Heater blowin cold air

AGT · 03-02-2010, 01:38 PM

It used to be great then it got cold unless I was moving and now its cold even when i am accelerating...any ideas? Heater core block, bleed the cooling system, or maybe thermostat?

alerogls001 · 03-02-2010, 01:43 PM

Only time that's happened to me was when it would get low due to LIMG leak. Been fine since it was replaced...

IRONDOG442 · 03-02-2010, 01:52 PM

prolly thermostat

AGT · 03-02-2010, 01:53 PM

Low coolant once. Added some which made the heat work better but now nothing

Nate's Alero · 03-02-2010, 02:01 PM

engine?

Redog · 03-02-2010, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alerogls001

Only time that's happened to me was when it would get low due to LIMG leak. Been fine since it was replaced...

Yeah just happened to me, now it's "hawt" in my car, yo!!

jayson_waltz · 03-02-2010, 03:23 PM

gonna say thermostat not opening, which would not allow any hot coolant into your heater core.

Nate's Alero · 03-02-2010, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jayson_waltz

gonna say thermostat not opening, which would not allow any hot coolant into your heater core.

incorrect, the bypass on all engines is linked to the heater core

99alerogirl · 03-02-2010, 03:29 PM

this happened to me when i had a coolant leak... check all your hose connections, one of my plastic couplers was shattered and leaking coolant pretty quickly. but you said you have the proper amount of coolant? if so then disregard =)

AGT · 03-02-2010, 04:05 PM

Coolant is getting low. Dear God please not a water pump

99alerogirl · 03-02-2010, 05:50 PM

if you have the V6, check the driver's side hoses and where they connect... there are a couple plastic couplers there and mine shattered during the winter due to temperature change... and it caused me to lose heat and (obviously) leak coolant. slapped a hose clamp on there and called it a day!

Nate's Alero · 03-02-2010, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 99alerogirl

if you have the V6, check the driver's side hoses and where they connect... there are a couple plastic couplers there and mine shattered during the winter due to temperature change... and it caused me to lose heat and (obviously) leak coolant. slapped a hose clamp on there and called it a day!

those quick disconnects seem so pointless, mine broke when i did my heads

jayson_waltz · 03-02-2010, 11:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nate's Alero

incorrect, the bypass on all engines is linked to the heater core

must be a gm thing or just newer cars in general then.

AGT · 03-03-2010, 09:17 AM

Thanks all I am gonna check the connections and the pump pulley for leaks. Its dumping a pretty good amount of coolant on the ground.

AGT · 03-03-2010, 03:08 PM

Turns out it was air in stuck in the heater core. ran until warm and let the fill cap off. Bubbles appeared and then heat came back

surreal_awakening · 03-03-2010, 10:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AGT

Its dumping a pretty good amount of coolant on the ground.

Quote:

Originally Posted by AGT

Turns out it was air in stuck in the heater core. ran until warm and let the fill cap off. Bubbles appeared and then heat came back

Ok....I have to say this doesn't sound right to me. Dumping a pretty good amount of coolant on the ground because there was air stuck in the line? My guess is that there was air stuck in the line because it was dumping coolant. And if we are talking about the v6, leaving the fill cap off (your reservoir I assume?) is not how you bleed the coolant system. There is a bleeder screw for that.

Now, if you have a 4-banger, someone else will have to comment, as I'm unfamiliar with them. I didn't see where you specified the engine.

AGT · 03-04-2010, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by surreal_awakening

Ok....I have to say this doesn't sound right to me. Dumping a pretty good amount of coolant on the ground because there was air stuck in the line? My guess is that there was air stuck in the line because it was dumping coolant. And if we are talking about the v6, leaving the fill cap off (your reservoir I assume?) is not how you bleed the coolant system. There is a bleeder screw for that.

Now, if you have a 4-banger, someone else will have to comment, as I'm unfamiliar with them. I didn't see where you specified the engine.

True but air did come out the tank. Heat came back and I think some of what I thought was coolant may have been the previous cars mess. I was in my work parking lot and saw fluid after lunch. Bleeder screw is by the thermo housing correct?

Nate's Alero · 03-04-2010, 10:50 AM

dude, you NEED to tell us what goddamn engine!

AGT · 03-04-2010, 11:10 AM

Sorry nate...I have the 6

Runaboveit · 03-05-2010, 12:18 AM

I was having the same problem. Would only get hot when on the freeway or at a steady engine load. Turned out there wasn't a thermostat in the car (this was shortly after I bought it and was checking everything out). Put a thermostat in, and the heat was good. A week later it started doing the same thing and I would hear a gurgling sound under the passenger side after the car was off. Air pockets were in the system.

Before I had time to work on it, the air in the heater core I'm guessing became acidic with the dexcool coolant and the heater core took a dump and started leaking coolant everywhere. Bought some 5/8 heater hose and bypassed the heater core. Actually bought a new heater core and heater core hoses along with two of those plastic quick connectors but never got around to fixing it and ending up returning it all. With the connectors, hoses, clamps, and heater core it all came to about $130 for the parts.

Anyway, thats my story.

Had I known how to bleed the system I would probably still have heat right now. Always learning something new. But the bleeder screw is on the front left of the engine (as if you open the hood and are looking down on the engine. look to the left front). You will see the long black pipe that runs across the front of the engine.. follow that to the left by the water pump and you will see a brass colored nut and screw looking thing. From what I have read, you have to hold the bottom part of it still while turning the top part of it to open it. I have read some people say to do it with the car on or off. I would think the best way to do it is while the car is cold or has been sitting for a few hours. Start it up and then open that top part of the valve/screw and wait until a steady stream of coolant is coming out and then close it. And you should be turning it counter clockwise if I'm not mistaken. Lefty loosey righty tighty lol. Just don't tighten it down too much and be careful because brass is a soft metal prone to distorting under too much pressure.

Anyway. It's been covered on here before along with pics.... something should turn up in a search for it on here. Otherwise somebody will come along and post a pic I'm sure...

Anyway.. good luck!