Amp - Rap

Has anyone figured out a way to hook the amp up to the RAP system?

I just wired in a 4 channel amp and used the dark green wire at the ignition for the remote turn on.

The downside is that when rap is activated the radio keeps playing but you cannot hear anything because that wire does not have 12 volts anymore

You also lose the chimes for the headlights, which I dont really care about and probably would have never even thought of except that it's snowing today and was driving with them instead of the auto headlights that i'm used too.

SOooo anyone know what wire to use? I have to take it all apart again becuase I forgot to plug the antenna in so i'm trying to figure this out before I do so I can do it all at once.

I can't remember positively from my owner's manual at the moment, but RAP is retained accessory power or something like that right?

The headlight chime won't go on until you open your door I believe, so if you are sitting inside, with the key out of the ignition and the radio still playing you won't hear the chimes yet.

I'm getting ready to install my amp sometime soon (damn snow/slush today and no garage = no install) and am glad you brought this up. I was talking to a guy I know who told me GM usually uses red? orange or purple power wires.

So, he said to look for one of these color wires comming from the radio and check it with one of those light tester things (brain fart).

But, since you say you forgot to hook the antenna up, I'm thinking you have an aftermarket radio, in which case I believe power wires are usually blue/white, search the board I know its mentioned somewhere.

So, thats my suggestion (and what I am planning on doing), run it from the radio, not the ignition wire.

it's usually better to run it from the ignition wire because of current draw, can anyone else confirm its ok to run it right from the radio?

and no, I have the stock deck.

I know the chimes dont come on until you open the door, in which case the amp has no power and the chimes dont makeany noise.

jiffy,

I just read over your post and it looks like your just installing a sub and amp.

I did not install a sub, I replaced the 4 speakers iwth aftermarket ones a while ago and today amped them off the factory deck.

in your situation, when someone opens say the passenger side door with the car off, you know how your cd player keeps playing. You'll lose your subwoofer when that happens becuase your amp will turn off.

In my case, when the amp turns off I lose everything becuase all my speakers are run through the amp. Therefore I do not hear headlight chimes, or any music while i'm still in the car.

Ok, now I follow you about the chimes.

I am going to run a 4 channel amp. 2 channels bridged to the sub, and the other 2 channels to the front speakers. I was going to remove the rear speakers and use their wire to run the sub so I could fade front speaker to back sub.

Then I was going to amp my factory door speakers until I got some component speakers.

I'm going to search the board real fast, and then post a new thread to see if chimes will be lost even if you use the radio power on wire. I had never thought about losing them because of the amp.

Also, I haven't heard anything saying its better to run the power from anywhere in particular, but someone else may know more. I have heard of people running it from their sunroof and antenna as well.

you do not lose ALL chimes, you only lose the chimes telling you when you've left your headlights on.

You have to be careful where you run the remote turn on from because it draws current, so you dont want to overload a wire and blow a fuse. That's why the ignition is generally used.

I'm going to play around iwth it tomorrow and see if I can find away to get the RAP to work with my amp.

btw i wouldnt bother to remove the speakers, just unhook them. you wont notice any difference with them out.

I was going to remove them to allow more sound to come through the trunk into the cabin. Two big 6x9 holes should improve the sound inside.

Then again, why not just leave them in and see how it sounds. If I think it could get better I could always take them out then...

[mike2002]

do you have the factory monsoon system w/ the amp in the trunk?

if so, use e10/dark green off the amp as your remote turn on wire, you'll retain RAP.

i used the dark green wire from the ignition column because i replaced my HU with a aftermarket one, and im not using the a wiring harness, its hardwired, so i assume that whole harness plugging into the amp is dead, since the other end were the radio is isn't plugged into anything

Are you saying that dk green wire runs TO the monsoon amp, or it comes OFF the HU and the monsoon amp splices into it?

I don thave monsoon so I do not have that option

you wont notice any difference with the 6x9's out

[mikegett]

I have a schematic for the 03 wiring somewhere. If I recall correctly, the amp turn on comes from the ignition and not the HU. However, I think it goes through the cars CAM network. If you remove the factory HU the CAM will not send out the signal to turn on the amp. If you have the factory HU installed, it should still send the 12 volts.

If you could find that wiring diagram and scan it or explain some of it to me that would be awsome.

[mikegett]

Unfortunately, I can't find it. The easiest thing is to go to a dealership. I asked for a copy of the schematic that involved the monsoon system. Just be certain to get the one for your exacty year and model. Some have the CAM system (which the HU communicates with) and others don't. I believe all RAP systems run through the CAM. If so, you must have factory HU to keep it.

man this is really starting to tick me off, i've tried every wire and cannot find one that will work with the RAP system, I tried tapping into all the fuses on the passenger side and nothing.

I am going to try the ones on the drivers side tomorrow and see if anything in there will work. I even tried taking the rear deck off and see if the antenna one will work but there is no voltage going through that. There was another white box in there which i tried but it has power at all times, argh

any ideas on ANY wire that will work, it's bugging me know there has to be one somewhere!

[BLK03GXS]

if you have the monsoon system just test the wires in the monsoon harness... its easyer then gettin a diagram... get a wire tester... lol

I dont have the monsoon system

I was told on another forum the rap system is digital and there is no wire to make this work

There is this part that sounddomain sells, that simulates the RAP system, but it only works for a max of 60 sec I believe, and its $20.

Even if it is digital something is still getting power. I still imagine there would have to be some way to keep the RAP while amping your speakers.

[BLK03GXS]

Originally posted by tenny@Apr 5 2005, 12:13 PM
I dont have the monsoon system

I was told on another forum the rap system is digital and there is no wire to make this work

Quoted post

Regardless a $2 power tester, and less than an hours time will give you your awnser....

i've tested every wire at the radio, the fuse box, the antenna box and none of them work wtih rap.

PAC makes a device the TR-4 i believe for 10 bucks that will work with the rap system properly. I'm going to order one off ebay if I cannot find it locally.

btw, just got done a 5 hour trip to montreal for work, and had the stereo cranked the entire way, biiiiiiiiiiiig thumbs up! your goign to love yours!