Anyone Replace 6x9's With 6 Or 8" Subs?

mike2002 · 09-30-2004, 10:55 AM

i blew 1 of my 6x9's, monsoon sound system so its the dumb dual impedance setup. anyone find any 2 ohm 6" subs out there? or 8"

or anyone know if they'd even fit if i altered the opening in the back dash? i do have a amp, but i dont want to go to all the trouble of running power wire, ground....blah blah, im not in the mood, but if i have to, i guess i will. if im running the amp, i hope 8's will fit free-air subs preferably, i thought kicker made some, but i cant find them, or maybe it was JL

im not looking for somthing loud obviously, somthing only slightly louder than oem, but still sounds good when you turn it up...

thanks

btw, the amp i have is a massive audio ca100, 650rms bridged, or 100x2, its 2ohm MONO stable, but ill probably be running it in 4ohm stereo

mike2002 · 09-30-2004, 11:02 AM

these are what im thinking so far

kicker ssmb8, 8" midbass....they're free-air, freq range from 30-500, but will they sound like a "sub" kinda like the factory's do?

http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?icatid...smb8&svbname=16

any other suggestions for free'airs? or if 8's are even possible? the cutout on these are 7.25"

smokinAMD · 09-30-2004, 11:42 AM

Thats going to sound like crap if you do it. Your going to loose a lot of sound quality if you go from a speaker to a sub.

09-30-2004, 12:47 PM

why would it sound like crap? I would think it would sound good with a nice set of components up front.

smokinAMD · 09-30-2004, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by tenny@Sep 30 2004, 10:47 AM
why would it sound like crap? I would think it would sound good with a nice set of components up front.

Because you'll loose SURROUND sound? You'll have the highs up front, but nothing in the back.

09-30-2004, 01:22 PM

put another set of 6x9s in teh back, upgrade to a better quality and if you want more bass, put a set of 10s or 12 in the trunk, if you do it right, it will not rattle and it will sound good.. if you do it wrong youll sound like a punk kid in a civic rattling everything.
its not hard, i put 2 10s in my trunk and it sounds awesome. you cant hear it outside the car, and i have plenty of bass and no ratlles

10-01-2004, 12:04 AM

couldnt you put a set of tweeters in the back though? I was also considering a similar setup to t his because I want subs but my last one I had in the cavalier someone decided they wanted it more then I did so the removed it from my trunk one night.

FormulaNERD · 10-01-2004, 12:08 AM

dont put subs on the deck, i agree with smokin and mobs. it's gonna sound like crap. do it right, replace the 6X9's and if you want more boom boom, add some subs in the trunk.

10-01-2004, 12:18 AM

i'm going to be installing my kenwood cd deck tomorrow and if I ever do the speakers, i'll probably just go with som ereally good 6x9s and 6.5's, and a 4 channel amp.

10-01-2004, 01:54 AM

get a single 18" :thumbsup:

10-01-2004, 04:06 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by mobs241@Sep 30 2004, 11:22 AM
put another set of 6x9s in teh back, upgrade to a better quality and if you want more bass, put a set of 10s or 12 in the trunk, if you do it right, it will not rattle and it will sound good.. if you do it wrong youll sound like a punk kid in a civic rattling everything.
its not hard, i put 2 10s in my trunk and it sounds awesome. you cant hear it outside the car, and i have plenty of bass and no ratlles

I don't know how you could do it "right" to not get any rattle. Rattle will depend on how much power you are pushing, and will depend on how old/new your car is. I am only pushing about 500 watts, and my car used to rattle like a sob, until I put some dynamat in the trunk. I've heard newer and different cars pushing twice my power and there isn't any rattle at all. Then again, I work with a guy that has an Alero with two 15's and a ton of power. The car sounds good from the front, but after he drives by you can't hear the bass over all of the rattling. Rattle depends on the car, not the quality of the install.

doubleN0alero · 10-01-2004, 08:34 AM

If you're going to put a tweeter back there, then why don't you just replace the 6X9's with more...why go through the hassle of installing 4 new speakers when you can do it with 2? I put 4-ways back there and it sounds alright. With the monsoon, all you have to do is run new speaker wire from the head unit back...childs play

10-01-2004, 01:16 PM

okay when i say do it right, i mean position everything right, get a good box not a cheap walmart one, dynomat and last but not least, if you buy cheap stuff its going to sound like crap, you get what you pay for. i had a poopty amp with good subs b4 in my sr5 and it sounded like crap then i upgraded the amp to a kenwood and it sounded awesome.

mike2002 · 10-01-2004, 06:54 PM

the speaker i posted isn't really a sub, its a midbass....i wouldn't try to put a actual sub in the rear deck

what i dont get is you guys say, just run the speaker wire from the deck all the way back to the speaker, im assuming this is to bypass the monsoon crossover, so i send the speaker all frequency's.....but i have a factory amp in the trunk already, so i dont think the headunit sends actual power to the 6x9's, i thought it sent the signal to the amplifier then the amp powered them

what im leaning towards is using the factory amp, running the "subwoofer" frequency's to a 6" midbass in the back dash, then picking up maybe a 3.5" speaker, running the "tweeter" frequency's to that, then making a mdf plate to mount them into the factory opening......what about that idea? the problem will be finding a 6" midbass thats 2ohms

are what you guys suggesting is get a set of regular 6x9's, put them back there and get somthing like a infinity basslink to make up for the fact that they wont have any bass anymore (because of the 4 ohm/2 ohm thing)

thanks

10-02-2004, 11:14 AM

the amp has a high level input, so basically it gets 2 wires comming in, divides it up into 2 different signals (tweeter, woofer) and sends it out, it may amplify it a very tiny bit but most of the power is provided by the deck. I'd be surprised if the amp put out more then 5 watts rms.

mike2002 · 10-02-2004, 01:09 PM

soundstream is making BI-AMPABLE 3ohm 6x9's!, 90db sensitivity, so im not sure how loud they'll be, they look they they're made for a bigger amp.....3ohms is better than 4..

also, i cant find a manual, but the old spl 69's were 2 ohm woofer, 4 ohm tweeter, so a 3ohm in/out.... maybe these are the same? it says 3 ohm SYSTEM impedance, so they sound like there the same 2/4's!!

10-02-2004, 02:31 PM

i still think 2 8" midbass in the rear deck with tweeters it would sound awesome, or even 6.5" midbass

mikegett · 10-03-2004, 03:12 PM

It depends on your taste. I prefer to have a stronger rear fill. If you look at a professional install the rear only supplys a small amount of fill leaving the larger sound to come from the front. If you look at some of the high end HU's they support your theory of mids and lows in the rear. The eclipse and alpine high end decks have three way parametric eq's that can be turned on. When activated the fronts can be set for mids and highs. The rears can be set for mids, and the sub controls the lows. So don't lett anyone tell you that it can't be done. It is done all of the time. The thing to remember is that you will need a very nice set of front speakers for it to work properly. I would suggest looking into the Focal speakers. They are expensive but well worth it. They also make a five and a quarter mid bass sub that sounds better than any 6x9 I have heard. The thing even has a larger excursion than most entry level eight inch woofers. http://www.focal-america.com/catalog/utopia/5ws.htm