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Old 03-23-2007, 06:25 PM   #1
holychik82
 
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how to install hubs/wheel bearings

Can someone please explain how to install the hubs/wheel bearings for a 2000 Oldsmobile Alero? Thanks for any help. I appreciate it.
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Old 03-23-2007, 07:21 PM   #2
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front or rear?
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Old 03-23-2007, 08:26 PM   #3
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if it's not addressed by tomorrow i'll bust out the camera and walk you through it with pics... although i won't rip mine off casue they can be a pain... off hand i'd say rent a hub puller from the local tool rental shop... makes life a lot easier... although it can be done without one... unless they are froze on real bad.
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Old 03-23-2007, 09:06 PM   #4
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slide hammer is very helpful as well.
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Old 03-23-2007, 09:29 PM   #5
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and a metal bar to give your ratchet's extra leverage... unless you are lucky and own a set of impacts
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Old 06-15-2007, 06:24 PM   #6
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Kinda old thread.. But I just had to replace my passenger side front wheel hub bearing. On the aleros you cant just repack the bearings like you can with some cars and trucks. Go to advance or auto zone and ask for the part. Make sure it has the ABS on it. (They should give you the right one.)

1. Jack the car up.

2. Put jack stands under it. ( if you dont know which side is bad, put your ebrake on and accelerate slowly up to about 35MPH.. then just listen and you will be able to tell which side it is.)

3. Take the wheel off

4. Take your brake calipers off

5. Take your hub nut off. ( ? part name )

6. Use a rubber mallat to beat off the rotor.

7. There are 4 other bolts that hold the hub on. You can locate them behind the rotor.

8. Put replacement hub bearing on and make sure you plug in the ABS.

9. Put everything back together.

Pretty easy fix. The part is 110 bucks tho.
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Old 06-15-2007, 09:17 PM   #7
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Hub nut size is 1 3/8" deep, 3/4" drive. Get it before you begin, and loosen it before jacking up the car (it just makes it easier)

Only 3 bolts held my hub on. - You may have to tap the driveshaft out of the hub with a mallet.
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Old 06-16-2007, 08:16 AM   #8
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Impacts FTW Took 20 minutes each in front.
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2 door 2000 Black GX With a stick: M45 eaton supercharger - Quad4's 57mm Throttle body - Custom WAI - KYB GR-2 struts - CM Lowering springs - Front and rear strut tower brace - R1 concept zinc plated drilled/slotted rotors with semi-metallic pads - short shifter.

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Originally Posted by Alerosaint View Post
the #6 bolt torque..its impossible to get...unless I use telekenesis
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Old 06-16-2007, 10:13 AM   #9
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Impacts would make a huge difference...
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Old 06-16-2007, 01:21 PM   #10
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haynes manual ftw
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Old 09-05-2007, 11:51 AM   #11
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Hey guys, I plan on knocking htis out tomorow, my question is how much easier does a hub puller make the job?
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Old 09-05-2007, 04:32 PM   #12
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mine was still stock. neither of my impacts would take that center nut off. dunno how the shop did, but i ended up takin mine to one. bolts were just too rusted/corroded to get off
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Old 09-05-2007, 07:03 PM   #13
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lol well the it looks liek i am in for4 a good time. It's a 99 and with the original hubs.
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Old 09-09-2007, 05:54 PM   #14
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Front
To Remove:


Raise and safely support the vehicle.
NOTE:The front wheel bearings are not serviced separately. If the front wheel bearings are defective, the hub and bearing assembly must be replaced.

Lubricate the threads on the halfshaft with clean engine oil.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Front wheels
Halfshaft hub nut
Caliper from the steering knuckle

Brake rotor
Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) sensor from the backing plate
Hub and bearing assembly from the backing plate
Hub and bearing assembly from the halfshaft
Hub and bearing assembly

To Install:

Install or connect the following:
Hub and bearing assembly onto the halfshaft
Hub and bearing assembly to the backing plate. Tighten the 3 bolts alternately and evenly to 70 ft lbs (95 Nm).
ABS sensor
Brake rotor
Caliper on the steering knuckle.
Halfshaft nut. Tighten it to 284 ft lbs (385 Nm) if the nut is black or 173 ft lbs (235 Nm) if the nut is gray.
Front wheel. Tighten the nuts to 100 ft lbs (140 Nm).
Lower the vehicle.

Rear With Disc Brakes

To Remove:


Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
Remove the brake rotor.
Disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever.
Disconnect the wheel speed sensor harness.
Remove the wheel hub assembly mounting bolts.
Remove the wheel hub assembly from the knuckle.
Remove the mounting bolts from the rear of the wheel hub assembly.
Remove the wheel hub assembly from the backing plate.

To Install:

Install the wheel hub assembly to the backing plate.
Install the mounting bolts to the rear of the wheel hub assembly.
Tighten the bolts to 89 in lb (10 Nm).
Install the wheel hub assembly to the knuckle.
Tighten the bolts to 70 ft lb (95 Nm).
Connect the wheel speed sensor harness.
Connect the parking brake cable to the parking brake lever.
Install the brake rotor.
Install the tire and wheel assembly.
Lower the vehicle.

With Drum Brakes


To Remove:
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the tire and wheel assemblies.


Remove the brake drum.
Disconnect the rear ABS wheel speed sensor wire connector.
Remove the bolts from the wheel bearing/hub assembly.
Remove the hub and bearing assembly from the vehicle.
To Install:

Install the wheel bearing and hub assembly on the steering knuckle.
Tighten the bolts to 62 ft lb (85 Nm).
Connect the rear ABS wheel speed sensor wire connector.
Install the brake drum.
Install the tire and wheel assembly.
Lower the vehicle.
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Old 01-08-2008, 12:21 PM   #15
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I had to replace my girlfriend's front and rear hub. thanks for the information guys. it was greatly appreciated. A couple of notes or lessons learned though; the left rear; don't forget to take off the emergency brake. It had to take off two screws in order to take off the hub. Also, use a hammer to take off the hub. This should work. As for the front, it was seized in there for life. I tried everything. I took the hammer to it because, I did not have a torche to un-seize it. I even bought a puller; no go. In the end, the hub came apart in four pieces and I had to pry it out with a flat screw driver. Careful not to damage the sleeve. It took the day to take it out and 20 minutes to put it back together. Go figure. By the way, I used an impact for everything except the top bolt (one of the three). works wonders.
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Old 01-13-2008, 07:59 PM   #16
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i finally got around to replacing my wheel bearing today and there is lock-tite all over the 3 screws and they're the tightest screws ive ever had to deal with anyways i got all but 1 out because its stripped im just waiting for my uncle to come over with a torch
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Old 01-13-2008, 08:28 PM   #17
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how did you strip it? were you using a swivel or not?
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Old 01-17-2008, 09:35 PM   #18
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you know its funny you ask if he used a swivel..if you look at a haynes manual, it says to use one....god i hate that manual...
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Old 01-17-2008, 10:24 PM   #19
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thats why i asked..you wouldnt strip it if you used one.
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