09-12-2007, 08:00 AM
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#21
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I drive a JEEP!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Salisbury, Maryland
Posts: 6,388
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30 farads baby!!!
Here's what you need a 30 farad cap, now if this dosen't get it done then.....noth.....something will. $152.00 LMAO
Attachment 2791
Last edited by lonnie : 10-31-2007 at 08:18 AM.
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09-12-2007, 09:17 AM
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#22
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GLS member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Grand Forks, ND for school; Langdon, ND home
Posts: 2,632
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damn right, it'll also make your car almost half a second quicker in the 1\4mile with all that extra juice stored up!
__________________
2001½ F150 XLT Crew Cab- true dual glasspacks with x-pipe, AEM intake, SCT X3 with VMP custom tunes, full stereo system, HID 55w heads and 35w fogs, 35% tint front and 20% rear, Lightning tail lights
04 F6 Sno Pro Team edition- MBRP race can, ODS clutch kit
01 YZ125- bored out to 144, PnP cylinder and head, Pro Circuit WORKS suspension, many other mods
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09-12-2007, 10:38 AM
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#23
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I drive a JEEP!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Salisbury, Maryland
Posts: 6,388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayson_waltz
damn right, it'll also make your car almost half a second quicker in the 1\4mile with all that extra juice stored up!
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Ha Ha Ha Ha Got that right!
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09-12-2007, 12:16 PM
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#24
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GLS member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 3,505
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that thing is a pile of shit, pun intended
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09-12-2007, 12:20 PM
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#25
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They call me 8 point!!
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 12,209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonnie
What were you pushing? Did you play moderate or heavy bass? What I mean by that is enough to hear in the car, or enough to hear down the block.
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2 12's with a 1000 watt amp. I would play it at moderate level I would say. Not loud enough to be heard down the block, but by far a couple cars away. Sometimes I would push it, depending on my mood and how tired I was, but not all that often.
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R.I.P. Dennis J. Willis July 14, 1977 - Jan 19, 2007
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09-12-2007, 01:03 PM
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#26
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Master of my Domain
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Toledo, Ohio
Posts: 4,072
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Doesnt matter, they all charge/discharge at the same rate...
Plus the neons use up more electric... Brilliant!
__________________
-Ryan
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09-12-2007, 07:54 PM
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#27
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GL Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: WA
Posts: 429
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so, since i havent received any input on my other thread im gonna ask here: are these the "big 3" mods that ya'll talking about:
The Big 3 Are:
1. negative battery wire to ground - just replace the negative batt. terminal and wire and ground it to the factory location
2. engine block to ground - replace the ground wire from the engine block to the chasie with a bigger wire (maybe 4 guage)
3. alternator to batt - add a fused wire from the postive post on you alternator (the one comming from the battery) to the postive terminal on your battery. DO NOT exchange wires just add a extra one. make sure it fused the same size as your factory fuse.
hope thats helps
Note on #2- Some cars have a batt-engine block connection stead of chassis to engine block...
is this right? anybody...
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09-12-2007, 08:00 PM
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#28
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GL Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: WA
Posts: 429
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another question...where is the ground wire on the engine block that goes to the chasis?
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09-12-2007, 09:41 PM
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#29
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GX Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Colona, Illinois
Posts: 49
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too be honest with everyone who dosent like cap's, i have a 5 farad cap and it has done an excelent job of keeping up with my car. for those going to extreme's dosent hurt to go with another battery and a cap, but for the daily listener i think a 1.5+ cap would work fine.
__________________
1991 Ford mustang LX Vert. 5.0L 302 Almost done
1995 pontiac bonneville. need trans, FOR SALE.
1991 Chevy S10, 4.3 5 speed 4WD
soon to come . . .
Ford F150 5.8L 351W
1999 Olds 88.
President, Sykotic Concepts.
www.myspace.com/QCmustang
www.myspace.com/SykoticConcepts
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09-14-2007, 07:56 AM
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#30
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I drive a JEEP!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Salisbury, Maryland
Posts: 6,388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sound_xtreme
that thing is a pile of shit, pun intended
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HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA................wait what was I laughing about again? Anyway I didn't mean for him to really get it.
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09-14-2007, 08:03 AM
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#31
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I drive a JEEP!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Salisbury, Maryland
Posts: 6,388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan from Ohio
Doesnt matter, they all charge/discharge at the same rate...
Plus the neons use up more electric... Brilliant!
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I disagree with part of your statement. It may very well indeed charge at the same rate because the alternator isn't variable, but to say it discharges at the same rate is false. I raise the question then if it discharges at the same rate why is it the that when playing your music at high levels for an extended period of time do your lights flicker....because the alternator can't keep up and the battery tries to make up the difference causing it to discharge much faster then normal...maybe that's why we are left with a dead battery, or need a jump. If you are burning more energy then what you can replace then it has to come from somewhere.
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09-14-2007, 08:06 AM
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#32
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I drive a JEEP!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Salisbury, Maryland
Posts: 6,388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan from Ohio
Doesnt matter, they all charge/discharge at the same rate...
Plus the neons use up more electric... Brilliant!
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Now that I think about it it is kind of false to say that it charges at the same rate as well, because depending on how much you are running it going to cause a strain on the alternator to run everything and still provide a charge to the battery. I can't help but think that because of the voltage drop you get. I could be wrong but I think I make a valid point. Be intrested to know what you think!
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09-14-2007, 12:37 PM
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#34
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I drive a JEEP!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Salisbury, Maryland
Posts: 6,388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan from Ohio
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You are right I was thinking about something different. Not particularly looking at it that way! Tu shay!
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12-13-2007, 08:50 AM
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#35
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Trying To Help
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: MICHIGAN
Posts: 509
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Get Bigger Alt
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12-13-2007, 09:08 AM
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#36
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GLS member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Grand Forks, ND for school; Langdon, ND home
Posts: 2,632
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wow old time thread revival This thread is like 3 months old. i'm not getting one anytime soon, spent too uch money on my 1200W setup.
__________________
2001½ F150 XLT Crew Cab- true dual glasspacks with x-pipe, AEM intake, SCT X3 with VMP custom tunes, full stereo system, HID 55w heads and 35w fogs, 35% tint front and 20% rear, Lightning tail lights
04 F6 Sno Pro Team edition- MBRP race can, ODS clutch kit
01 YZ125- bored out to 144, PnP cylinder and head, Pro Circuit WORKS suspension, many other mods
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12-13-2007, 12:56 PM
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#37
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I drive a JEEP!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Salisbury, Maryland
Posts: 6,388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBLOHM3400
Get Bigger Alt
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Wow we all open an old thread up sometimes...it happens but you are on a roll that's 2 already. lol
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12-13-2007, 04:32 PM
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#38
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GLS member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 2,733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBLOHM3400
Get Bigger Alt
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Old thread indeed, but yet, do this and upgrade the big 3 in the engine for wiring.
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01-23-2008, 07:52 PM
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#39
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GL Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Canonsburg, Pa
Posts: 306
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The first thing you need to know is how much amprage you are pulling? If you pull more amprage than your making you will have dimming no matter what cap or batterys you put in. You will need an alternator. just adding battery you will put more strain on the alt. so it will help with dimming but your batterys will never get charged fully.
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05-17-2008, 08:47 PM
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#40
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GLS member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Grand Forks, ND for school; Langdon, ND home
Posts: 2,632
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wiring the cap
i've been wondering about this. The stuff that came with my cap says to wire it like the pic. but couldn't i just put + and - to the terminals on the cap and straight from those terminals to the amp? i'd think that would be better and would be easier with my layout.
__________________
2001½ F150 XLT Crew Cab- true dual glasspacks with x-pipe, AEM intake, SCT X3 with VMP custom tunes, full stereo system, HID 55w heads and 35w fogs, 35% tint front and 20% rear, Lightning tail lights
04 F6 Sno Pro Team edition- MBRP race can, ODS clutch kit
01 YZ125- bored out to 144, PnP cylinder and head, Pro Circuit WORKS suspension, many other mods
Last edited by jayson_waltz : 06-01-2008 at 02:08 PM.
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