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Old 02-19-2004, 04:31 PM   #1
Purple&Black
 
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Okay...after seeing all the same questions over and over and remembering two months ago when I was in the same boat...I wrote this up and posted it on my website. I tweaked the formatting for the forum and here ya go. The part where I want everyone to "chime" in is in the intro part.

I figure if we can all post what year car and what kind of system we had factory-installed...and what harness we used and how it worked, it would help out a lot of people. If enough people reply, then people should be able to find someone else with the same car, same year, same stock system as them and be able to see what worked or what didn't. Wishful thinking perhaps, but I'm sure there are a lot of people that would appreciate all the info in one place.

If you do offer up your experience, just make sure you provide enough info (suggestions a little bit down the page) so that it'll be useful to others. I'm also open to suggestions regarding omissions, errors and improvements to what's below. As people reply, I will collect the feedback and show that as well (in a format yet to be determined).

Thanks, everybody!

Source: http://home.comcast.net/~mcronin29/harness/

Aftermarket Headunits, Wiring Harnesses and Class II

This page focuses primarily upon problems that arise from installing an aftermarket headunit into a vehicle that has GM's Class II databus. As an Alero owner, this is Alero/Grand Am specific. While the basic information and concepts will apply to any car the employs the Class II system, part numbers and such are specific to the n-body platform.

When I was attempting to find information regarding wiring harnesses to use in my 2001 Oldsmobile Alero, I was able to find plenty of information. Too much information, almost. Spread out in many places. Sometimes people saying the same thing, sometimes saying different things. On some forums, people with would say that they just used a simple harness and didn't lose chimes! The only problem with that is that they didn't say they have a '99. The 99's don't have the Class II system...they wouldn't have lost them anyway. So someone might read that and then think that they don't need a relocation harness or a replacement interface when, in fact, they do. This is my attempt to bring as much information as possible into one place, as accurately as I can manage.

This page is divided into six sections:
  • Basic Class II info, RAP and Harness Options will help you determine whether or not your vehicle has a Class II system by determining where the warning chimes come from and whether or not you have the retained accessory power (RAP) feature. Based on those two things, you can then see the pros and cons of "the three R's" when you replace the stock headunit: removal, relocation, or replacement interface.
  • Basic Wiring Harness/Antenna Adapters/Dash Kits gives suggestions (including part numbers and prices) for the harness you'll need if you intend to simply remove your stock headunit, along with the two other necessities, an antenna adapter (the stock antenna plug is much smaller than the aftermarket plugs) and a dash kit in which to mount your aftermarket headunit.
  • Relocation Harnesses provides part numbers and commentary about the two most popular relocation harnesses.
  • Replacement Interfaces provides part numbers and commentary about the five Class II radio replacement interfaces currently on the market.
  • Factory Monsoon Audio Systems addresses a few of the common questions about the Monsoon system, including amp location and the mismatched impedance 6x9 coaxial speakers.
  • Sources provides many links to places that I culled this information from. Car owner forums, manufacturer's sites, retailers, etc.
I am also attempting to compile information from people that have successfully installed aftermarket headunits in their Aleros and Grand Ams, I would appreciate your comments. E-mail me at harness@comcast.net or look for me on the Aleromod.com forums (user name: Purple&Black). If you do e-mail me, please provide the following information (so that we can be as helpful as possible to the next people that are trying to tackle this problem):
  • Type of car (Grand Am, Alero, etc.)
  • Model year
  • Type of sound system (Monsoon, "premium", standard, "Sun & Sound" package, etc.) and whether or not you have (or had) the factory-installed amp in the trunk
  • Do you have the Class II system?...Does your car have retained accessory power (RAP)?
  • Which harness you used (and comments as to how it worked)
  • Features that you may have lost (chimes, RAP)
Basic Class II Info, RAP and Harness Options

Class II or not?
GM's Class II data bus connects several electronic components throughout the car. The radio is one of these devices. The Class II system routes the warning chimes (headlights on, low fuel, etc.) through the radio. The radio receives a signal and then sounds the chime through the left front speaker. To check to see if you have a Class II system, listen for your chimes. If they come from the left front speaker, you've got it. If they come from the middle of the dash or somewhere other than the left front speaker, then you do NOT have the Class II system.

What is Retained Accessory Power (RAP)?
Retained accessory power is a feature on most (if not all) recent GM vehicles. While I'm not sure when RAP was included in specific vehicles, it was not introduced on all models simultaneously. RAP provides power to accessories in the car (most notably the radio) after the ignition is turned off. It will stay on for about 10 minutes or until the driver's side door is opened. You probably already know if your car has RAP. If you don't, the next time you get out of the car, turn the car off . If the radio stays on until you open the door, you've got it. To the best of my knowledge, RAP is controlled (at least partially) by the stock headunit. In my own testing, I determined that none of the wires going to or from the headunit carry any voltage to indicate whether or not RAP is active. The radio receives a signal from the body control module telling when to turn on and off. This explanation would also account for the CD player powering up when you open a door or use the key fob (allowing you to remove a CD without turning the car on...and also allowing the radio to send voltage down the remote turn-on wire for the factory amp). It may be that if the stock headunit is removed from the databus that RAP doesn't work correctly because the databus has been interrupted. This may be an incorrect assumption, but I am unaware of a GM car the has RAP that does NOT have the Class II radio. So if you have RAP, check that left front speaker to confirm where the chimes are coming from.

Now that you know whether or not you have a Class II system, you can decide what to do.

If you do NOT have a Class II system, I consider you lucky. Go buy a cheap wire harness and treat the install like any other car you may have owned in the past.

If you do have the Class II system and you intend to replace it with an aftermarket headunit, there are three basic approaches:
  • Remove the stock headunit. Buy an inexpensive wire harness to match up to the factory harness and then connect your aftermarket harness. You WILL lose all chimes...this may not be a bad thing to some people. You will also lose RAP. Since there is no switched accessory lead in the factory harness, your aftermarket headunit will still need a one. Most people will tap a fuse in the driver's side fuse block (often the windshield wiper fuse) and run that wire through the dash and connect it to the red wire on the aftermarket harness. Now your radio will be on if the ignition is at "ACC" or "ON" but will go off immediately when you switch to "OFF". No retained accessory power.
    Pros: Least expensive, easy, no chimes (depending on your point of view...)
    Cons: No chimes, no RAP, must tap fuse and run wire through dash
  • Relocate the stock headunit. Get a relocation harness and move the stock headunit to the trunk (some people have also put it under a seat). The relocation harness will plug into the factory harness in the dash and provide wires for the harness from your aftermarket radio to connect to. Long wires will also lead from the factory harness...long enough to reach the trunk, where you can put the stock headunit. Most kits will include a separate speaker. Connect the proper wires from the relocation harness to that speaker and then mount the speaker somewhere behind the center console. Since the radio is still on the databus, it will pick up the signal to sound the chimes when appropriate and route the signal through the small separate speaker. The aftermarket headunit still needs an accessory switched lead as described above, therefore no retained accessory power.
    Pros: Keep chimes
    Cons: More expensive, no RAP, must tap fuse and run wire through dash
  • Replace the stock headunit with a Class II module. Until recently, this option was not available. The Class II module plugs into the factory harness and provides wires to connect to the aftermarket harness. The module listens to the databus for the chime signals. When it finds them, it either plays the chimes on an internal speaker or it sends a signal to a small separate speaker that you mount behind the center console. The main difference is that the module also listens for the signal to tell the radio to turn on and off with RAP. It then provides a 12 volt lead to connect to the accessory switched lead on the aftermarket harness.
    Pros: Keep chimes, keep RAP, no relocating the stock radio
    Cons: Most expensive
Now that you've seen your options, it's time to choose what you're going to use to accomplish your goal.


Basic Wiring Harnesses/Antenna Adapters/Dash Kits

Metra 70-2001 (estimated price: $11)

This is the basic wiring harness to use if you don't have a Class II radio. I'm not sure if this is the harness you'd want if you intend to just pull the stock headunit and lose the chimes and RAP. I'd guess that it is, but I'm not going to look into it since the people that would do that probably aren't looking here...

70-2001 links:Metra 40GM21 antenna adapter (estimated price: $5)

This is the antenna adapter I have. It fits fine. The 40GM21 says it's for "barbless" plugs. There is also the 40GM10 which says it's for "barbed" or "barbless". I've seen different places say different things for the same year. You're probably fine with either one. I won't list places to get this because you can get this anywhere.


American International GMK420 dash kit (estimated price: $15)

I have this dash kit. Fits very nicely in the 2001 Alero. Depending on what year car you've got will dictate what dash kit you need. The GMK420 fits a double-din dash opening. The Metra 99-2001 is also listed for all years of the Alero. These are also easy to find at lots of different places.


Relocation Harnesses

Metra 70-2003T (estimated price: $35)

I believe this to be the most popularly used relocation harness among the people on Aleromod.com and GrandAmGT.com.

70-2003t links:Scosche GM06 (estimated price: $40)

A warning about the GM06: According to Best Buy's installation guide, the proper harness for my car (2001 Alero) is the GM06. When I asked the installer about RAP, he insisted that the GM06 would keep the RAP feature. He told me that this is what they use on the Impala and Monte Carlo, which also have the Class II radio. I was looking at the harness and looking to see where the wires go. I asked him where the red wire was (to provide power to the aftermarket deck). He showed me. I asked him how that wire could possibly be RAP controlled, since there is no wire leaving the stock headunit that carries voltage when RAP is active. He basically just repeated himself that this is what they use in the Impala and Monte Carlo, never mentioning the Grand Am or the Alero. I went home and e-mailed Scosche. A technician replied (very quickly, I might add) with the following:

"The GM06 does not retain the RAP feature. If you want to retain the RAP feature you will need to use the GM09. The GM09 is not a relocation harness, it has a module that replaces the door chime and gives you the RAP feature. It also sends a healthy signal to the BCM [Body Control Module] so there are no service issues."

The picture shown here doesn't include an external speaker, although the GM06 they had at Best Buy did have one in the package. So you may or may not get an external speaker.

GM06 links:Replacement Modules

Metra/Ventura Technologies GMRC-01 (estimated price: $60)

This is the harness that I have in my car (2001 Alero). This is also the harness that seems to be the most popular and most reliable radio replacement interface. As far as I can tell, more people are using this interface than either the Scosche GM09 or the PAC C2R-GM24.

GMRC-01 links:Scosche GM09 (estimated price: $100)

There was a reference on SoundDomain.com to the GM09 not being compatible with factory keyless entry systems. I e-mailed again about the GM09 and keyless entry, and the same tech as before replied...

"At this time I am unaware of any other issues you may have with the keyless by replacing the factory unit."

I never obtained a GM09, so I never tested it. Hopefully in the future I will have info verifying whether or not it is compatible.

GM09 links:PAC Audio C2R-GM24 (estimated price: $70)

I had access to one of these, so I tried it. It actually didn't work. At all. Well, when I plugged the harness into the factory harness in the dash the module chimed three times. I ended up calling the company and talking to a tech. At this time I pointed out that their application guide said that the 2002 n-bodies were covered and 2001 and before were not. The tech (who did seem very knowledgeable) said that it only meant that they were not able to confirm that it did work with the 2001. It was unclear whether or not they tested a 2001 or not. As far as I had known, there wasn't anything that changed from 2001 to 2002, but I guess there is.

C2R-GM24 links:Peripheral GMCO (estimated price: $100)

Peripheral's news release about the GMCO is as such:

"Peripheral Electronics has released a chime module for late model GM vehicles with Class-2 radios (i.e. Cavalier, Impala, Malibu, etc.) This stand-alone unit is for installation of an aftermarket radio into GM vehicles. The GMCO de-codes the chime signal command on the Class 2 data bus and supplies the appropriate warning tone from its’ built in speaker. This Class-2 solution from Peripheral also generates a 12-volt accessory output to power up the aftermarket radio. This eliminates the process of searching for a 12-volt accessory elsewhere in the vehicle. Additionally, the GMCO uses a genuine Delphi chip that enables it to provide a “Healthy Status” report to the Class-2 system. This speeds up the install by eliminating the necessity of retaining the factory radio in the install. The GMCO is the perfect answer for any GM vehicle without OnStar that utilizes Class-2 commands to produce seatbelt, key in ignition or headlight warning chimes."

Note: Please note that it does not say that it keeps retained accessory power. It very well might. It could, since there is a module. But since it doesn't say that it does...it's possible that it doesn't. Something to keep in mind. I'd suggest that you verify that with Peripheral before you buy.

GMCO links:Soundgate GMChime (estimated price: $85)

Soundgate's website states the following:

"...Not stopping there, however, GMCHIME also provides a digitally activated ignition lead. Radios, factory or aftermarket, use an 'ignition' lead that serves to shut the radio off when the vehicle's key is turned to the 'off' position. Some of General Motors' newer hi-tech vehicles utilize a type of digital ignition lead - thus leaving the aftermarket without one to use. Once again, GMCHIME comes to the rescue by providing this very important feature."

Again, it is not clear whether it simply provides an 12 volt accessory lead or whether not it keep retained accessory power. It does say a "digitally activated ignition lead". That should be RAP-controlled.

GMChime links:Factory Monsoon Audio Systems

Q: How do I know if I have a Monsoon system?

A: There does seem to be some debate about this. Some n-body cars have a "premium" sound system. Then there is the Monsoon system. These may be totally different, but there is lots of debate about it (the kind of debate that doesn't really get settled). Someone who works for GM said that if it doesn't say "Monsoon" on your stock radio, then you don't have the Monsoon system. If you have a factory-installed amp in your trunk (left side, pull away the carpet) that could be a clue. My stock radio does not say "Monsoon" but I have an amp in the trunk that says "Monsoon" on the side. Whether or not I have a Monsoon system I don't know. But this I do know...any questions or answers (remote turn-on, mismatched impedances in the speakers, etc.) that pertain to the Monsoon amp apply to me and apply to you as well, provided that that amp is sitting in your trunk.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q: Can I just swap out the rear 6x9 speakers with new ones?

A: No. Those are 2-way coaxial speakers with one set of leads for each component. The crossovers for these leads are built into the amp. The tweeter leads are on a 4-ohm channel from the amp and only carry high frequencies. The woofers are on a 2-ohm channel and only carry low frequencies. If you connect standard 4-ohm coaxial speakers to the 2-ohm leads, they won't work at all. If you connect them to the 4-ohm leads, you'll only get high-frequencies, if anything.. Generally, the solution is to replace the headunit and run you aftermarket speakers off the headunit. You could also buy an aftermarket amp to drive your new speakers. Get a subwoofer while you're at it...

You won't be able to find replacement coaxials with mismatched impedances like that except from the dealer, and they're $75 apiece. You may be able to find them used either on eBay or on one of the n-body forums.

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Q: What's the pinout on the Monsoon amp?

A: Pin Wire Color Function:

E1 LT GRN Right Front Speaker Output (+)
E2 TAN Left Front Speaker Output (+)
E3 GRY Left Front Speaker Output (-)
E4 LT BLU Right Rear Speaker Output (-)
E5 DK BLU Right Rear Speaker Output (+)
E6 BRN Left Rear Speaker Output (+)
E7 YEL Left Rear Speaker Output (-)
E8 BLK Ground
E9 BLK Ground
E10 DK GRN Antenna Relay Coil Supply Voltage
E11 ORN Battery Positive Voltage
E11 ORN Battery Positive Voltage
E13 BLK Left Front Tweeter Speaker Output (+)
E14 YEL Left Front Tweeter Speaker Output (-)
E15 DK BLU Left Front Midrange Speaker Output (+)
E16 LT BLU Left Front Midrange Speaker Output (-)
F1 DK GRN Right Front Speaker Output (-)
F2 LT GRN Right Front Speaker Tweeter Output (+)
F3 PPL Right Front Speaker Tweeter Output (-)
F4 PPL Left Rear Tweeter Speaker Output (-)
F5 RED Left Rear Tweeter Speaker Output (+)
F6 DK GRN Right Front Midrange Speaker Output (-)
F7 ORN Right Front Midrange Speaker Output (+)
F8 PPL Gain Control Signal
F9 -- Not Used
F10 YEL Right Rear Tweeter Speaker Output (-)
F11 WHT Right Rear Tweeter Speaker Output (+)
F12 -- Not Used
F13 LT BLU/BLK Right Subwoofer Speaker Output (-)
F14 DK GRN Right Subwoofer Speaker Output (+)
F15 DK BLU/WHT Left Subwoofer Speaker Outlet (+)
F16 LT GRN/BLK Left Subwoofer Speaker Outlet (-)


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q: What wire do I use for the remote turn-on wire?

A: E10. Dark green. Don't get it confused with F1, one of the speaker leads.

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Radio Pinout

Recently I saw someone ask for the pinout for the stock radio. Since I had recently replaced mine, I had done a little testing to find out the purpose of some of the less obvious wires. Speaker leads, illumination, ground, battery were easy, but there are quite a few other ones. I was stumped on a few, but then I e-mailed the part # of my radio to Delphi Electronics and requested a wiring diagram. They sent me one. Unfortunately, some of the descriptions are quite archaic and they lack wire colors on their diagram. I added the wire colors as they pertained to the factory harness in my car (2001 Alero, "premium" sound system, Monsoon amp). Those that have no color next to them are not used in my car but may or may not be used in other cars with other options such as a power antenna or steering wheel controls.

The radio pinout is here.


Sources

Information from lots of different sources went into this. Much of it was found on two of the n-body forums, Aleromod.com and GrandAmGT.com. Other information was culled from manufacturers' web sites, phone calls to the manufacturers, my own trial-and-error and various internet searches. If you're looking for more info, I highly recommend the Aleromod.com and GrandAmGT.com forums. There you'll find people that have already installed aftermarket headunits and amps and all kinds of audio equipment into their Aleros and Grand Ams. They will prove to be your best source of reliable information. Below there are quite a few links. A few of the links below will search the appropriate forum for some of the more helpful keywords. If you don't find what you're looking for, search for something else or join one of the forums and ask. You'd be surprised how much other owners know.

Aleromod.com GrandAmGT.com Other forums and sites Retailer sitesManufacturer sites
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Old 02-19-2004, 04:34 PM   #2
Purple&Black
 
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I'll get it started:

2001 Alero GLS, Sun & Sound package
Class II chimes and RAP from the factory
Headunit did not say "Monsoon"
Monsoon amp in the trunk

PAC Audio C2RGM24 did NOT work in my car. No chimes, no RAP, no nothing.

Metra GMRC-01 in the car now...RAP works, chimes work.
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Old 02-19-2004, 05:58 PM   #3
2ndAlero
 
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I thought some of your information look familar to me... Glad to see it helped some, and glad to see a good comprehensive post on all of this. I suggest a moderator copy this thread into the FAQ section if at all possible.

Here's my information:

2001 Alero GLS, Sun & Sound package
Class II chimes and RAP from the factory
Headunit did not say "Monsoon"
Monsoon amp in the trunk

I used a Metra GMRC-01 (got it at CircuitCity for $60), everything seems to work just fine. I had a problem in which the amp turn on lead was connected to the wrong pin in their harness. Once I figure out this out (from help from Purple&Black) knowing it was to be connected to Pin #3 and not Pin #2, all was good.

Very easy wiring harness to work with, and for $60 I think the best solution if you want to keep the RAP and/or chimes. I liked the RAP feature a lot, and the chimes aren't bad (in my opinion).
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Old 02-19-2004, 08:31 PM   #4
leroBob
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HOLY CRAP. issed:
TIhs entire time iv' been flipping a nut kor no reason.........
i have a 99 ALero and have been worrying about losing my chimes......
So if i read it correctly all i will need is a wiring harness and i'll be fine Yes/no maybe, I don't know if i'm more confused or if my questions ben answered tahnxs
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Old 02-20-2004, 04:36 PM   #5
Purple&Black
 
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Yep, just the simple harness. Metra 70-2001 or something comparable. 1999's do not use the radio for chimes...
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Old 02-21-2004, 11:29 PM   #6
leroBob
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ny one know where the chimes some from them and y GM changed it?
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Old 02-23-2004, 09:26 PM   #7
alerojunkie
 
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Cant tell you where the chimes are coming from on your car but you can replace your HU without having to get any of those chime module wiring harnesses because its a '99. I believe GM switched to the Class 2 databus system (where the chimes come from the radio on the '01 and up) to save on wiring. I may be wrong but search for the GM Class 2 databus system on the internet and youll find out everything you want to know.
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Old 03-01-2004, 02:11 PM   #8
Maverick
 
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So someone with a 2000 (like myself) will not have the Class II system either? I can just change my HU without losing the chimes as well?...

I'm going to check where my chimes are coming from tonght anyway to be sure...
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Old 03-01-2004, 05:34 PM   #9
velocity
 
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I've got a 2001 GL2 without the factory monsoon "OPTION" anywhere on the invoice.
However I have the monsoon amp with 8-speakers.
I replaced the stock HU with an aftermarket one and lost my chimes.
I also bought a wiring harness adapter that was supposed to be universal for late model GMs and it did not fit.



PS- great idea for a thread, lots of info to be had here.
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Old 03-01-2004, 08:34 PM   #10
2ndAlero
 
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Figured I'd add this one...

For those who have or are thinking about the Metra kit (to keep the chimes) and have heard or complained that it is too loud. Well, if you open up the speaker box and look at the circuit board there is a solder bridge in there that on the board is printed something about cutting the bridge for "low volume".

I haven't cut mine just yet to see how much quieter it gets.. but just wanted to point that out.
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Old 03-01-2004, 10:41 PM   #11
Purple&Black
 
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Okay, I have to update my own thingie here...

Same info as up above:

2001 Alero GLS, Sun & Sound package
Class II chimes and RAP from the factory
Headunit did not say "Monsoon"
Monsoon amp in the trunk

The Metra GMRC-01 is still in there, but.....

The warning light chimes don't work. Low fuel, tire pressure, etc. No chimes. The chimes sound when you start the car, seatbelts, key in ignition w/door open, headlights left on...you'd think chimes are chimes as far as the radio's concerned. Note: The documentation for the GMRC-01 lists the 2002-2003 Alero, but 2001-2003 Grand Am. Go figure. I'm guessing because sometime during the 2001 model year, they went to Class II for the chimes although I bought my car in October, so I would have had one of the oldest of the 2001 models. I guess I have the "crazy" year of the car. [shrug]

I guess that's okay though because when a light comes on it's impossible not to notice. My only concern would be if one of the bulbs is burnt out, will the SVS light come on? In a thread about gauges, Nick suggested that if you took the bulbs out of the cluster it might throw a code, but I never saw anything say so for sure. And even then, "burnt out" and "not there" are two different things. It'd suck to have the airbag light be on and not know it because the bulb burnt out...you know? I could get in the habit of scanning the dash when I start the car to see if all the lights come on, but jeez...that's hard!
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Old 03-02-2004, 12:07 AM   #12
2ndAlero
 
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I think, and without going to my garage and checking for sure, that there is a manufacturing plate on the drivers side of the car when you open the door. This should tell you at least the month of manufacture. Just because you bought your car in October doesn't mean it was the end of the model year for the build... it could have sat around a while, but generally that would be the case.

If there was a change in the wiring harness, it would be in cars made January '01 through June '01 then for the '01 model year. GM doesn't like doing running changes, but will conduct a change at a mid model year switch over. Your best bet on a car is getting one that's been built in May or June as all the model changes on parts are instituted and should be the "best" parts you are going to get for that model year.

Anyway... I don't see any mention in my service manual about a wiring harness difference for the '01 model... so maybe the Metra kit just didn't list the Alero year's correctly? It's possible as I see parts good for Alero's '96-'03 all the time and we all know the Alero wasn't around until '99.
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Old 03-02-2004, 12:50 AM   #13
Purple&Black
 
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Actually, I got it in October 2000, so it had to be made late summer or early fall 2000...at the beginning of the 2001 model year. I don't feel like going outside to look right now.

Anyway, since the PAC interface didn't work right either, there's probably something about either all the 2001 models or at least the first half of that year that they changed later on. Since they didn't start making those interfaces until what...summer 2003...they probably either don't know about the difference or they didn't bother supporting it.

Maybe some other people with 2001's that have interfaces will speak up...
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Old 03-04-2004, 09:19 AM   #14
Maverick
 
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I checked my 2000 and I have the premium sound without the amp in the trunk. Also my chimes come from the middle of the dash somewhere, not the left door speaker.... so I guess I'm one of the lucky one that can just change over my HU :thumbsup:
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Old 03-04-2004, 11:34 AM   #15
Purple&Black
 
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You are correct, Maverick.

BTW, don't street-race Iceman and Slider even if their pointless flexing during the volleyball game pisses you off...
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Old 05-04-2004, 11:58 AM   #16
Youngblood77
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Ok, I've got a 2000 with the "premium" sound system. ( 6 speaker extended range option ) *NO amp* I've replaced my factory HU with a Pioneer DEH-P6600, using a Metra 70-2001 into-car wiring harness. There's no RAP or Class II system, so nothing was lost, and all my chimes work great.

Hope this helps :thumbsup:
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Old 05-04-2004, 12:28 PM   #17
bigd6983
 
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im still trying to figure out what all this is about?? Ill give you my info I have a 2000 still not sure what model, i dont think it came with premium sound(no external amp)........got an aftermarket HU and my chimes still work, but whats the rap part?? let me know thanks
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Old 05-04-2004, 05:30 PM   #18
niral622
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in 2000 Aleros there is no RDS (radio data system) therefore they don't need the relocation harness or anything to keep the chimes working
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Old 05-04-2004, 05:59 PM   #19
vodkaslut85
 
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stupid question, how can we find out what kind of sound system our car came with, and where would this amp be that some alero's came with because some of my friends say I have the monsoon system, others say I have the other one, is it printed anywhere if we bought the car used?
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Old 05-04-2004, 06:11 PM   #20
BLK03GXS
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I beleave if you have the Top end one with the amp in the trunk and tape and CD then you basicly have the monsoon.. its just a diff HU(Y) otherwise you prolly have the base level cd
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