Free-air subs

Cyber Knight · 01-12-2004, 05:29 PM

Just curious if anyone else has tried a free-air set up for their subs. I got hooked on free-air subs in my first car (pair of 12s), the next car was a hatchback so I had to use a box (sealed, with a 12), but now that I have a trunk again I figured I'd start with a simple pair of free-air 12s. They pound hard enuf to shake all my mirrors and it can be heard outside for a good distance (no cruddy trunk rattles outside the car either). The sound quality is really nice too. I honestly can't see me ever going with a box for my subs. It's a very simple set up and I still have ALL my trunk space.

Pimpalero03 · 01-12-2004, 05:54 PM

Cyber Knight · 01-12-2004, 06:04 PM

I'll hafta refer you to my web site for pics (middle of the page for day pics, bottom for night). I have since replaced the amp with a slightly better one, but the set up is still the same. Click here!

sound_xtreme · 01-13-2004, 01:21 AM

hahah, shakers.

Cyber Knight · 01-13-2004, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by sound_xtreme@Jan 13 2004, 06:21 AM
hahah, shakers.

Yeah, what a great name brand, sounds real high quality don't it. I've since put new labels that I designed on the dust caps, they are now my own brand of subs, 'Boomin' Bastards', haha B)

01-14-2004, 05:01 PM

do you have the plywood the subs are drilled to attached any way? or just pressed between the seat and that top and bottom edge of the trunk?

what's the specs on the subs?

Cyber Knight · 01-14-2004, 05:39 PM

They're mounted in 3/4" MDF. They have a foam seal around them to keep the wood from rattling against the plastic, but it's not fastened against it, just leans there, this way if I ever need to haul something big and need the trunk and back seat space I can remove the system very easily. There is a spacer at the bottom to keep them from pressing up against the seats so the subs have room to breathe. The only specs I have is they handle 300W and cost $18 each. I put them in just to see how long a cheap system would last. My first amp was blown when I picked up my car from an oil change at the dealership where I bought my car, of course they insisted that no one was messing around with it. I'm on my second amp now, I've had it for almost a year. I've had the subs for 2.5 years now. I'm glad I didn't spend $3000 on a system that wouldn't sound THAT much better. Even if it sounded twice as good I would have spent 15 times as much.

BLK03GXS · 01-14-2004, 06:08 PM

Idealy you have the front and the back of the sub isolated.. so the front should be sealed from the back, this is called free air or an infinate baffle type of enclosure.
With this type of enclosure you'll get optimum performance if the sound wave caused by the front of the sub never can interact with the wave caused by the back, if this happens however they will cancel eachother out resulting in no output...
the best thing about free air or infinate baffle systems is that you get to retain your trunk, they are really easy to install, and no enclosure is needed..
On the downside powerhandeling is kept to a minimum, and thus SPL output is limited...
But if you like clean hitting bass this is deffinatly an option.

I dont know about the specks for teh subs.. but they look like some badd arse bumpin machines :thumbsup: lol

Cyber Knight · 01-14-2004, 06:14 PM

I do have small gaps at the side, especially near the bottom. I wonder if sealing those up would make a noticeable difference. Thanks for the tech details on how free-air set ups work, that's good to know.

BLK03GXS · 01-14-2004, 06:38 PM

yes it prolly would... also dont forget the parcel shelf, idealy that should be sealed as well.. could result in some gains B) lol

04-30-2005, 01:17 PM

hey i'm lookin at doing a free air setup in my 00 alero. Anyone know a good way to seal off the rear deck so i dont' get bass cancellation?