 at 10:58 PM.
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