Twincharging... - Page 8

kwhauck · 11-25-2008, 09:35 PM

450 wheel or crank? which either one it is, please expound, the reason being that i find that a lot of new buildups that are happening people are spending a lot of money on motors, forced induction, and maybe transmissions, That means nothing or little is going into the suspension to help get that power to the ground, a build really has to be rounded to see great results, other wise you will just have a tire spinning dyno queen.....i sure as hell don't want that....

darksobsession · 11-25-2008, 09:54 PM

..........

darksobsession · 11-25-2008, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackJack

and I really don't care for being surrounded by women dressed like whores.

???!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

NickAlero2000 · 11-25-2008, 11:37 PM

450 wheels, its been done in an N-Body, Spyhunter put out 432 whp....
and yes, suspension and drag radials are a must to help put down the power better
frame re-inforcement as well, but idk at what hp i have to start thinking about that...

edit: at about 250hp (10 or so PSI methinks, right before i build the engine)....Suspension stuff will happen.
Order of Operations:
Stage 1) Boost to 8 PSI, supporting mods, 75mm tb, full 3'' exhaust, HO manifold, everything that can be done without touching the engine or trans will be done
Stage 2) Suspension, Eibachs/Sprints with KYB GR2's and drag radials for the track....
Stage 3) Engine build, increase boost to 14 PSI
Stage 4) See what the transmission condition is at this boost level, possible 5-Speed or 4T-65HD swap
Stage 5) Reach 450 HP, increase boost until I'm running 10's
Stage 6) Sit back and enjoy my car!

kwhauck · 11-26-2008, 12:15 AM

first off, 432 is close, but it's not 450....Also we don't have frames, unibody, but yes re-inforcement could help, nobody has track-tested anything to my knowledge....

Stage 1) I'm not sure about the 2.4, 10psi could probably hit 250whp though....boost pressure also depends on your engine build, you could hit 280whp at 10psi on a stock engine, and with your built engine and the same turbo hit 280whp at 6 psi,
Stage 2) I would reccomend KYB AGXs and HandR springs, also with the goals you are looking at I would reccomend Slicks which leads us to
Stage 3 and 4) Combined because when a car is down for an engine rebuild, you might as well build the transmission, tell people on the board, ask spy, and race shop your goal numbers and what they think, build accordingly (i reccomend the driveshaft shop for part of it)
Stage 5) I applaud your lofty goal for HP, I think it is possible, as far as 10 second passes, better start with 13s first and go down from there,
Stage 6)You should enjoy every stage and take lots of pictures and videos!!!

Now some more things to look at

1. Tuning, spy is pushing farther than 432 and is currently messing with tec3 (a standalone system)

i'll add more later after you respond, my brain is a little racked right now....

NickAlero2000 · 11-26-2008, 12:22 AM

Yes, I WILL take lots of pics and videos, I intend to enjoy making my car fast enough to eat Corvettes lol...
Starting with 13's sounds reasonable enough, with the right supporting mods I think I can boost 8-10 and run 250 HP.
I agree with you about the engine rebuild/transmission at the same time, it will be convienient to have both done. Less time I'll be riding on my bike, b/c I'll do it in the summertime. Hell if I win that green Olds that black00gt1 found I won't have to worry about my bike lol.
Thats all I got for now...I'll be bouncing around the site though and will come back to see your reply and such....

Spilner521 · 11-26-2008, 12:47 AM

Here's what I would do:

Run a GT3076R.
Starting on a stock engine, run 10-12psi and push around 270whp...low-mid 13's easy.
Get used to that power and decide you want more.
Full engine build and absolutely a transmission build if you're looking to push over 400hp.
While the car's down for the engine/tranny build, beef up the suspension, get some sticky tires for the street, slicks for the track.
When the engine is back in the car, tune for around 25psi, that's where that turbo really shines. You should be well into 400whp at this point.

10's are a far cry at that power level, but with slicks and a good suspension setup, you should be able to dip into the high 11's @ 115-120ish mph. Boost control is key to running a fast time in a FWD car. You want to be able to launch hard with no wheel spin at a lower boost level and raise the boost progressively as you gain speed and traction. If everything is setup perfectly, you may even hit somewhere around 11.5 on a perfect day.

All that is pretty much what I'm doing, except with a different engine.

kwhauck · 11-26-2008, 01:15 AM

i was hoping you would step in here spilner, i'm not very up to par on the 4 cylinder motors.........

he brought up a couple good points that i couldn't think of at the time

1. boost management on launch
2. build everything in stages

my stages examples

stage one - boost the stock motor until it blows up - completed
spend three years building up
stage two - swap in built 5 speed with another stock motor - almost done
drive like this 3-12 months
stage three - swap in built motor
drive like this 3-6 months
stage four - add the boost until something breaks
stages five-a couple wives - reassess why you are in debt and then put more money into build-up and do it again!!!

although i hope to keep it to 7 or 8 major stages and one wive!!!

Spilner521 · 11-26-2008, 03:27 AM

^^Yeah I'm in the "Spend three years building up" stage myself. I keep pouring money into the other car instead

NickAlero2000 · 11-26-2008, 11:56 PM

Its an EVO!!!!!
so its cool
lol

NickAlero2000 · 11-27-2008, 01:05 AM

and that Tec3 Spy's looking at....
its pretty effin amazing.
i may go with that instead of HP Tuners when I choose my program....
i had an HP Tuner for a while, just sold the software to a friend who wanted it without goin through shipping hassle for watever reason. got back my money+150 for me to teach him how to use it...lol
i like the increased control over HP Tuners the Tec3 gives you...pretty sick shit...

spyhunter · 11-27-2008, 07:27 PM

Just adding some reference on builds.

My first setup had a T3/T4, GM S/C reflash, 440cc injectors, Apex'i S-AFC 10-12psi.. made 280hp. Got HPTuners ditched the apex'i s-afc and just fixed the injector constant, 300'ish hp to the wheel, same boost level.

Ditched the T3/T4 and went GT30xxR, we went to 350hp to the wheels, no change in boost.

Then we got some c16, 750cc squirters, tweaked the boost to 15psi and got 432hp.
.......................................
For an F23 Tranny one of the major weakness is the shift forks, they're broke dink. For power levels that are over 400hp 400tq, you're going to be looking at clutches that are not made by SPEC and are more along the lines of a twin disc setup. I can also say that an 99+ n-body axles so far have held to my abuse, stay tuned on that one. Yes i broke my tranny, but also realize it's had a couple hundred passes, 1/3 of which were on either drag radials or slicks, was used to teach half a dozen girls to drive stick. I've been through the stock clutch, a SPEC stage 3, and currently have a clutch masters twin disc setup.
........................................

An easy 400whp motor is "secret cam swap", port/polish head, ss valves, 2.3l HO intake manifold w/ an ls1 throttle body, 9.5:1 JE slugs, eagle rods, balanced bottom end, 2.3L HO crank pulley, GT30R turbo, 2.5inch downpipe, 3inch exhaust, no cat, 2.25 lower charge pipe, small intercooler, 2.5inch upper charge pipe, TiAL wastegate and blow off valve, HPTuners, walbro intank fuel pump 750cc fuel injectors, MSD coil conversion, NGK spark plugs 1 step colder. Nothing fancy, no magic, straight forward build. The block was from a 1998 car and it's a 2001 year head. BASIC BUILD UP.

I'd reccommend ditching the balance shafts, nowadays.

..........................................

If you're looking for more then 450hp, start looking into GT35R and GT4088R slugs.

spyhunter · 11-27-2008, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spilner521

10's are a far cry at that power level, but with slicks and a good suspension setup, you should be able to dip into the high 11's @ 115-120ish mph. Boost control is key to running a fast time in a FWD car. You want to be able to launch hard with no wheel spin at a lower boost level and raise the boost progressively as you gain speed and traction. If everything is setup perfectly, you may even hit somewhere around 11.5 on a perfect day.

11's in an LD9 equipped n-body is within reach with a full interior at 400whp, on slicks, and a decent suspension. I should've had it but i blew my clutch and headgasket on the run that had the mph to support 11's.

NickAlero2000 · 11-27-2008, 10:23 PM

So was the 350 achieved without even touching the engine?
at what HP should I stop before building the engine?
underestimation please lol

[ion] C2 · 11-27-2008, 10:40 PM

you should build it first

250-275 crank is the limit on components usually. rods through blocks are not good things.

Cliff8928 · 11-28-2008, 01:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spyhunter

I've been through the stock clutch, a SPEC stage 3, and currently have a clutch masters twin disc setup.

How driveable is the twin disc? Is it easy to modulate with good pedal pressure?

Spilner521 · 11-28-2008, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spyhunter

An easy 400whp motor is "secret cam swap", port/polish head, ss valves, 2.3l HO intake manifold w/ an ls1 throttle body, 9.5:1 JE slugs, eagle rods, balanced bottom end, 2.3L HO crank pulley, GT30R turbo, 2.5inch downpipe, 3inch exhaust, no cat, 2.25 lower charge pipe, small intercooler, 2.5inch upper charge pipe, TiAL wastegate and blow off valve, HPTuners, walbro intank fuel pump 750cc fuel injectors, MSD coil conversion, NGK spark plugs 1 step colder. Nothing fancy, no magic, straight forward build. The block was from a 1998 car and it's a 2001 year head. BASIC BUILD UP.

Almost exactly what I'm doing with the Eco, with the exception of 8.9:1 pistons, Comp turbo grind cams, custom intake manifold using the LS1 TB, and a 3" turbo-back exhaust.

NickAlero2000 · 12-07-2008, 12:11 AM

Ok, so how hard is this to do? What exactly does it require in terms of equipment, should I remove the pan, is there a specific spot I need to tap it...etc, etc.
ANY information from the turbo guys/anyone who knows about turbo'ing the 2.4 would help!
Thanks

Spilner521 · 12-07-2008, 05:22 PM

Yes, you need to remove the oil pan. When you drill into it, you'll need to clean out all the little shavings. You can't do this with the pan still on the engine. Plus, while it's off, you can clean out all the sludge and crap coating the inside of the pan.

Drill a hole above the drain plug as high up on the pan as you can. You can either tap it and screw a fitting directly into the pan, or have a fitting welded on. Welding it would ensure that it doesn't leak. That's what I did.

NickAlero2000 · 12-07-2008, 05:24 PM

So what do I need in terms of equipment once it is tapped?
Is there a single spot on the turbo that the oil feed hooks into?
Once the hole is drilled, is it pretty straitforward?