03-23-2012, 05:03 PM
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#1
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GX Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 25
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Help with radiator replacement
I am going to replace the radiator in my Alero 3400 and the Haynes book says to remove the radiator/condensor/fans as a unit....
Is it possible to remove the radiator without removing/disconnecting the air conditioning system?
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03-25-2012, 04:02 PM
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#2
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Its Beer Thirty
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Goodyear, AZ
Posts: 1,259
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Drop it out the bottom. Just unbolt the condensor from the radiator and drop the radiator support.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daytona
And, yeah, I try to keep my expectations & standards really low. That's the only way to guarantee that I'll always exceed them.  |
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03-25-2012, 04:26 PM
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#3
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636 whp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 11,876
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The condenser was a bitch to disconnect
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03-25-2012, 05:16 PM
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#4
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GLS member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: indy
Posts: 8,411
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hahahahaha nice picture
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S. . .L. . . E . . .E. . .P. . .Y. . .IS A TRAITOR--HE GOT BORED SO HE SOLD ME AFTER HAVING AN AFFAIR WITH A RICE ROCKET
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Meet Destiny, shes a 2001 Oldsmobile Alero GLS, F40 6MT swap. (#2 of 3)
2/24/14 - 200,000 miles body/motor. 22,300 on F40.
Quote:
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He would Plasti Dip his pecker if he could.
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Originally Posted by tipnitty
A girl touched my Pee Pee. So you can say things are getting pretty serious for me.
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03-25-2012, 05:48 PM
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#5
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Premier V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,979
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it aint that bad to disconnect. idk what your complaining about.
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The dumbass that shows up randomly 10 years after selling the car.
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03-25-2012, 07:53 PM
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#6
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GX Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 25
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Thanks, Ill definitely try to drop the radiator without disconnecting the condenser. Even if its a PITA it will be worth not touching my AC. Ive had the car since Nov 2000 and never had any issues with the AC and I dont want to bother with it, it still works great.
It seems like it was about 4 years ago it just started running warm and overheated a few times in the summer. The overflow bottle was cracked and then I found out the LIM was bad. Dont know what caused what first but I did the LIM and everthing was good except it still runs warm to overheating in the summer but fine in the winter and no loss of coolant anywhere so I thought this year I would try seeing if replacing the radiator would help. Dont know what else it could be. The fans seem to be working fine too.
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03-25-2012, 09:26 PM
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#7
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Its Beer Thirty
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Goodyear, AZ
Posts: 1,259
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Just take the fans out, pull the upper radiator mounts and lean the radiator and condenser toward the engine and unbolt the condenser from the radiator. You may be able to pull it from the top but the last two I did I pulled from the bottom with ease. Ever change the t stat? I would do that before I changed the radiator. I have an 11 year old radiator thats still doing just fine.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daytona
And, yeah, I try to keep my expectations & standards really low. That's the only way to guarantee that I'll always exceed them. |
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03-25-2012, 09:31 PM
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#8
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3500 DONE!
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 5,915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a.graham52
it aint that bad to disconnect. idk what your complaining about.
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x2. Cake
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2002 3400 & 3500 GL "Ruby"-->R.I.P. 163k. My first car. Put 130k on her.
2000 3500 GLS "Robin"-->Intake,Headers,Exhaust,H&R springs,KYB AGX,Sway bars,Strut bars and more 
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03-25-2012, 10:35 PM
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#9
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GX Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 25
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I changed the tstat when I did the LIM about 3-4 years ago. Sounds like it wont be a big deal to do this just might have to wait this next weekend. I do already have the new radiator so Im going to rule that out.
Thanks for the input!
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03-27-2012, 12:26 AM
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#10
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Its Beer Thirty
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Goodyear, AZ
Posts: 1,259
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Let us know how it works out for you. Hopefully that will fix your issue.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daytona
And, yeah, I try to keep my expectations & standards really low. That's the only way to guarantee that I'll always exceed them. |
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03-27-2012, 12:31 PM
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#11
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GLS member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Baltimore, MD USA
Posts: 5,529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GL2Alero
Thanks, Ill definitely try to drop the radiator without disconnecting the condenser. Even if its a PITA it will be worth not touching my AC.
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04-07-2012, 08:39 PM
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#12
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GX Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 25
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Ok, I got the radiator replaced today and it was a little bit of a pain but very doable without removing or disconnecting the AC condenser so I'm very happy about that.
I believe I found the reason why it runs hot in the hot weather. The top half of the front of the radiator was covered in dirt and lint and everything else preventing good air flow. This was the 1/4 in area between the radiator and the condenser so I couldn't see it until I had it out. I put the new radiator even though this one is probably still OK if it was cleaned up.
Will have to wait for some warm days to see how well it does but right now it is running and no leaks.
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04-08-2012, 07:00 PM
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#13
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Premier V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,979
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ow man
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The dumbass that shows up randomly 10 years after selling the car.
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05-27-2012, 12:28 AM
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#14
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GX Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 25
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Just an update since it has been a few months. The car has been running great and not one hint of running hot. We have had a few 90+ days so far and I have been climbing hills and in stop and go traffic and the hottest the needle has been is a smidge below the half mark so I am positive that the radiator was why it was running hot.
And now even the AC is colder!!! 160,000 miles and just as happy as ever.
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05-27-2012, 01:01 AM
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#15
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GLS member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Indiana
Posts: 3,201
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Best news ever.. Imma need to drop my rad it looks like...
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The number one official sedan hater
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