NEVER NEVER NEVER use fuse taps. They will strecth out the contacts in the fuse box and cause problems, in the long run. If you were to ever remove the fuse tap, the fuse can lose contact and cause problems with what ever else is on that cicuit in the car.
EVERYtime I have pulled a fuse tap out, the fuse box has been damaged because of it, in the way I decribed above.
The only way to do this properly is to tap into a wire. There are several ways to do this.
If you want it to work on ACC, then I would suggest going to the ignition switch and tapping into the ACC wire ther (larger brown). Use an inline fuse for vehicle protection, just in case anything happens.
In most cases I usually go to the heater controls, there is a wire there that works on in the on position and is generally right above or below the radio.
The only "problem" with this is that the radio will not be powered up in the ACC postion.
Oh BTW, always solder and tape when tapping into a wire.
I will make a suggestion on an alternate idea though.
Take the relocation harness back and get a chime module, there are a few manufacturers, Metra, Sound gate, etc. This unit is a module that plugs into the harness, creates an acc output so that you don't have to run another wire to the ignition switch, AND keeps a chime, without retaining the OEM radio and taking up valuable trunk space.
Install time goes down by at least 30 minutes, possibly more if this is one of your first installs, and quickly reversable.
Only "draw back" is that they usually cost twice to three times as much as the relocation harness, but I feel the benefits out weigh the draw backs.
, but you would still be finding water, not nessisarily the stream. 
Linear Mode
