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Old 08-21-2012, 02:00 PM   #1
falloutboy
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Car doesn't get hot

Hi friends of happy motoring.

I got a pity problem, our Nissan doesn't get as hot as intended. The temp gauge just hits 1/4 or moves slowly higher or lower, if at all.
First a pic of the cooling system

As you see, the car as 2 thermostats #5 and #7
and sensor #1

The cooling system has been flushed and all 3 parts were installed.
As a explanation thermostat #5 runs 180 F
and thermostat #7 runs 205 F
Why? The head runs hotter than the block -- probably emissions or the prevent carbon build up

The gauge was check by shortening / breaking up the circuit. Both resultata in the extremes hot and cold, with a warning on the head unit and a DTC

The new thermostats were checked prior installiing, work flawless

Now, tell my is the car running at 180 instead the 205 as it should

I even ran it without Thermostats and ran 180 and the gauge showed 1/4
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Old 08-21-2012, 02:09 PM   #2
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sounds like your temp sensor is bad.
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Old 08-21-2012, 03:04 PM   #3
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sounds like your temp sensor is bad.

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Old 08-21-2012, 04:14 PM   #4
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than both old and new are bad?
I don't know, don't believe in it yet
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Old 08-21-2012, 05:29 PM   #5
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It is possible to get a bad sensor right out of the box. Just happened to me.

Can you test the sensor like you tested the thermostats? Where sensor 1 goes in, is that a water pump? Is there a clog between the sensor and the actuall coolant passage?
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Old 08-21-2012, 05:46 PM   #6
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found a test chart (resistance and voltage for given temp) will try it tomorrow.

No housing #2 is just a split for the heater core and the upper radiator hose. No clog there, clean as on the first day.
I actually was pretty astonished, as the car has 100.500 km now and the internals look like new.

# 12 / 14 is the water pump
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:53 PM   #7
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Resistance is the key. If you can read that, you'll know right away.

I saw the water pump as 12/14, but I figured with 2 thermos, mabye it had 2 WP's too
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Old 08-22-2012, 02:18 AM   #8
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do'h just saw, I posted in general performance - can this be transfered to general troubleshooting
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Old 08-22-2012, 06:23 AM   #9
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Yeah it deffinitly sounds like a bad sensor (shorting and breaking circuit result in gauge extremes). Any chance where the sensor is located is trapping air? Maybe loosen sensor until water leaks by and then retighten and retest?
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Old 08-22-2012, 07:42 AM   #10
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checked the sensor today, resistance is according to specs, no matter if cold or hot.
went to my former colleague at the dealership to get the tester hooked up. Well the car only runs on block temperature, the gauge reads accurate.

The sensor is to be put in with sealant, so loosening to get an air bubble out, not quite feasible.
And the system is quite easy to burp, especially if your raise the nose high.
But I will investigate further. Any other suggestions?
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Old 08-22-2012, 09:08 AM   #11
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Quote:
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Any other suggestions?

drive it and call it a day.
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Old 08-22-2012, 09:18 AM   #12
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Not quiet an option, as the car idles a bit rough and has problems starting if it was running just for a short time.
I can't say anything about carbon build up yet, as I haven't got the time to investigate it that much.

Will try and see if I can get my hands on the Nissan Consult III tester and see for myself what is going on.

What would you do if it was an Alero that was running so "cold"
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Old 08-22-2012, 09:36 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falloutboy View Post
What would you do if it was an Alero that was running so "cold"

http://www.aleromod.com/forums/showt...&highlight=hot

i changed my temp sensor and thermostat when this occured, fixed my problem.
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He would Plasti Dip his pecker if he could.
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A girl touched my Pee Pee. So you can say things are getting pretty serious for me.
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Old 08-22-2012, 10:54 AM   #14
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well thats the problem, changed it already and well the problem is still there.
The thing is, its not really a big problem as the car is running on block temp which is 83°C. so heat and everything works, even mileage isn't obviously affected - the problem is just that the car (here the head) doesn't run as hot as it should and this will cause problems in the long run. Ok it already does as I blame this for the other issues I have with it (see above post).

If I run the car without T-stat - it just takes longer to heat up but again stays at 1/4 gauge, or 83°C
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Old 08-22-2012, 11:25 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falloutboy View Post
well thats the problem, changed it already and well the problem is still there.
The thing is, its not really a big problem as the car is running on block temp which is 83°C. so heat and everything works, even mileage isn't obviously affected - the problem is just that the car (here the head) doesn't run as hot as it should and this will cause problems in the long run. Ok it already does as I blame this for the other issues I have with it (see above post).

If I run the car without T-stat - it just takes longer to heat up but again stays at 1/4 gauge, or 83°C

thats interesting, although it is a nissan and could tend to act different then the aleros. im at a loss on what it could be really.
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Oldsnut is my Hero!
Meet Destiny, shes a 2001 Oldsmobile Alero GLS, F40 6MT swap. (#2 of 3)
2/24/14 - 200,000 miles body/motor. 22,300 on F40.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldsnut View Post
He would Plasti Dip his pecker if he could.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tipnitty View Post
A girl touched my Pee Pee. So you can say things are getting pretty serious for me.
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Old 08-22-2012, 11:30 AM   #16
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BRAND NEW THERMOSTAT STUCK OPEN... OR misaligned and not closing properly... maybe...
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Old 08-22-2012, 11:53 AM   #17
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Link should open the flow and flowchart diagram of the QR25DE engine of the Nissan Altima, its the same for this car.
Maybe someone can point to something I overlooked.

Quote:
BRAND NEW THERMOSTAT STUCK OPEN... OR misaligned and not closing properly... maybe...
Then I would have this problem all of a sudden. But this is the problem I tried to remedy.
I tested both T-stats several times, it was funny to watch
and both have a rubber grommet that fits very snug into the housing, and they can't be put in the wrong way (no space this way).

If I had a laser temp gauge I could check the temp of the upper housing maybe its getting too hot and the t-stat is opening already. but thats doubtful.

EDIT: if above link doesn't work than "save linked content" here. the charts are a few pages down.
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Old 08-22-2012, 06:45 PM   #18
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Do you have an IR thermo? I bought one to use on the Delta and I love it. In fact, I use it to see what my oven temp is, since the thermostat on that is off by about 50*

They usually aren't too expensive, and you'll use it a lot! I bought mine 6 months ago and I'm almost though my third battery

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Old 08-23-2012, 05:57 AM   #19
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nope, as I said in the post before: If I had one -- I would

As these things are, if they are capable of anything, quite expensive here .... hmm like everything else
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