C2's Alero Updates

[[ion] C2]

Welp, ordered:

• a 3D printer so I can make the mold and alignment plate for the engine mount
• machining services for the aluminum inserts
• high strength studs with allen key head
• liquid polyurethane mix 80A durometer

So I'll just make my own engine mount soon. Basically, I'll be able to attach each metal insert to the top and bottom of the mold, so it's in exactly the position it's supposed to be, then pour in the polyurethane through the openings.

[dbral]

Nice! It is probably a good idea to stick with the factory mounting points like you are doing there too. Yeah, no telling why GM did not put the j-body torque strut in our cars. Also too, it seems that cars with the upper dog bones like w-bodies have the engine/trans mounted low in the cradle/subframe. Guessing the factory mounts are engineered so the powertrain kinda pivots on the axle output centerline maybe. With as much power as you are putting down, you might want to hire an engineer in case you need additional supports made lol. Can't hurt to try that new mount though. Probably could sell them too. There were no R-H upper poly mounts offered for J or N cars that i could find a few years back.

LOL figured that vid. was not full send! What is up with the IAC?

[[ion] C2]

People won't even buy my rare, high end strut bar for $30 shipped on the Olds Alero Owners facebook group or Grand Am Marketplace

ain't nobody buying engine mounts haha

[[ion] C2]

Oh yeah I guess I didn't mention why I changed out the IAC valve. I stalled it hard at a light. If you let out the clutch too quick and at too low of an RPM it is harsh. When I turned it back on it would only idle at like 350-500 rpm and was quite rich. Popped the hood at our destination and noticed the IAC body was wobbly, figured that shouldn't be like that. After I turned it back on it idled at the normal 1,000.

The idle has always been hard to control, not sure why they didn't replace it the whole time it was in the shop and being dyno'd. I recall hearing it make odd clicking noises when the car was on and key off every so often.

Haven't driven it since, but hopefully that fixed it.

[[ion] C2]

[[ion] C2]

[dbral]

Wow, nice shots! How is she running?

There is word of people somehow incorporating the hardcore diesel FASS fuel filter and pick-up system for their drag cars. Supposedly it is able to fit into a stock F-body tank.

[[ion] C2]

It runs great when I have fuel. Now I'm hearing it might be end of this week that I can drop it off... really want this done ASAP so I can get video. Haven't driven it since I replaced the IAC though, hopefully it works and doesn't need any calibration. I don't want to drive it while the fuel issue exists, and I hate the vibration.

The last parts I need to pour the polyurethane mount come in today, but since I don't have an oven that can maintain 150 degrees, the cure time will be 7 days before I can install it.

It would only take 18 hours if I had a way to maintain 150 degrees. Pretty sure most toaster ovens have a minimum of 200 degrees. I need something (preferably cheap) that can also fairly accurately not exceed 150 lol.

[dbral]

Hope that the new IAC takes care of the idle issues and maybe the shop can set it up for you if need be. Guessing with a loose body like you found the pintle position would not be very accurate. Going to check for what you found on our Cavalier. Randomly the idle does something similar. Never thought to look for that.

lol there are a couple of cheap toaster ovens on amazon that have a warm function under the 200 degree setting. Probably wouldn't make any pop tarts in it afterwards though lol. Might be beneficial to let it cure over the 7 days to help remove possible air pockets maybe? Never tried what you are doing before but interested in the outcome for sure. The 5 speed driver-side block looking mount has been discontinued for ages. Would like to try and make one like you are doing.

[[ion] C2]

It's bubbly, since I don't have a vacuum chamber, but hopefully it's just superficial and on the bottom only. We'll see next Monday when I take it out.

[[ion] C2]

Lol so I reached out to an interior shop that seemed good quality, they said their interior work starts at $20,000 and up. A bit higher than I had anticipated...

[LRM88]

Very nice pictures of a great looking coupe.

[[ion] C2]

Originally Posted by LRM88

Very nice pictures of a great looking coupe.

Thanks bud

Bought a 3D scanner so I can:

• scan the entire exterior and have someone model custom bumper ideas
• scan my seats and interior and make a seat belt guide for my recaros
• scan some Volk TE37 options and see how they will fit around my brakes :O
• scan the front of the car and design a tow hook based on the attachment point

[[ion] C2]

Had a big brain idea to cure this polyurethane quicker without a dedicated oven that can hold 150 F. Sous vide.

[[ion] C2]

So it's cured and ready. I knock it out of the mold, uninstall the existing engine mount, and prepare this one for install. It looks perfect.



It's installed, and I torque the nuts to 65 ft-lb.



A few minutes later, I'm sitting in the car about to turn it on, talking on the phone.

BANG

I get out of the car and notice this new dent in the hood.



I knew immediately what happened. The studs I used were not the right material/temper, and couldn't handle the tension. The only studs I could find in the size I needed were "Class 45H". I asked the fastener company what it was comparable to, but they weren't sure. Turns out, it "very specifically applies to fasteners not under tensile stress." Other articles state "Any application of tensile stress goes against the intended use of the screw and can lead to failure." They are supposed to be used as set screws only.



I reinstalled the OEM mount for now. Ordered class 12.9 threaded rod which I'll have to cut to size. Will probably try it on the next chassis, and just keep the OEM installed for now on this car.

[[ion] C2]

Oh, and the new IAC seemed to need somewhat of a learning process. At first, when I was backing out of the garage, it wanted to idle low, 600-700. Noticed the RPMs very quickly dropped between shifts, and at the end of the first road, it shut off because when I coasted to the stop the RPMs just fell all the way down.

After I turned it back on, at the next stop sign it maintained 800+ rpm. Then the entire drive afterward it was able to successfully keep 1000 rpm at every stop I made. All good.

[dbral]

Sucks about that stud but could have been way worse if it let go while you were over top of it.

Excited about the mount you were able to make. It looks official! Great idea for consistent cure temperature too.

Good fix with the IAC and hope your project keeps moving forward

[[ion] C2]

Originally Posted by dbral

Sucks about that stud but could have been way worse if it let go while you were over top of it.

Definitely, I didn't even have safety glasses on. I put them on before removing the other nut after the one broke though. Would have been bad for the car if both broke while driving and I had no engine mount connection at all lol.

I should have the car back tomorrow and be able to get some in-car video.

[[ion] C2]

60-130
https://youtu.be/UdCHdFfh1bw

Was so focused on keeping it straight (it pulls left and right the entire time under load and is absolutely terrifying) that the 3-4 shift was suuuuper slow. I'm sure it's in the 6s with a fast shift.

Instead of having a phone mount record the video, I figured I'd do it right and have my fancy GoPro setup and external mic mounted to the seat. The GoPro inadvertently swiveled and faced the back seat before the run, capturing nothing. I figured, OK, I'll pull the dashcam footage and sync it up, but it turns out my dashcam videos are corrupt. Awesome. At least you get to hear it.

[Oldsnut]

Sounds Great!