Quote:
Originally Posted by [ion] C2
Rent a compression tester from an auto parts store like AutoZone. - remove the IDI cover
- pull out the fuel pump relay
- unscrew the spark plugs
- thread in the compression tester into one cylinder
- crank the engine over a few times and take a look at the gauge, note peak pressure
- reset the compression tester gauge
- repeat for next 3 cylinders.
If any are a lot lower than the rest, you've got a problem. If they're all very close to each other, you should be good.
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might be a good idea to do this when the engien is NOT screaming hot. you risk stripping the threads with the aluminum head. on a side note...
the OP mentioned the oil light flashing on and off...
Background info: i bought my car (LD9) alst feb. and if you drive it for 10 miles it was fine. drove it for 11 or more and the oil light would come on at idle. hooked a machanical guage up where the sensor went and had 3psi at idle once hot. put some Lucus oil treatment in it and beat-feet to new hampshire. had no problems.
weather warmed up (summer time) and the car overheated, oil light came on at idle and when i shut if off coolant gushed out of the overflow. checked cap and found the cap bad. best guess is coolant was boiling in the head and thats why it flowed over BEFORE the fans ever kicked on.
OK so now: the last oil change i put in Delvac 1300 oil and a little bit of lucus. nice and thick. no light. changed my oil thursday at 3k and for shits and giggles i didnt put lucus in with 5w-30 and ran it all the way to maine 238miles and NEVER had the light come on at idle.
its possible that:
somethign was stuck in the pick-up tube and its now gone,
the fact that i didnt have any coolant pressure and now i do has something to do with it,
thers a tiny bit of diesiel oil still in the 5w-30.
after that whole mess and major hi-jacking.... anyone else have screwy oil lights... i personly think it has something to do with my radiator cap and i was hoping somone could verify.