Front Sway Bar Cracked

[Beholder88]

Well, my baby just failed inspection. The front sway bar is cracked. I'm picking one up today for $70. Anyone know how hard it is to change one of these?

[surreal_awakening]

The front one is the tough one. Have to loosen the bolts on the engine cradle and let the back of it drop down in order to remove/replace the bar as I understand it.

[lonnie]

Damn that is a detailed inspection. Thats good if you got the cash to replace everything that is wrong, but sucks if you don't.

[Beholder88]

From what the mechanic told me, the bushings are fine. I just need to get the bar out of there without damaging anything. Anyone have a blow-up of the front suspension?

[Cliff8928]

Man, I have my stock one just sitting in the corner... Probably a few other people have them lying around.

[Blktrax]

Did you get shown the problem, I have a hard time believeing the bar is cracked. The endlinks are much weaker than the bar and would be far more likely to fail. Im wondering since the OE bar is powder coated, that he just didn't see teh podercoating peeling off. Unless your car is just slam rusted out underneith. If it were broken you would have very excessive body roll, or one hell of a noise as the weight of the car shifter side to side during cornering.

There isnt an entire front end diagram, just in sub sections.

[clutch1]

Originally Posted by Blktrax

Did you get shown the problem, I have a hard time believeing the bar is cracked.

Water and grit get trapped in the inner bushing which wears away the podwercoating and so forth.. leading to rust, leading to a broken sway bar. My buddy's GrandAm had the same problem, broke right at the bushing.

I can't believe you need a swaybar to pass inspection.. I disconnected the ones on the Buick to hit sides better

[Blktrax]

Thats a first for me, I'm so glad I moved out of the rust belt.

Also I cant believe they caught it.

[Beholder88]

I already got the swaybar from the junkyard today. It's in pretty good condition. I see what you mean about rusting where the bushings are, there is a little bit on the one I picked up. I can't wait to get under my car and find what he was talking about. It better be something glaring out at me or I'll be pissed. I don't think it will be that bad to change out, shouldn't take more than a few hours and a few beers.

[Vic28]

I had to replace mine, it broke too... I got the solid one instead of the hollow one.

[RisenequinoX]

ohio doesnt even have an inspection.... -_-

lol

[SittinOnChrome]

Originally Posted by RisenequinoX

ohio doesnt even have an inspection.... -_-

lol

Some counties in Ohio do just not mahoning

[RisenequinoX]

wonderful isnt it?

[brianl]

Stabilizer Shaft Replacement
Removal Procedure
Raise and support the vehicle, allowing the front suspension to hang free.
Remove the front tire and wheel assemblies.
Remove the stabilizer shaft links.
Remove the tie rods from the steering knuckles .
Remove the bolt from the rear transmission mount.
Remove the power steering line bracket from the suspension crossmember.
Remove the bolts from the clamps attaching the stabilizer shaft to the crossmember.
Support the rear of the crossmember with an adjustable jack stand.
Remove the control arm to body bolts.
Loosen the front bolts on the crossmember.
Remove the rear crossmember to body bolts.
Lower the crossmember three inches by adjusting the jack stands down.
Remove the stabilizer shaft from the vehicle.
Installation Procedure
Install the stabilizer shaft to the vehicle.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Install the front crossmember bolts.
Tighten the front crossmember bolts to 245 N·m (180 lb ft).
Install the control arm to body bolts.
Tighten the control arm to body bolts to 245 N·m (180 lb ft).
Install the rear crossmember body bolts.
Tighten the rear crossmember bolts to 70 N·m (52 lb ft).
Install the clamps and the bolts to the stabilizer shaft.
Tighten the bolts to 66 N·m (49 lb ft).
Install the power steering line bracket to the suspension crossmember.
Install the bolt to the rear transmission mount.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 120 N·m (89 lb ft).
Install the tie rods to the steering knuckles. Refer to Rack and Pinion Outer Tie Rod End Replacement in Power Steering System.
Install the stabilizer shaft links.
Install the tire and wheel assemblies.
Lower the vehicle.

[Beholder88]

Damn, that's a mighty lengthy procedure. I hope I can find an easier way to get it done. I'll find out tomorrow I guess.

[Cliff8928]

Hmm. I don't remember doing all that when I changed mine. I didn't even pull off the wheels.

[Beholder88]

I fixed it today. I wouldn't have had to take the wheels off, but it's much easier to get to the end links that way. The passenger side where the end of the "tube" is clamped and the hole is punched for the link was cracked. The whole bottom half fell off when I unbolted the end link. Took me and a friend about 3 solid hours of work to swap it out with the junkyard one I got. I have a picture of the broken one, I'll post it later.

[Beholder88]

Here's the picture I took of the end of the sway bar.

[Blktrax]

All I got is.... WOW.

[Cliff8928]

Wow, I'm sure it handles a ton better now.