01-29-2010, 06:21 PM
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#21
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ALEROMOD RAPIST
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 7,971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cherrington17
at least misery has company, eh mitch?
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Yeah... wonderful
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2008 Summer Sport Compact Slam - ET Bracket Class Event Winner
2006 NHRA Sport Compact FallNationals - ET Bracket Class Event Winner
1990 Sunoco Super Challenge Points Series - Trophy Stock Points Champion
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01-30-2010, 03:13 PM
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#22
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Aleromod part owner
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Far Northeast Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 18,199
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*UPDATE*
Today the car overheated while stopped at a light, I turned on my fan switch and blasted the heat, but there was no where to pull over so I just waited until the light changed to green. The temp gauge gave me the warning chirp and I started this stuff and it got to justbelow the red line and started to drop slowy. When I started driving again it dropped quick. I was not getting any heat until this happened
I pulled into the dealer's lot (I was going there to pick up a part) and turned off the engine. Popped the hood and the uppper hose was cool enough to touch. I could feel bubbleing inside the hose. I squeezed it and the bubbling stopped.
I drove the car home, the hottest it got was just below 1/2 way. Heat was blowing nice and hot. I parked the car and popped the hood with the engine running and air bleed the system like Nate told me. I was getting a shitload of air bubblbes then nothing but coolant for a second, then air, and this went back and forth for a few minutes then it was nothing but coolant.
I closed the petrooster and revved the motor and held it at 4000 RPM's for about 3 minutes, then stopped and let it idle, then did that again. A few times with the heat on, I few with it off. I closed the hood and did it again. The hottest it got was the neddel was at the top side but still on the mark for 1/2 way. The coolant was brownish
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33% ALEROMOD OWNER!!
2000 Olds Alero 3400 SFI 14.53 @ 94.93
1985 Olds Delta 88 307 SBO 17.96 @ 76.99
2007 Volvo V50 T5 6M 15.782 @ 89.12
www.facebook.com/kb0177
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01-30-2010, 04:07 PM
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#23
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Gone
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lockport Ny
Posts: 19,244
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brownish coolant? your limg is shot.
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01-30-2010, 04:52 PM
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#24
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GLS member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 2,733
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LIMG is an easy repair... I didn't believe it at first, but try it and see.
Takes maybe 2 hours to get it off the first time, and simple to put back together.
Costs what.. like $90 for the good LIMG? Just go for it.
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01-30-2010, 05:34 PM
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#25
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Grove, IL
Posts: 5,002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redog
The coolant was brownish
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Ouch... Hope it's not trans fluid.
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Cliff Scott
2004 Alero GX w/sport pkg - Sold, living somewhere in WI now.
2011 Saab 9-5 Turbo4 M6
2004 Corvette Convertible M6
1994 Chevy Beretta - Quad4/M5
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01-30-2010, 06:33 PM
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#26
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GL Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Grafenberg, Germany
Posts: 826
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Hi, sorry to steal thread, but can someone explain me what this "bleeder screw" is?
In what coolant line is it. And why should I bleed my system there?
Thanks
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Thanks Julian
1979 350SB Chevrolet Camaro Project Thread
1995 Chrysler Stratus LX
1999 3.4L Oldsmobile Alero ( resource page)
2002 Nissan Primera with CVT
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01-30-2010, 08:16 PM
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#27
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Aleromod's most pointless thread starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Jersey (north and south are 2 diff. states)
Posts: 2,349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falloutboy
Hi, sorry to steal thread, but can someone explain me what this "bleeder screw" is?
In what coolant line is it. And why should I bleed my system there?
Thanks
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It is the 8mm Black screw with green top on the top of the water pump.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam337
whats with all the useless threads lately?..
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New project 1992 460 big block ford notchback mustang
Goal - Mid 11s all motor.
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01-30-2010, 08:57 PM
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#28
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GL Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Grafenberg, Germany
Posts: 826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01silveralero
It is the 8mm Black screw with green top on the top of the water pump.
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as seen on the pic
But I asked WHAT it is. And what I exactly do with it.
Is is the same like bleeding the cooling system on other cars, with removing the radiator cap?
Why isnt it appropriate to just open the reservoir?
Whats the difference?
__________________
Thanks Julian
1979 350SB Chevrolet Camaro Project Thread
1995 Chrysler Stratus LX
1999 3.4L Oldsmobile Alero ( resource page)
2002 Nissan Primera with CVT
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01-30-2010, 09:01 PM
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#29
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Now a Ford Traitor.
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Greenland
Posts: 6,996
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My coolant was brown when my heads went... LIM DID NOT CAUSE BROWN COOLANT!!, if it's causing brown coolant, your oil will be white, the transfer does NOT occur that easily, get a leak tester at NAPA, test for combustion gases in the coolant, 100% it's heads
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03-01-2010, 10:34 AM
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#30
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GLS member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Baltimore, MD USA
Posts: 5,529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a4d2a0m
I had a similar prob in my grand am... after searcing it was a tiny hairline crack on the fenderside of the reservoir. just below the seam.
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How can I inspect for this? Do I have to remove it?
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03-01-2010, 01:37 PM
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#31
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Aleromod's most pointless thread starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Jersey (north and south are 2 diff. states)
Posts: 2,349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate's Alero
My coolant was brown when my heads went... LIM DID NOT CAUSE BROWN COOLANT!!, if it's causing brown coolant, your oil will be white, the transfer does NOT occur that easily, get a leak tester at NAPA, test for combustion gases in the coolant, 100% it's heads
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agreed its the heads.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam337
whats with all the useless threads lately?..
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New project 1992 460 big block ford notchback mustang
Goal - Mid 11s all motor.
Last edited by 01silveralero : 03-01-2010 at 01:38 PM.
Reason: yes i realize this is an old post
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03-01-2010, 01:42 PM
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#32
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Now a Ford Traitor.
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Greenland
Posts: 6,996
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i know, i just did them.... which i must say, WHAT A DIFFERENCE, i have had no issues, not a drop of coolant lost and the power is immensely better
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03-01-2010, 04:00 PM
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#33
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GLS member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 2,733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falloutboy
as seen on the pic
But I asked WHAT it is. And what I exactly do with it.
Is is the same like bleeding the cooling system on other cars, with removing the radiator cap?
Why isnt it appropriate to just open the reservoir?
Whats the difference?
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Yea it's basically the same deal, but IIRC the Alero doesn't have a rad cap, so it needs this.. open it up, wait for a steady stream of coolant/ no bubbles and all the air should be out.
This is directly in the coolant stream, it probably just does a better job than opening the res cap
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03-01-2010, 04:02 PM
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#34
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Now a Ford Traitor.
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Greenland
Posts: 6,996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clutch1
Yea it's basically the same deal, but IIRC the Alero doesn't have a rad cap, so it needs this.. open it up, wait for a steady stream of coolant/ no bubbles and all the air should be out.
This is directly in the coolant stream, it probably just does a better job than opening the res cap
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but the LD9 and Eco don't have a bleeder, all the air will work itself out eventually, but thankfully the 3400 does have a bleeder screw
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03-01-2010, 04:36 PM
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#35
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GL Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Toledo, Ohio
Posts: 397
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Redog it's your head gaskets.
I am surprised that the people who post here most often seem to be the least informed mechanically about their cars.
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03-04-2010, 09:30 PM
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#36
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GL Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Illinois
Posts: 604
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Frustrated.
nvm
Last edited by Chris2000 : 03-04-2010 at 10:18 PM.
Reason: nvm
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