Fiberglass Door How To

mikegett · 04-11-2005, 12:17 AM

[attachmentid=6029] I was asked to post a how to for making this fiberglass 6.5 enclosure. I appologize that I don't have any pics of the actual fiberglassing process. I will try to fill it in as best as I can.

mikegett · 04-11-2005, 12:24 AM

After removing the door panel the map pocket and speaker cover must be removed. In order to remove these, simply flip the door over and observe the welded posts they are attached by. Grind the top of the weld with a drimel or wire cutters. Once the weld is removed the map pocket will pull straight out.

mikegett · 04-11-2005, 12:57 AM

Once the map portion is removed it will be used as a base mold for the new enclosure. My first step was to cut out 6.5 inch mdf rings. They were then temporarily screwed onto the speaker. The speaker was placed over the map pocket to get a idea of the direction and depth needed. I then used wires to temporarily glue the ring to the map pocket. Tip: use something permanent on the wire to ring but temporary on the wire to map pocket. Once the ring is secure, the speaker can be removed. I then placed one leg of panty hose over the map pocket and ring. This stretched over it to give a nice uniform shape. Spray adhesive was then sprayed onto the panty hose and about one yard of fleese. After one minute the fleese was layed over the panty hose. (you may skip the panty hose, but I found it harder to get a good form without it) Resin can now be layered over the fleese. NOTE: Only place the resin onto the top side. Once the resin hardens you can remove it from the original map pocket. It will still be flimsy so be carefull. Once removed flip it over and add resin and fiberglass to the backside for support. Bondo can then be added to the topside for finishing out the fiberglass.

mikegett · 04-11-2005, 12:59 AM

Small strips of wood were layed into the fiberglass. This will be used for fastening the new enclosure to the door.

mikegett · 04-11-2005, 01:04 AM

Once the new enclosure is finished, it can be set into place for a testfit. If everything fits up then it can be screwed to the door. I placed three screws through the front on the speaker ring. The screws had to be recessed down or it will prevent the speaker from laying flat when installed. Then flip over the door and screw into the small wood strips to pull it up close. Be very carefull not to screw through the front side.

mikegett · 04-11-2005, 01:10 AM

Once the enclosure was secure I scewed down the speaker and ran the wires to the crossover. I placed the crossover in a small hole located to the front of the door panel. Foam was placed under the crossover and held inplace with double sided tape. Get the good stuff from 3M. I then taped down all wires to prevent rattles and placed tape over the crossover terminals. this will help to prevent moisture from corroding the screws. I appologize for not having pics of the whole process. In all it takes about three days per side. If you can do both at the same time I would suggest it.

mikegett · 04-11-2005, 01:11 AM

crossovers.

04-11-2005, 01:36 AM

Thanks man i appreciate it i wanted to do something like this but was completely unesure on how i would go about doing it.. i undertsnad now thanks!!

beeanner · 04-11-2005, 12:04 PM

Sweet how-to Mike! Thanks a ton. I never even noticed the map pocket came off. lol. That opens up alot of options for front stage setups.

Got any other install pics? Would love to get an idea of what else you have done. Being an old school IASCA competitor I enjoy checking out what crazy things people have done to fit in audio equipment.

Thanks again for the write up!!

Glen

AftermathAlero · 04-11-2005, 02:08 PM

I shaved mine off.. and put 2 speakers there.. i still need to order my 6 1/2 component set though. My whole door panel is fiberglassed though.

mikegett · 04-11-2005, 09:50 PM

I don't have any other pics worth anything. My skills are pretty limited in this area. The map pocket was a pretty good area for me to get some practice in. I still need to get better on the finishing area of it. Both pockets will probably come off again and get refinished before the summer is over. Othewise, I feel it went well. Maybe aftermath can give some serious pointers as to how fiberglass should be finished. He has a seriously nice paint job on the door and dash.

for a great job.
The only other thing I have ever been proud of (with my cars) was in a ford taurus. I have been doing wood working for some years now. (check out my walnut desk built two years ago :grin: )I wanted to put three amps in the trunk. I built a false floor out of 1/2 inch plywood. The amps were recessed down into the floor with a plexi cover over the top. In order to keep my spare tire, the amps were actually in a door in the floor. This lifted up to gain access to the tire.

Quote:

Originally posted by beeanner@Apr 11 2005, 04:04 PM
Sweet how-to Mike! Thanks a ton. I never even noticed the map pocket came off. lol. That opens up alot of options for front stage setups.

Got any other install pics? Would love to get an idea of what else you have done. Being an old school IASCA competitor I enjoy checking out what crazy things people have done to fit in audio equipment.

Thanks again for the write up!!

Glen

Quoted post

04-12-2005, 01:34 AM

Did you finish all of the edges on the desk yourself?? my dad builds alot of stuff out of wood. and that looks great man!!! Good job. You happen to have anypics of that other car??

mikegett · 04-12-2005, 08:05 PM

I did everything except for the planning. I had the mill plane it to 3/4 and 1" stock. The top is two 3/4" sheets of plywood with 1/8" walnut burl vaneer sectioned and trimmed in 2" walnut. I used plywood due to the size of the desk. Four foot deep by seven and six inches long. The rest of the desk is solid walnut. The sides and front (unseen) are done with a stile and rail design. The double doors open to reveal a slide out printer tray. All doors, and sides were made from stock cut to five inches in width and glued up to prevent any warping.
If your dad is into wood working I would highly suggest the Forrest WW10407125 Woodworker II saw blade. It is expensive (100-160) but well worth it. I ripped every piece of wood with this blade and never had to plane or sand prior to glue up. After three years of use and abuse it is still like new.
I don't have any pics of the taurus. I was still at home and to poor to afford a camera at that time.

slowandlow · 04-18-2005, 12:18 AM

hey how much time and how much in materals did it take to fiberglass the 6.5 encloser?

mikegett · 04-18-2005, 10:41 PM

Once I figured out what I wanted, it went fast. The first door I was unsure of myself and had alot of down time due to weather. The second door only took three days. Total work time was probably six hours on it. The resin goes fast but the paint takes a while. I purchased five gallons of resin, one small container of bondo, three yards of fleece (this was suggested to me and it works great) two packs of fine weeve fiberglass, three cans of paint, one primer, and sanding paper. The resin is by far the most expensive. It seems to range from 25 to 65 for five gallons. Autozone and wal-mart seemed to have the best prices on it. I used it on both doors, two other versions, and still have about a quarter of it left.