06-11-2004, 12:18 PM
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#1
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GX Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Macomb, Michigan
Posts: 128
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Since im still waiting for the SLP cat back system to come in im kind of bored.
SO I'm going to start a thread where people just give out hints on how to keep your V6 alero running or looking in tip top shape.
my Tip - my favorite car wash is the ZIP Wax car wash from Turtle wax. just get a normal bucket and put in a little more than the recommended amount and mix with water so that the solution is foamy and not watery.
my tip #2 - I have always thought that the alero looked really good when it was wet. So I have used tire Wet gel (from turtle wax also)on the tires after a wash.
2 coats in the front wheels and 1 on the rear
#3 - A little bit of gasoline will keep your engine clean. Oh that rhymed. But anyway just find a toothbrush and dunk in some gasoline and the built up grease on the engine will come right off with a little scrubbing.
__________________
'99 Alero GLS Sedan - Gold, V6, 17x7 Enkei PK6s,
SLP Catback, Eibach springs
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06-11-2004, 12:51 PM
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#2
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Vancouver, BC Canada EH!
Posts: 1,483
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I used to use Turtle wax products, but Ive been trying mothers and Meguires products recently.
I find Meguires gold class endurance tire protectant to last longer and it gives a better shine than turtle. But it is more expensive so......
I also have tried Meguries deep crystal waxing system. I am very pleased with the results. Its like my car just rolled off the showroom floor. The beeding action is incredible. Ive compared it to a few of my frineds cars, who all use different waxing techniques and we all feel that mine seems to perform the best. And look the best.
I have one warning, if u use the system make sure you have lots of detailing towels cause there are 3 steps in the process and each step uses a different compound.
I used 3 different applicators, and alot of detail cloths. oh and be sure to buff well between each step so not to leave behind any cleaner or polish before the wax goes on. I found that the first time i used it i didnt get all of the polish off and that was a bit of a problem.
Has anyone else used Meguires Deep crystal system?
Mothers Califonia car wash is another great product. The suds last, and if u buy the bulk sizes its a better value for your money that most car washes. I also find that its tuff on bugs, and road grime. Whcich we all know, can be a real pain in the ass to get off, if its been awhile since the last wash.
I have yet to clean much of my engine. but i was planing on just using orange clean to degrease her. Im not a real fan of the gas technique but i may have to try it out.
__________________
Sound: Eclipse 5435, Hertz Space 6's, Soundstream SPL50's, PG Xenon X100.4, JL 10w6v2 D4, JL 500/1
Performance: Dr.Speed CAI, Custom Cat-Back
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06-11-2004, 02:39 PM
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#3
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Keepin it Real
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 12,522
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i'll have to try out tip #3, thanks
__________________
2015 Audi SQ5
2000 Alero GLS Coupe - still in the family, but I don't drive it anymore
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06-11-2004, 02:51 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 216
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To clean your engine:
Get a can of engine degreaser, and take your Alero to the self-serve car wash
Spray it all over the engine components, watch out for your painted surfaces. Let it sit and spray it down with the high pressure rinse.
ALL SPARKILY!
__________________
<img src=\'http://www.luckywebdesign.com/Alero/lloyd%20alero%20sig1.jpg\' border=\'0\' alt=\'user posted image\' />
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06-11-2004, 04:14 PM
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#5
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this is how i clean my engine....
this is from edmunds.com...
<<<<<<<<<First, if you've already detailed the exterior of your vehicle, cover all waxed surfaces with either butcher paper or moving pads. Degreasers and engine cleaners will strip your fresh finish off faster than a bug splatting against a windshield at 70 mph.
Second, be sure to have a good stock of old bath towels on hand to help absorb the excess water and dry the engine compartment when you're done. Since the towels will be in contact with various oils and possibly corrosive materials, be sure to throw out the towels after you are finished.
Before you start the cleaning process, take a little time to evaluate the condition of your engine bay. Is it covered mostly in road grime, or is there a lot of built-up grease and oil? Are the battery terminals encrusted in corrosion? Depending on how long it's been since you've cleaned your engine and the buildup of grease and grime, you may be able to use a household cleaner (such as Simple Green) or, if the engine hasn't been cleaned in 50,000 miles, you might consider using a heavy-duty, engine-specific cleaner such as Radiator Specialty Company's Gunk or Meguiar's All-Purpose Cleaner.
If your engine is covered in grease, you may want to rent a steam cleaner. A steam cleaner is basically a high-pressure water pump, which heats incoming water in a tank and is usually heated by a kerosene or diesel heater. Just like hot water to your dinner dishes, heated pressure washers literally "melt" the grime right off the engine. The downside is that these units can be quite cumbersome and the high pressures (up to 4,000 PSI) can damage old rubber and plastic parts. When in doubt, consult with a professional detailer.
First off, we need to protect water-sensitive electronics and air intake by covering them with plastic. Using one-quart food storage bags, split the bags in half with a pair of scissors, creating a "hood." Place this over any open air elements, alternator, distributor and coil or coil packs. Cover the fenders and windshield with your butcher paper, using either low-tack masking tape or blue painter's tape.
Next, you should check your battery for corrosion at the terminals. If the battery terminals are covered with a white, crusty, coating, sprinkle the battery terminal with baking soda and water and brush the corrosion away gently with an old toothbrush. Since the corrosion is acidic, be sure to brush the corrosion away from you. Rinse with water and repeat if additional corrosion is still present.
Now we're ready to get rid of the grime. If you've determined that the engine just needs a light cleaning, mix a ratio of 1:1 of either Simple Green or Meguiar's All Purpose Cleaner in a spray bottle. If you're worried about carpal tunnel syndrome, pour the solution into a pressurized garden sprayer (that is either new or has been thoroughly washed and rinsed with bleach).
Spray the engine and compartment liberally with the solution and allow it to sit for a couple of minutes. After the cleaner has had a chance to soak into the grease and grime, use an old toothbrush or a small scrub brush to loosen the goop. Be careful around vacuum lines and electric connections, as you don't want to disconnect anything accidentally.
Using a garden hose with a spray attachment, rinse off the engine and components. If additional grime remains, repeat the process, or use an engine-specific cleaner (like RSC's Gunk), which is formulated to loosen and break down the grease molecules. Once the engine and compartment is clean, take the old bath towels and dry off as much of the engine and compartment components as possible.>>>>>>>>>>>>
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06-15-2004, 12:59 AM
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#6
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GLS member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Eastern MA
Posts: 1,214
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good find
__________________
smirking is important
follow the titans
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06-16-2004, 03:30 PM
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#7
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Just remember to be careful spraying around the alternator, coil packs, and battery. As for the painted parts under the hood just get some meguires quick detail and use it after it dries.
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06-17-2004, 04:41 PM
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#8
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I use cd2 engine detail kit on mine, just spray on the cleaner, let it soak for about 10 min. spray it off. Start the car let it get warm spray the detailer EVERYWHERE and thats it engine looks brand spanking new.
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06-23-2004, 12:35 AM
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#9
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GX Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Macomb, Michigan
Posts: 128
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gotta new one
#4. I love my car clean, even the engine bay. so if your lokking for a good and cheap degreaser that really never has to be washed off I say use motor spray.
This stuff can be purchased at any hobby store. The great thing about motor spray is that its pressurized cause its in an aerosol can. also the spray evaporates incredibly quick. BUT... make sure the engine is cool because it is flammable. this stuff really shines when you have a dirty connection on your sparkplug wire tips or the coil tips.
__________________
'99 Alero GLS Sedan - Gold, V6, 17x7 Enkei PK6s,
SLP Catback, Eibach springs
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